I don't have a lot of room or patience for aging wines. I tuck a few bottles away for a few years, but I'm not a collector bent on enjoying my wines for decades. I drink most of what I buy within 5 or 6 years. That's especially true for white wines, which I tend to consume in the first 3 or 4 years of their lifespan. I have recently started putting away an occasional white Burgundy or Chenin Blanc just to see what time does to these bottles.
It looks like it's a good thing I didn't start with 1996 White Burgundies. In what appears to be a spookily consistent manner, like one species of fish starting to wash up on the shore, 1996 White Burgundies are dying by the case.
You know this has to be pretty widespread for it to be considered a real phenomenon instead of isolated cases of poor cellarage by less than competent retailers, restaurateurs, and collectors. No, thanks to Michael Steinberger and Slate Magazine, I've learned that this is really some sort of epidemic.
People are even doing recalls of the wine for refunds. The odd thing is, that now I really have a hankering for 1996 White Burgundy. Perhaps that's just the wine equivalent of the tendency that makes us actually take a morsel of food proffered by a friend with the exclamation "oh, gosh, this is awful. Try it..."
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.
Wine and Beauty Explained San Francisco's Lost Sommeliers Finding Pirate Treasure With a Corkscrew Vinography Unboxed: Week of March 1, 2015 Vinography Images: Sonoma Spring Siduri Wines: Rewarding the Search for Flavor Vinography Unboxed: Week of February 22, 2015 Vinography Images: Frost and Fog The Glory of 2013 Napa Cabernet: Tasting Premiere Napa Valley A Dose of Claret: Visiting With 2010 Bordeaux
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune