The wine industry in California is undergoing a slow revolution. First it was synthetic corks, then screwcaps, now tetra-paks; varietals like Syrah and Viognier were brought to prominence. Perhaps most controversially, people have actually started to make decent wine for under twenty bucks.
For some though, this revolution isn't nearly fast nor radical enough. Enter, The Three Thieves. These self proclaimed "jug boys" and "liberators of world class wine" have strode through the swinging doors of the saloon with guns-a-blaring.
Here's the plot: buy a ton of aftermarket wine (already pressed and fermented) blend it 'til you think its good, throw it in a one-liter maple syrup jug bottle and top it off with a screwcap. "Cowboy up!" as they say.
These three thieves are actually Joel Gott, Charles Bieler, and Roger Scommegna, and whatever else it may be judged as, this latest venture of theirs is a brilliant piece of marketing that in the tradition of Randall Grahm pokes fun at everything that is stuffy and established about the wine industry.
Does the wine transcend its cute packaging and guerilla marketing? Maybe. It's certainly better than a lot of the swill priced at $10 in Safeway, but while it is balanced, ultimately it's not something I want to drink every day.
Pomegranate red in the glass with a hint of purple, this wine has aromas of cherry and a light touch of cassis in the nose at first, and then as it opens, more scents of dark berries. In the mouth it has a cool, clean, claret style feel across the palate with a nice balance of cherry, strawberry, and sweet toasted oak, but the flavors are lacking tannins and a substantial backbone that would turn this wine into something more complex. The finish is average and unremarkable.
I had some with a steak off the BBQ and it complemented the rib eye nicely. Its a good all-around red dinner wine that should be served with hearty foods.
Overall Score: 7/7.5
How Much?: $9.99
I picked up my bottle at my local Good Life grocery store. Find online merchants using Wine Searcher.
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.
I'll Drink to That: Danilo Nada of Nada Fiorenzo Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 8/23 Vinography Images: Night Sorting Small is Beautiful: The Champagnes of Savart I'll Drink to That: Karl duHoffmann of Anchor Brewing Warm Up: Jerez de la Frontera I'll Drink to That: Antonio Flores of González Byass California 2015 - Vintage of Fire Wine News: What I'm Reading the Week of 8/16 A Selection of Georgian Wines
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune