A few weeks ago I came across one of the best values in red wine I have encountered in a long time, and it seems this week I am bringing you its mate in the white wine category. What do I look for in a value white wine? Something that has enough complexity to warrant sipping on its own and something that pairs well with food.
Caves Plaimont has managed to meet both of these criteria with a wine they call "Colombelle" which is a play on the primary varietal used in the wine, Colombard. For many, including myself, this varietal, as well as its homeland, Gascony, France are off the beaten path and relatively unknown.
Gascony is a region situated equidistant from the Pyrénées and the Atlantic ocean in the southwestern-most corner of France, a hop skip and jump away from the Basque region of Spain. Indeed "Gascon" and "Basque" share the same etymological history, just as their peoples share the same background and ethnicity, as well as similar structures in local dialects. Gers, where Caves Plaimont makes its home, is one of several districts in the mostly agricultural region, famous for its Pate de Foie Gras and wild mushrooms.
Colombard as a varietal may conjure up mixed emotions for some who pay particular attention to viticultural statistics in California. At one point it was (and may still be, for all I know) the most widely planted grape in the state. How can this be, especially when you probably haven't heard of it before? Think about that box wine sitting in your grandparent's refrigerator. This slightly sweet white varietal is an incredibly common blending grape used (along with juice from Thompson's Seedless) to make nearly every crappy white wine (a.k.a. Chablis in this backward country) and blush wine that has ever been vacuum sealed for $3.99.
Don't let the domestic abuse of the varietal turn you off, though. It has been grown in the Southwest of France for many years and is prized for its sharp acidity and aromatics. Usually blended with other varietals like Petit Courbu, Gros Manseng, and Listan, it plays a significant role in the region's white wines.
For Caves Plaimont, one of the larger negociant winemakers in the region, Colombard has served as the inspiration for one of their "value wines." Plaimont makes around 12 different wines under several different labels using fruit from nearly one thousand different growers in the region. They are a highly commercial operation, but don't let that stop you from appreciating their wine, which is still hand harvested and subject to reduced yields before it enters their modern production facility.
I don't know much about the winemaking for this wine but I can hazard a guess. It probably was fermented in stainless steel and may have spent no more that 6 months in French Oak before being bottled and sent off into the world. It is labeled Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne, which means that the fruit comes from various areas in the Gascony and it cannot be labeled with a particular appellation.
Pale, light gold in the glass this wine has a pleasant nose filled with aromas of green apples wet stones, old parchment, and a hint of mint. In the mouth it has primary flavors of pears and apples with a decent amount of acidity. It is balanced well until the finish, which while being lengthy, has a slightly hot end to it which marred an very good overall performance.
This is one of those drink with anything white wines, that could easily be just the bottle that you keep in the fridge for when you want something refreshing to drink. I'd say it would go well with this cream of cauliflower soup that has a hint of saffron.
Overall Score: 8.5
How much?: $6
This wine is available from several Internet merchants. Find one in your area.
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. 2015 Roederer Award Winner.Learn more.
I'll Drink to That: Bob Cabral of Three Sticks Wines Warm Up: Rotgipfler and Beyond I'll Drink to That: Bernhard Stadlmann of Weingut Stadlmann Vinography Images: Last Light I'll Drink to That: Suzanne Mustacich Warm Up: The Douro I'll Drink to That: João Nicolau de Almeida of Ramos-Pinto Book Signing in St. Helena, December 5, 2015 I'll Drink to That: Carole Meredith of Lagier-Meredith Vineyards Napa's New Reference Point
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune