Reviewing some Japanese restaurants presents a bit of a challenge in that the food so deceptively simple, that one is at a loss for describing the art behind it. Just as with sushi, in its elemental, stark composition of fish and rice, a discussion of soba will eventually descend into ethereal subtleties that sound more like spirituality than proper food criticism. Soba is essential, in the truest form of the word -- these buckwheat noodles are about an essence of flavor that mirrors many of the attractive elements of the traditional Japanese minimal aesthetic. Soba is to food what an... continue reading11.20.2005
Short of the Robb Report, which is really a magazine for those who aspire to be rich, there's no magazine who has a greater claim on having the pulse of the wealthiest in the world than Forbes. Thanks to a link from Luxist this week, we are treated to Forbes list of the world's most expensive restaurants. But before anyone with cash to burn prints out a list and jumps on a plane, I've got to point out one thing: The folks at Forbes have no idea what the heck they're talking about. First of all, and most glaring, the... continue reading11.21.2004
Most people I've met who consider themselves devotees of a particular food style have a gold standard " one restaurant that serves as their shining example of what real is all about. Without a doubt, Sushi Ken remains for me the quintessence of sushi. Perhaps it also holds a fond place in my heart because it was the first sushi I ate in Toyko, in the capable hands of a CEO business partner, and it introduced me to a whole class of fish (and also different types of fish) that I had not imagined existed. Sushi Ken is actually two... continue reading11.19.2004
To say that I have eaten at Yokaro more than any other restaurant in the world might be an outrageous sounding claim, given that it is a tiny little outfit found in a couple back alleys of Tokyo's business districts, but it's likely to be the truth. Over the course of the 18 months I spent living and working in Japan, I probably ate at Yokaro two or three times per week at a minimum. The scary thing is that I have ordered the same thing, starting from my first experience there to my last. Ah, my first experience. One... continue reading
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