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12.03.2010

Book Review: Secrets of the Sommeliers by Rajat Parr and Jordan MacKay

cover_parr.jpgReview by Tim Patterson.

Secrets of the Sommeliers, a collaboration between Rajat Parr, wine director for the Michael Mina group of restaurants in San Francisco, and wine writer Jordan Mackay, carries the sub-title, "How to think and drink like the world's top wine professionals."

Enticing as that sounds, and interesting as the book is, by the end, I wasn't entirely sure I was up to either task.

The world of the upscale restaurant sommelier is a rarified place, populated by razor-sharp palates honed through years of diligent practice, access to tasting an astonishing range of wines most of us never see and can't afford, and after-hours gatherings of fellow somms arriving with thousands of dollars worth of mystery wines to slurp and identify in blind taste-offs. The day job is plenty demanding, requiring sommeliers to manage complicated inventories, deal with an endless string of winery and distributor reps, think on their feet, read customer's minds, and gently negotiate with high-rollers who want to order expensive wine that couldn't possibly match their food.

While a number of nationally-known sommeliers get quoted here and there in the book, this is mostly about the drinking and thinking of Rajat Parr, a superstar in the world of fine wine buying and service. (Co-author Mackay may be responsible for most of the prose, but the opinions are clearly Parr's.) From the unlikely starting point of a childhood in Calcutta, Parr made his way to the Culinary Institute of America in New York, quickly demonstrating an amazing palate. Armed mostly with determination, he went to San Francisco and talked his way into a position working with Larry Stone, wine director at Rubicon, and his career took off: from Rubicon to the Fifth Floor, and then to Michael Mina's expanding restaurant empire, including most recently the wine-themed RN74, which has Parr's personal stamp all over it.

Up front, we are introduced to Parr through an episode one evening at restaurant Michael Mina, when a couple came in with a special bottle in a paper bag and asked Parr to identify it. He tried to beg off because of a lingering cold. The customers insisted, and so with only a sniff, he correctly called it as a Volnay Premier Cru Burgundy, and after one sip, as a 1998. As it turned out, he also had the producer in his head, though the bottle was revealed before he spoke. As the book suggests, just imagine what Parr might be like with his full game on.

Credentials established, the book moves through the world of the sommelier from almost every angle: the development of the role historically, capsules on modern-day pioneer sommeliers who redefined the profession and fine wine lists, service essentials, storage and serving temperatures, buying strategies and tasting notes. Some sections are fairly predictable -- the discussion of buying wine at auctions, for example, boils down to "look for the deals other people miss." Some, like the short, pithy section on wine and food pairing, are fresh and insightful. Parr draws some nifty distinctions between different preparations of the same chunk of protein, and offers a promising solution to the age-old riddle of what goes with soup and with fried foods: Champagne.

A central focus is on how to taste, and how to get better at tasting. As you might expect, rigorous practice is the key, and the more years of it the better. In case you thought this would be easy, Parr suggests drinking only one kind of wine for a month or two, in all price ranges, from every region, until that grape's character is burned into your head; and then pick another one. His suggestions of iconic and benchmark wines that define certain grapes and regions sound right on the money to me, with an emphasis on the money part: many of the listed bottles -- great Burgundies and Bordeaux, for example -- carry a bottle cost higher than most people's idea of a good case price.

Parr is a strong advocate of blind tasting, arguing that it's essential to developing a great palate and palate memory, and the book contains a number of accounts of tension-filled moments before the brown bags are removed. His passion for this approach makes for an interesting contrast with recent books by Terry Thiese (Reading Between the Wines) and Matt Kramer (Matt Kramer on Wine), both of which contain rants against the practice, arguing instead that the contents of a bottle can't be fully appreciated without the knowing the context -- the place, the traditions, and preferably the winegrower.

The final third of the book is simply called "The Wine List," Parr's admittedly very personal overview of his favorite regions, styles, and producers. Calling the list Burgundy-centric would be an understatement: while California gets three pages, Germany two, and New Zealand two paragraphs, Burgundy gets 26 pages. Vosne-Romanée, home of the fabled Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, commands four pages, compared to the two for all of Italy. Australia, Chile, Argentina are nowhere to be seen.

The wine list pages include some tips on relative bargains, and some rather blunt critiques of certain developments and specific producers; the Northern Rhône section, has less than kind words for Jaboulet and Chapoutier. Most remarkable is the dismissal of the wines of Bordeaux -- all of Bordeaux -- in two short paragraphs. Parr admits to bang quite fond of classic vintages bottled before he was born, but finds the current wines "commoditized and soulless." Part of the problem seems to be that Bordeaux producers don't do vineyard tours, they just talk business; but blowing off one of the world great wine regions for bad manners seems a bit snippy.

What's most striking is how "old school" the list is. The wines are almost exclusively Old World, and made from a handful of grape varieties. You will search in vain for the word Zinfandel, let alone for the bushel of indigenous grape varieties that have exploded forth from southern Italy, Iberia, and southeastern Europe in the last decade. The book notes that one of the jobs of the corps of sommeliers is to spot the next new thing, and mentions the sommelier-driven popularity of Austrian Grüner Veltliner as an example. All of that is someone else's list, and someone else's book.

So, back to the sub-title. As I feared, the secret is that to think and drink like a sommelier, you either need to become a sommelier, with all the training and networking and access to fancy bottles that comes with it, or be extremely rich. I'm too old to adopt the former strategy, and the latter is above my pay grade.

Let me not end with just sour grapes. For aspiring sommeliers and wine collectors, this is a valuable resource; and as a look behind the curtain at how the other half of one percent drinks, Secrets of the Sommeliers is an excellent read.

buy-from-tan.gif Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink like The World's Top Wine Professionals, Ten Speed Press 2010, $21.45 (Hardcover).

Tim Patterson writes for several wine magazines, blogs at Blind Muscat's Cellarbook, co-edits the Vinography book review section, and is the author of Home Winemaking for Dummies.

Comments (15)

Tim McDonald wrote:
12.04.10 at 10:31 AM

I look forward to the read and actually just started it. Thanks for sharing with your readers. BTW loved your comments on Lopez Heredia....& If you ever hear of an english version of the Parker one, let us know. T

Dan Sims wrote:
12.04.10 at 5:24 PM

I haven't read the book and admit I've pondered buying it though was concerned it would end up being a written 'pat on the back' to Rajat (which it kind of sounds like it is).

Alder, how much attention is actually given to the service aspects of a sommelier (Seeing that is the key purpose of the role)? Blind tastings etc are all well and good, but if you can't communicate and service guests (make them feel at ease), its irrelevant.

Thanks for the review, I always enjoy reading them.

PS. Loved 'Reading Between the Wines' BTW!

Hector Hill wrote:
12.04.10 at 7:23 PM

Tim...quick question,do you believe that..with a lingering cold-Rajat Parr- correctly called it as a Volnay Premier Cru Burgundy, and after one sip, as a 1998...just wondered...

Tim Patterson wrote:
12.04.10 at 7:54 PM

Dan -- the book is Rajat's book, his experiences, his opinions, written in the third person about him. Not a pat on the back exactly, but a personal vision.

Wine service gets a nice section, but it's not a "how-to" book.

And Hector: Yes, I believe Rajat (and others in his league) can taste through colds, so I trust this anecdote. My hesitation is only that I know I will never be able to do that, cold or no cold.

Hector Hill wrote:
12.05.10 at 11:53 PM

Tim…a quick note…first I want you to know that I just bought the Kindle version of your book for my phone…second, there is not a person on planet earth that could identify a Burgundy Grand Cru and year with a “lingering cold” let alone one of the thousands of Premier Cru’s in Burgundy which in fact Rajat Parr claims to have done (my point is that even sans cold, Parr could not have picked the year and producer of a premier cru at random). These books clearly need to be better edited. There are many sommeliers that embrace their job with knowledge and charm that adds to the dining experience. Unfortunately, there is an element that engage in simple parlor tricks-seemingly for their own amusement- and they need to be held accountable. Tim, me think Rajat Parr too clever by half and for the sake of the industry he needs to be held accountable.

Jordan Mackay wrote:
12.06.10 at 10:01 AM

Alder, thanks so much for Tim's writeup. We really appreciate Tim taking the time to read our book so closely and to offer such a thorough commentary

I'd also like to add that we include the wisdom and war stories from many, many sommeliers in the book. While Raj's is the guiding mind, we both agreed that this should be an initial attempt to collect some of the wisdom being gathered within the incredible culture of the sommellerie. Furthermore, the Wine List and its emphasis on Burgundy, Rhone, and Champagne is hopefully just a beginning. We had only so much time and space. The hope is that if this book succeeds--which it appears to be doing--that we will have opportunities to elaborate on many of the other regions which appeared to get short shrift.

Incidentally, Hector, I can assure that the blind tasting feat of the Volnay actually occurred. I was there. And it is only one of many such feats I have witnessed. Raj's is truly a remarkable palate.

Lego wrote:
12.06.10 at 1:27 PM

Sounds like a good read. I'm glad that someone is finally promoting blind tasting for educational purposes. Not too long ago I took a number of rigorous wine classes and participated in numerous blind tastings along the same vein described in the review. I couldn't believe how sharp my palate became. However, I'm going to join in with Hector among the skeptics here. I have no doubt that someone blind tasting on a regular basis could pick out a Volnay and even correctly assess the year. Although the latter really is educated guess work. I completely lack faith in the ability of even such a finely honed palate to accurately gauge a producer. Unless this is a well known benchmark producer, such a guess would be sheer luck. And with a cold...well lets just say I'm skeptical.

Still, I'm looking forward to reading the book.

12.07.10 at 3:24 PM

I can't comment on what Raj did or did not do with a cold or without. I can tell you, however, that he either did not have a bad cold or he was guessing without the benefit of aromatic assessment.

Why do I say this? I am sitting here, suffering from a bad cold, and cannot pass the "smell taste" that is my standard measure of my olfactory capacity. I have a bottle of after shave (I never use the stuff, but someone years ago gave me some fancy smelly water). I cannot smell it, and I have not been able to smell it for a couple of days and am about to cancel my Tuesday night tasting, because I am not ready to taste.

So, if Raj could not pass the smell test, then he was guessing, and if he could pass it, then his cold was an irrelevancy because he still had this olfactory capability.

As for guessing the wine, place, producer, vintage, well it is a kind of parlor trick in one sense, but it is also a trick that some tasters are able to do. It does not, however, make them better tasters, per se, but good tasters with a good tasting memory.

We have probably all seen it done many times over, and even though I profess to not be good at that particular parlor trick, I did pick out blind an 85 Vieux Telegraphe when challenged, politely and for fun I might add, on my recent trip to the southern Rhone. There is a member of our Connoisseurs' Guide tasting panel who is pretty good at the identity trick. He routinely identifies Ferrari-Carano whites when they appear in our blind tastings and he also has an uncanny knack for spotting Pinot Noirs from Rosella's Vineyard.

My point is this. That Raj was able to identify the wine is certainly a sign of a knowledgeable taster--with or without a cold. I don't think we ought to be doubting his ability to do it. But so too should we not use this as the marker of special powers. It is borne of experience and memory, and is not unique in the wine world.

Dan Martin wrote:
03.26.11 at 6:59 PM

Forgetting whether Raj's palate is so sharp, and I think it is, the book actually was a well-written, unusually cleanly edited, nicely typeset and very attractively photographed volume. It's as prestigious a publication as RN74 is a restaurant. It's become an authoritative must-have on my shelf.

Luca Pitino wrote:
12.26.12 at 8:35 AM

I don't care about the blind tasting.It's not important.
I care about the book.This is a good book.Mr.Parr has outstanding knowledsge on wines.That's all.

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