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2002 J.M. Boillot Rully Premier Cru, "La Pucelle," France

I have a friend and former colleague who is pretty fanatical about wines. He enjoys them all, but on a number of occasions has told me that pretty much all he drinks at home are Pinot Noirs and White Blends. For Pinot, he seems to favor new world wines, specifically Oregon and Washington, but for his crisp whites, he really only drinks French, and more to the point, white Burgundy. I had a chance to sample his tastes the other day when he brought me this bottle from one of Burgundy's mainstream producers, Jean-Marc Boillot.

Boillot is the grandson of Etienne Sauzet (as in Domaine Etienne Sauzet) and was previously winemaker for Olivier Leflaive big time name in Montrachet. He makes wines from his estates, as well as a negociant (look for whether he spells out his full name on the wine. If its just the initials - like on this wine - then you've got someone elses grapes in the bottle). He has gained some reknown for his breaking away from a very established family history of winemaking to produce Burgundies that defy the trends and standards established by his father and grandfather. For more information on the old and new of Burgundy see the Wine Spectator article entitled "Burgundy Divided."

Tasting Notes:
Nearly colorless with a tinge of yellow through the glass, this wine smells of freshness: light butter, green grass, lemon, and a medely of floral notes. On the tongue it has a cool clean mouthfeel with flavors of citrus zest, toasted oak, and honeysuckle. These flavors are lifted with a nice acidity that tickles the front of the tongue and gives the wine a clean and refreshing finish.

Food Pairing:
This is a great fish wine, and also one that would go well with goat cheese. The acidity will also cut through thick sauces. I might pair it with this poached salmon with tarragon sauce and fingerling potatoes.

Overall Score: 8

How Much?: $24

I received this bottle as a gift, but it can be found through various online merchants. Try Wine Searcher.

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The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson Wine Grapes The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson to cork or not to cork by George Taber reading between the vines by Terry Theise adventures on the wine route by Kermit Lynch Love By the Glass by Dorothy Gaiter & John Brecher Noble Rot by William Echikson The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode The Judgement of Paris by George Taber The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil The Botanist and the Vintner by Christy Campbell The Emperor of Wine by Elin McCoy The Taste of Wine by Emile Peynaud