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Restaurant Review: Kanda Yabusoba, Tokyo

Reviewing some Japanese restaurants presents a bit of a challenge in that the food so deceptively simple, that one is at a loss for describing the art behind it. Just as with sushi, in its elemental, stark composition of fish and rice, a discussion of soba will eventually descend into ethereal subtleties that sound more like spirituality than proper food criticism. Soba is essential, in the truest form of the word -- these buckwheat noodles are about an essence of flavor that mirrors many of the attractive elements of the traditional Japanese minimal aesthetic. Soba is to food what an... continue reading


The World's Priciest Meals? Hardly.

Short of the Robb Report, which is really a magazine for those who aspire to be rich, there's no magazine who has a greater claim on having the pulse of the wealthiest in the world than Forbes. Thanks to a link from Luxist this week, we are treated to Forbes list of the world's most expensive restaurants. But before anyone with cash to burn prints out a list and jumps on a plane, I've got to point out one thing: The folks at Forbes have no idea what the heck they're talking about. First of all, and most glaring, the... continue reading


Restaurant Review: Sushi Ken, Tokyo

Most people I've met who consider themselves devotees of a particular food style have a gold standard " one restaurant that serves as their shining example of what real is all about. Without a doubt, Sushi Ken remains for me the quintessence of sushi. Perhaps it also holds a fond place in my heart because it was the first sushi I ate in Toyko, in the capable hands of a CEO business partner, and it introduced me to a whole class of fish (and also different types of fish) that I had not imagined existed. Sushi Ken is actually two... continue reading


Restaurant Review: Yokaro, Tokyo

To say that I have eaten at Yokaro more than any other restaurant in the world might be an outrageous sounding claim, given that it is a tiny little outfit found in a couple back alleys of Tokyo's business districts, but it's likely to be the truth. Over the course of the 18 months I spent living and working in Japan, I probably ate at Yokaro two or three times per week at a minimum. The scary thing is that I have ordered the same thing, starting from my first experience there to my last. Ah, my first experience. One... continue reading

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April 2016

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Most Recent Entries

Restaurant Review: Kanda Yabusoba, Tokyo The World's Priciest Meals? Hardly. Restaurant Review: Sushi Ken, Tokyo Restaurant Review: Yokaro, Tokyo

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Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune

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Required Reading for Wine Lovers

The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson Wine Grapes The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson to cork or not to cork by George Taber reading between the vines by Terry Theise adventures on the wine route by Kermit Lynch Love By the Glass by Dorothy Gaiter & John Brecher Noble Rot by William Echikson The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode The Judgement of Paris by George Taber The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil The Botanist and the Vintner by Christy Campbell The Emperor of Wine by Elin McCoy The Taste of Wine by Emile Peynaud