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10.01.2004

Undrinkable Now, But Not In 20 Years? What is Going On Here?

Consider this: 1995 Beaucastel 93 pts. Robert M. Parker, Jr. "The classic 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape will require discipline. Like most top vintages of Beaucastel, a decade of patience will be warranted before this wine will be enjoyable to drink....The 1995 will have three decades of longevity, but it will not be approachable before 2006. It exhibits a deep dark ruby/purple color, and a provocative (probably controversial) aromatic profile of animal fur...etc...etc."

I've often wondered how it is that someone can taste a wine out of a barrel (or even a bottle) and declare that while it's nasty now, it will be glorious in 15 years. I guess I assumed that the only way to do this would be to have incredible sensory memory. That is, if you had 30 or 40 years of history tasting wines when they were in the barrel and then were able to consistently taste those same wines a decade later AND (this is the crucial point) remember what they tasted like in their youth) then you might be able to learn how certain wines change with age and be able to reasonably predict how new wines from the same estate might follow the same pattern.

It all hinges on that sensory memory and an incredible history of tasting consistently and constantly. Perhaps Parker has it -- I go back and forth about whether the guy is the oenological equivalent of a polymath or an emperor with no clothes.

It turns out that this particular aspect of his criticism, the rating of wines early in their lifespan is a particularly contentious issue between Parker and another critic Orley C. Ashenfelter, a professor of Economics who publishes a newsletter about wine investing. I have Professor Bainbridge and his wine blog to thank for pointing me to this fabulous posting which runs down the long standing conflict between the two critics over the 1989 Bordeaux vintage with juicy barbs like "neanderthal" and "ludicrous and absurd" being traded.

Comments (2)

djb wrote:
10.01.04 at 10:38 AM

The emperor has no clothes. At leaste that is my opinion. And Robert Parker has his and that is what he is paid to exhibit. He is not a robot taster and tasting wine is not math. There is no right answer. I find it very difficult to believe that he can talk about what a wine will taste like in 20 years by tasting it now, but I guess I should go buy a bottle of 1995 Beaucastel and get back to you in 10 or so years to see if he is right.

HugeJ wrote:
10.01.04 at 4:19 PM

Reportedly, Parker takes no notes during his tastings of sometimes more than 20 wines from a winery. That in itself is staggering given the enormous volume he tastes during regional visits.

As for the "animal fur" descriptor, sounds like Brett to me. I detest Brett and am overly sensitive to it, however Parker seems to like it. I cannot see how a Bretty wine will become more drinkable as the wine ages, though. Brett usually gets worse with time.

/huge

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The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson The Taste of Wine by Emile Peynaud Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch Love By the Glass by Dorothy Gaiter & John Brecher Noble Rot by William Echikson The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode The Judgement of Paris by George Taber The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil The Botanist and the Vintner by Christy Campbell The Emperor of Wine by Elin McCoy The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson The World's Greatest Wine Estates by Robert M. Parker, Jr.