I have a friend and former colleague who is pretty fanatical about wines. He enjoys them all, but on a number of occasions has told me that pretty much all he drinks at home are Pinot Noirs and White Blends. For Pinot, he seems to favor new world wines, specifically Oregon and Washington, but for his crisp whites, he really only drinks French, and more to the point, white Burgundy. I had a chance to sample his tastes the other day when he brought me this bottle from one of Burgundy's mainstream producers, Jean-Marc Boillot.
Boillot is the grandson of Etienne Sauzet (as in Domaine Etienne Sauzet) and was previously winemaker for Olivier Leflaive big time name in Montrachet. He makes wines from his estates, as well as a negociant (look for whether he spells out his full name on the wine. If its just the initials - like on this wine - then you've got someone elses grapes in the bottle). He has gained some reknown for his breaking away from a very established family history of winemaking to produce Burgundies that defy the trends and standards established by his father and grandfather. For more information on the old and new of Burgundy see the Wine Spectator article entitled "Burgundy Divided."
Nearly colorless with a tinge of yellow through the glass, this wine smells of freshness: light butter, green grass, lemon, and a medely of floral notes. On the tongue it has a cool clean mouthfeel with flavors of citrus zest, toasted oak, and honeysuckle. These flavors are lifted with a nice acidity that tickles the front of the tongue and gives the wine a clean and refreshing finish.
This is a great fish wine, and also one that would go well with goat cheese. The acidity will also cut through thick sauces. I might pair it with this poached salmon with tarragon sauce and fingerling potatoes.
Overall Score: 8
How Much?: $24
I received this bottle as a gift, but it can be found through various online merchants. Try Wine Searcher.
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.
The Superb Grace of Old Vines: Drinking Janasse The Zinfandel Experience: January 31, San Francisco Vinography Unboxed: Week of January 4, 2015 Vinography Images: The Colors of a New Season Vinography Unboxed: Week of December 27th, 2014 Vinography Images: Rich Skies Losing a Legend in Serge Hochar Flirting with the Ecstatic: The Wines of Nikolaihof, Austria Vinography Unboxed: Week of December 20, 2014 A Grape By Any Other Name
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune