Various reports and editorials lately have mused at the backlash against over-oaked wines, particularly Chardonnay. While I had no doubt that this was the case, and was even thankful for it, the real proof of the decline is what's happening to the American Oak market: it's collapsing. Or nearly. Oeneo corporation, one of the largest of America's handful of manufacturers of oak barrels has had to sell its American oak cooperage facility at a loss, after losing nearly 2 million dollars in the last couple of years.
In addition to the reduction in demand for American Oak barrels, which impart stronger wood flavors than their French counterparts, the American Oak market has been under increasing competitive pressure from the French who are now even setting up American companies to distribute their wares.
While this state of affairs undoubtedly means hard times for some people, which you never wish for, I can't say I'm particularly bummed out by the trend which it seems to signal. Very few winemakers know how to use American oak well, and for the rest, it ends up churning out wines that often have the "buttered plank" taste that so many people unknowingly tolerate and even love.
There will not be much mourning here. Here's the news story about Oeneo.
I know there are winemakers who read this site. What do you think?
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.
Vinography Images: Cold Snap Cincinnati Here I Come! Happy Thanksgiving from Vinography Vinography Unboxed: Week of November 23, 2014 Putting a Cork in Your Thanksgiving Wine Anxiety Plumbing the Depths of Portugal: A Tasting Journey Vinography Images: Rain at Last The Mysterious Art of Selling Direct Critical Consolidation in Wine What Has California Got Against Wineries?
Masuizumi Junmai Daiginjo, Toyama Prefecture Wine.Com Gives Retailers (and Consumers) the Finger 1961 Hospices de Beaune Emile Chandesais, Burgundy Wine Over Time The Better Half of My Palate 1999 KirÃ¡lyudvar "Lapis" Tokaji Furmint, Hungary What's Allowed in Your Wine and Winemaking Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Appreciating Wine in Context The Soul vs. The Market 1989 Fiorano Botte 48 Semillion,Italy