The essence that is not an essence. Universally unloved, the flaws in wine are as insidious as they are unwanted, and come in many forms. The sharp vinegar and acetone tang of volatile acidity; the rotten eggs reduction; the overly nutty or balsamic note of oxidation; the sweaty socks, garlic and stinky cheese of mercaptans; the wet dog or manure of brettanomyces yeast; and yes, the all-too-common wet cardboard or wet band-aid aroma of cork taint. All too be avoided rather than celebrated. But knowing the difference between a faulty bottle and a wine that you just don't like remains harder than you might think. Levels of sensitivity to these compounds vary among individuals, and to make matters worse, in tiny amounts they don't always ruin a wine. A modicum of volatile acidity and brettanomyces are even coveted by some winemakers (and their customers) as a distinct element of either their terroir or their intended style. One drinker's rustic wine is another's sewer of bacteria, or so it seems. Learning to recognize these flaws is a useful skill for anyone who enjoys wine, but this proves not so easy to do outside of a classroom. Serious students of wine should spend at least one afternoon subjecting themselves to sometimes-gag-inducing levels of these delightful monsters at some point in their careers. Know thine enemy, or so the saying goes.
You didn't really expect me to recommend faulty wines, did you?
Pay attention to how your wines smell and taste, and never pass up the opportunity to smell and taste a little of a wine that someone around you has identified as flawed. The more exposure you get to such wines, the more you will be able to spot them on your own. My personal experience is that my sensitivity to cork taint in particular has dramatically increased over time, and I know others who have experienced the same.
Most wine education programs will include a session on wine faults, which can be invaluable for anyone looking to experience the range of things that can go wrong in a wine. I highly recommend these experiences.
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. 2015 Roederer Award Winner.Learn more.
Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 5/1/16 I'll Drink to That: Charles Philipponnat of Champagne Philipponnat Vinography Images: White Wall I'll Drink to That: Author Ian D'Agata West of West Pinot Tasting: May 19, San Francisco Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 4/24/16 2016 Garagiste Wine Festival: May 19, Oakland Warm Up: Tannins I'll Drink to That: Winemaker Andy Erickson Vinography Unboxed: Week of April 17, 2016
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune