One of the trends in the wine world that I’ve been happiest to see in recent years is the surge in interest in lighter-bodied red wines. Chillable reds are the thing these days, and this has people discovering the delights of grapes such as Pais, or rediscovering the pleasures of grapes like Gamay.
Red grapes that make (or can make, if treated right) lighter-bodied wines can be found everywhere around the globe, but that doesn’t mean they’re popular or populous. Occasionally you’ll find an entire region dedicated to these grapes, such as the fabulous duo of Poulsard and Trousseau in the Jura, Nerello Mascalese on Sicily’s Mount Etna, or the predominance of Pais and Carignan in Chile’s Itata Valley.
Perhaps more often though, these wines are somewhat obscure, made from indigenous grape varieties that, if not coveted, are certainly known and appreciated in their local area and have been for some time. Often only the very best examples or the products of the most ambitious producers make it out onto the international markets where curious wine lovers may come across them thanks to the work of dedicated importers.
Such is the fate of a grape I have come to love named Pineau d’Aunis, which has long languished at some level of obscurity in the Loire Valley. Just how obscure is this grape? So obscure that it comes not just from the Loire Valley, but from the Loir Valley.
Quite confusingly, one of the main tributaries of the Loire River is named the Loir River, which merges with its better-known sibling just south of the city of Angers in the Anjou region of France. The Loir flows roughly parallel with Loire but about 20-30 miles farther north in France. Through its middle section, it bisects two wine regions, Coteaux-du-Vendômois and Coteaux-du-Loir, both of which feature the Pineau d’Aunis grape in both rosé and red wine forms.
This past spring I visited the Loire as part of a press trip for the Loire Millésime event, and had a chance to taste through a whole bunch of Pineau d’Aunis.
Ancient But Mysterious
We don’t know a lot about the Pineau d’Aunis grape, other than it seems quite old, and is clearly related from a DNA perspective to Sauvignon Blanc and, like that grape, probably originated in or near the Loire Valley.
The word Pineau appears in writings from that area as far back as 1183 according to the encyclopedic Wine Grapes. However, Chenin Blanc has also been referred to as Pineau de la Loire (and Pineau d’Aunis was long called Chenin Noir), perhaps because Chenin was erroneously thought at one point to be a white mutation of Pineau d’Aunis, though DNA analysis proves this, as well as any relation to Pinot Noir, definitively false.
About 1100 acres of Pineau d’Aunis currently exist in the Loire, but that’s a significant increase from what some commentators claim was a low of a mere 40 acres in 1973, most having been replanted with the better-known and more commercially successful Cabernet Franc.
Thankfully, the grape never lost its strongest adherents, and now has become even slightly fashionable, enough that plantings are increasing, if slowly. The last time it was fashionable was back in the 13th Century when it was supposedly a favorite of King Henry III in England, so much so that some theorize that England’s love affair with French “Claret” might have begun not with a red wine made of Cabernet, but one made of Pineau d’Aunis.
These days, Pineau seems to be made primarily by tiny individual producers or small local cooperatives like the Cave du Vendômois. Not many bottles make it to the US, but those that do are invariably decent, and often are good values.
Bright Fresh Spicy Fruity
In its pink form, Pineau d’Aunis has a zippy, crisp quality that will appeal to anyone who enjoys their pink wines lean and energetic. They often feature berry and citrus notes, great acidity, and a reasonable dose of minerality. I’ve never had an aged Pineau d’Aunis rosé but I suspect they might age beautifully.
In its darker form, Pineau d’Aunis wines can be quite profound, despite remaining relatively light-bodied. The grape can have some serious tannins if not handled well, and some of the lower-scoring reds below reflect somewhat unbalanced, aggressive tannins that are likely responsible for the grape’s more rustic reputation.
But when handled gently, and not overly extracted, Pineau d’Aunis offers a wonderful set of aromatics that include spice and incense, occasionally pepper, along with dried flowers. These are layered on bright forest berry flavors like elderberry or huckleberry, sticking more to the red end of the fruit spectrum than black. Provided they are not over-oaked or over-extracted, they can benefit from a slight chill, offering a refreshing but complex character and unique personality.
Tasting Notes
Apologies in advance for the fact that these wines aren’t easy to find. I tend to buy bottles of Pineau d’Aunis whenever they cross my path, and suggest you do the same.
Pineau d’Aunis Rosé
2021 Cave du Vendômois “Le Cocagne” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light peachy pink in color, this wine smells of wet felt and citrus peel. In the mouth, wonderfully bright citrus peel, crabapple, and watermelon rind flavors have a fantastic deep stony minerality and great, mouthwatering acidity. Crisp and clean, with a sour, mouthwatering citrus note in the finish and a bit of salinity. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $14. click to buy.
2021 Cave du Vendômois “Le Carillon de Vendôme” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Pale peachy pink in color, this wine smells of wet stone, citrus, and herbs. In the mouth, deeply stony delicate flavors of citrus peel, peach, crabapple, and seawater have a wonderful savory quality with lovely citrus and floral overtones. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $20.
2021 Domaine Lelais “Poivre Rose” Coteaux-du-Loir Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light ruby with hints of orange, this wine smells of orange peel and a touch of potpourri. In the mouth, creamsicle flavors are bright with rosehip acidity and hints of saffron in the finish. Excellent and zippy. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 9. Cost: 5.90 €
2021 Domaine Colin “Gris Bodin” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Pale peachy pink in the glass, this wine smells of watermelon, peach, and orange peel. In the mouth, brisk orange peel, raspberry, and citrus peel flavors have a nice bright juiciness to them. Crisp and nicely mineral with a nice citrusy acidic kick. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 9. Cost: 10 €
2021 Domaine de Cézin “Domaine” Coteaux-du-Loir Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Palest peachy pink in color, this wine smells of white flowers, peach, orange peel, and hibiscus. In the mouth, silky flavors of citrus peel, peach, and strawberry have a nice bright saline quality and excellent acidity. Juicy and zippy. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 9. Cost: $15.
2021 Domaine de La Raderie Coteaux-du-Loir Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Pale peachy pink in color, this wine smells of citrus peel and rosehips. In the mouth, very bright kumquat and citrus peel notes mix with a hint of fresh apricot and rosehip. Sour, mouthwatering acidity makes for a juicy, even racy finish with saline undertones. Delicious. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $18.
2021 Domaine du Four À Chaux “Benjamin” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Pale peach in the glass, this wine smells of citrus peel and a hint of unripe cantaloupe. In the mouth, there’s a slight petillance but that doesn’t bother me, as racy, citrus peel and crabapple flavors are tangy and bright. Excellent acidity. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: 5.50 €
2021 Domaine Colin “Gris Jeunes Vignes” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rosé, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Pale peachy pink in the glass, this wine smells of citrus and wet stones. In the mouth, peachy and unripe apple flavors are juicy and bright with good acidity and there’s a hint of slight bitterness in the finish. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 8.5. Cost: 8.50 €
Pineau d’Aunis Rouge
2019 Domaine Patrice Colin “Intuition” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of dried flowers and huckleberries. In the mouth, huckleberries and dried flowers are wrapped in fleecy tannins as notes of blood orange and incense and fresh flowers soar through a long finish. Outstanding and utterly compelling. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 100% Pineau d’Aunis from vines planted in 1890. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $40.
2020 Jean Marie Renvoisé “Aunis” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of wet leaves and dried flowers with a hint of huckleberries. In the mouth, juicy and bright dried flowers, crabapple, and huckleberry notes are light and citrus-driven with lightly muscular tannins providing structure and support. Deep minerality and bright acidity, made in a lighter style. Quite delicious. In conversion to organic. This is one of my gold standard wines for the grape variety. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $22.
2020 Domaine de Cézin “Janus” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of forest floor and pine duff. In the mouth, juicy flavors of slightly saline/dashi-infused huckleberry and plum are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins but the fruit and the juicy citrusy acidity shine through as that savory dashi note lingers in the finish. Very tasty. This wine is only 60% Pinot d’Aunis, the rest is a blend of Côt (Malbec), Cabernet Franc, and Gamay. Score: around 9. Cost: $23.
2020 Domaine de Cézin “Génération IV” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers and freshly chopped herbs. In the mouth, juicy flavors of fresh herbs, dried flowers, huckleberries, and plums mix with chopped fresh herbs and a touch of wet earth. Supple, muscular tannins flex a bit as the wine finishes with just a touch of citrus peel. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 9. Cost: 7.60 €
2020 Domaine Patrice Colin “Les Vignes d’Emilien Colin” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers and huckleberry jam, and a hint of forest floor. In the mouth, beautiful huckleberry flavors are wrapped in a thick fleecy blanket of tannins that accompany notes of incense and dried flowers along with a lovely earthiness. Excellent acidity and deep stoniness. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 9. Cost: 14 €
2020 Cave du Vendômois “Le Haut des Coutis” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of huckleberry and wet earth. In the mouth, deeply earthy notes of huckleberry and raspberry are wrapped in a thick muscular fist of tannins that squeeze tightly as the wine heads for an earthy finish. Excellent acidity keeps the wine quite fresh. But the tannins need time to unwind. Made without added sulfites. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: 9 €
2021 Domaine Lelais “Les quatre épices” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light ruby in color, this wine smells of forest floor and forest berries. In the mouth, cherry, black raspberry, and huckleberry flavors are draped in a flannel sheet of tannins as notes of plum and huckleberry linger in the finish. Good acidity. Contains 10% Gamay and 5% Côt, the local name for Malbec. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: 6.90 €
2020 Cave du Vendômois “Grillé d’Aunis” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of wet earth and forest floor. In the mouth, saline notes of plum and huckleberry are nestled into a downy pillow of powdery tannins that coat the mouth. Good acidity and wonderful stony depths. Notes of river mud linger in the finish. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $36
2020 Domaine Gigou Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light ruby in color, this wine smells of wet leaves and forest floor. In the mouth, huckleberries and dried flowers are wrapped in a leathery throw of tannins as earth and deep stony minerality linger through the finish with hints of dried flowers. Needs a little time for the tannins to relax. Made with organic grapes. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 8.5. Cost: 10.50 €
2020 Ariane & Co “Picrochole” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers, cherries, and a hint of licorice. In the mouth, putty-like tannins wrap around a core of cherry and huckleberry flavors suffused with a darker prune quality. Good acidity. Made with organic grapes. 100% Pineau d’Aunis. Score: around 8.5. Cost: 16.00 €
2020 Domaine de La Raderie “L’Aunis” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of wet earth, huckleberries, and dried flowers. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around a juicy core of huckleberry, plum, and a touch of blueberry. The tannins are quite strong here and need time to mellow. Good acidity. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: 10 €
2021 Domaine du Four À Chaux “Benjamin” Coteaux-du-Vendômois Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of wet leaves and plum, with hints of incense In the mouth, leathery tannins wrap around a core of huckleberry and earth. Good acidity and a hint of citrus in the finish. The tannins sit very thick on the tongue. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: 5.70 €
2020 Domaine de Bellivière “Rouge-Gorge” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of a just extinguished candle and dried flowers. In the mouth, massive, muscular tannins coat the mouth and tightly grip a core of huckleberry and plum flavors that have good acidity. Unfortunately, the tannins here are just too massive to allow the enjoyment of the fruit that sits embedded within. Made with organic grapes. Score: between 7.5 and 8. Cost: 22.50 €
MV Domaine de Cézin “Berc’Au” Coteaux-du-Loir Rouge, Touraine, Loire Valley, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of oak and fruit. In the mouth, flavors of oak overwhelm and outshine the huckleberry and plum fruit, leaving their drying tannins in their wake. A blend of 2017 and 2018 vintages. Score: around 7.5. Cost: 32.00 €
Featured image of the Coteaux-du-Loir couresty of Vallée du Loir Tourism – Vignoble Chahaignes © JP Berlose