Text Size:-+
07.12.2008

Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss, Alsace: Current Releases


kreydenweiss.gifThe wines of Alsace are some of the most unique and distinctive in the world. They are also some of my favorites, not only because they are delicious, but also because they are made by some of France's most individualistic and headstrong vintners.

Alsace has long been a place apart, both from France and Germany, each of which have laid claim over the valleys and hills that lie west of the Rhine river which currently demarcates the border between the two nations. It's easy to characterize the region as a smooth and quirky blend between the two countries, but such a simple description belies the unique nature of the region, especially when it comes to its cuisine and its wine.

Alsace is the only region of France whose wines have historically been labeled with varietal names (though since 2001 they can now bear the names of their Grand Cru vineyards). Alsace was also the first wine region to adopt Biodynamic viticulture, the holistic growing and winemaking regimen based on the teachings of Rudolph Steiner. Since it's first Biodynamic vineyard in 1960, Alsace has been at the forefront of the movement. The region can now claim to be the most Biodynamic winegrowing region in France, with more than 37,000 acres of vineyards and more than 57 producers adhering to the strict and often bizarre methods of cultivation and winemaking.

Though I count myself as a skeptic of many of the processes and beliefs associated with Biodynamics, I must also admit that some of the greatest wines in the world (not to mention the greatest winemakers of the world) are Biodynamic. So there's clearly something to it.

Which is why when Alsatian vintner Marc Kreydenweiss talks about selecting vineyard sites based on their exceptional vibrations and constructing his wine cellars using the golden ratio and an "accumulator to charge the telluric and cosmic forces" I have to roll my eyes a bit, but then enthusiastically explore his range of distinctive wines that are made in small quantities and with the extreme care that characterizes Biodynamic methods.

Kreydenweiss took over the farming and winemaking of his family's domaine in 1970 at the tender age of 23. At the time, the 12 or so acres that his family owned were producing grapes for sale to neighbors, despite a history of winegrowing in the very same vineyards that stretched back nearly three centuries and included periods of great renown for the little hillsides of schist and sandstone. Kreydenweiss set out to recapture some of the glory of this history, and spent the next two decades acquiring additional neighboring vineyard plots and overhauling the domaine's winegrowing practices to focus on low yields and strictly organic farming. In 1991 Kreydenweiss converted the first of his vineyards to Biodynamic techniques, and the rest of the vineyards soon followed.

Today Kreydenweiss farms a little less than 30 acres of vineyards in Alsace, which include portions of three Grand Cru vineyards: Kastelberg, Moenchberg, and Weibelsberg. The domaine produces a number of small production wines from the typical grapes of the region.

Like most of the long time winemakers of Alsace, Kreydenweiss is fervently dedicated to his terroir. But unlike many of his colleagues, he harbors a desire that is hard to quench with the soils and the wines of his home: deep red wine.

Alsace grows a bit of Pinot Noir, of course, but it is almost exclusively a white wine region. So when Kreydenweiss wanted to make himself a red wine, he needed to look elsewhere. His quest for distinctive terroir eventually led him to the far south end of the Rhone valley, in an appellation called Costieres de Nimes. Here he found rich soils supporting old-vine Carignane, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Grenache, and a place to make red wines with the same passion as his whites. This review does not include these wines, but they are quite good, and are excellent values, to boot.

Only about 20% of the estate's small production levels reach the United States. I have tasted the domaine's wines each year for the past three years and found them quite consistently good. I often have a small complaint -- that they tend to lack enough acidity for my palate -- but the most recent vintages seem to have improved in this department. The wines below are some of the best I have ever had from the domaine.

Full disclosure: I received these wines as press samples.

TASTING NOTES:

2005 Marc Kreydenweiss "Wiebelsberg" Riesling Grand Cru, Alsace
Pale green gold in the glass, this wine has an amazing nose of star fruit, herbs, floral notes and unknown, exotic scents. In the mouth it is bright and beautiful, with nice acidity wrapped around flavors of apples and exotic fruits. Like some of the best Rieslings, it manages to be sweet without any trace of sugar, but also savory in some obscure respect. A forever finish makes this a wine to savor, quietly, alone or with friends that require little conversation. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $35. Where to buy?

2006 Marc Kreydenweiss "Kritt" Pinot Blanc, Alsace
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of honey and old parchment. In the mouth it offers a light sweetness (it is slightly off-dry) flavored like delicate honey, and aromas of white flowers that soar into a long finish. The wine has a soft character (just a hair light on acidity), but this cannot mar what is otherwise a lovely concoction. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $30. Where to buy?

2005 Marc Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling, Alsace
A pale green gold color, this wine smells of honey poached pears. In the mouth it is gorgeous chalky and dry, with beautifully balanced flavors of honey, white flowers, and citrus zest. The long finish is mostly citrus dominated, and lovely to behold. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $22.Where to buy?

2005 Marc Kreydenweiss "Kritt" Pinot Blanc, Alsace
Pale green gold in color, this wine has a stony nose of apple and pear aromas. On the palate it is a little waxy in flavor, with a nice texture and a smoky quality that wraps around core flavors of unripe apples, and spiced pears. Like its brethren, the wine possesses a lovely finish, though perhaps less complexity. Score: around 9. Cost: $24. Where to buy?

2005 Marc Kreydenweiss "Clos Rebberg" Pinot Gris, Alsace
Light gold in color, this wine has a nose of chamomile, dried herbs, and yellow flowers. In the mouth it offers quite distinctive flavors of bee pollen, dandelions and honey. Well balanced with a lovely finish, the wine dances on the palate. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $32. Where to buy?

Comments (13)

James D. Graves wrote:
07.13.08 at 4:50 PM

Would you please define what exactly is "biodynamics" in relation to wine making, and grape growing? I have an idea what it is but I would really appreciate a professional definition...thanx....Jim

Alder wrote:
07.13.08 at 7:52 PM

Jim,

The REAL answer to that question is a manual published by the Demeter Society which specifies all the actions, processes, and techniques that are required for a vineyard to be certified as Biodynamic (in the USA). If you have two hours take a read through them.

A shorter explanation might be as follows:

Biodynamics is an integrated, holistic approach to grape farming and winemaking that involves creating:

1. A self-maintaining ecosystem for the vineyard/farm, where all the products and elements required for farming are produced on site, and produced naturally.

2. A healthy, balanced soil base by virtue of the above, and through the elimination of all unnatural fertilizers, insecticides, etc.

3. The most "naturally made" wine possible through the use of natural yeasts, the lack of fining or filtration, and the elimination of nearly all chemical or mechanical interventions in the winemaking process, with the exception of added sulfur.

Unfortunately it also includes a whole lot of medieval pseudo-science mumbo jumbo about how all this stuff properly aligns and balances the energy of your vineyards in tune with the cosmos. The philosophy includes proscriptions about on which days certain activities can be undertaken due to the alignment of the planets and the moon, as well as various bizarre preparations that are supposed to help the vineyard -- a red deer bladder stuffed with yarrow, a cow horn stuffed with manure and quartz crystals, etc. etc.

Anyhow, that's an explanation from a non practitioner. I may have readers that actually practice biodynamic viticulture, and they can tell you what I've gotten wrong.

Alder

Cory wrote:
07.17.08 at 6:12 PM

Thanks for the excellent review. I had no idea Kreydenweiss even made white wine, but I will heartily agree that his reds are some of the best values going right now.

11.21.14 at 2:26 PM

Its like you read my mind! You appear to understand a
lot approximately this, like you wrote the e book in it
or something. I believe that you simply could do with some
p.c. to pressure the message house a bit, however instead
of that, this is great blog. An excellent read. I will certainly be back.

11.22.14 at 12:55 AM

Great article! That is the kind of information that
are meant to be shared around the net. Shame on the seek engines for now not positioning this put up upper!
Come on over and seek advice from my web site . Thank you =)

11.22.14 at 7:08 AM

The sea's harvest is shared among residents and seafood-loving travelers.
Rates showed in the 'top locations to remain' section are the lowest rates offered departing
within the next 365 days.

11.22.14 at 12:58 PM

Hi! I could have sworn I've been to this site before but after looking at a few of the posts I realized it's new to me.
Regardless, I'm definitely pleased I discovered it and I'll be book-marking it and checking
back regularly!

11.22.14 at 1:34 PM

Its structure enables for carrying lots of extras like snow footwear, a wind breaker or other hotter jackets and has a neat fleece lined goggle pocket which stops the goggle from fogging up.
The fleece shields the lens from scratches primarily during tumbles and falls.
It also has a helmet pocket which would make carrying the helmet
close to pretty hassle free of charge.

I discovered these truffles horrible, I let them stand for 4hrs it did not organization up thoroughly.
I place them in the refrigerator for 2hrs they firmed up a little,
but not adequate to roll. I set them in the freezer until the next working day.
For the dough: in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment,
whisk the egg yolks, entire egg, sugar, butter, and buttermilk.

Incorporate around 2 cups of the flour along with
the yeast and salt whisk until finally moistened and put together.
Eliminate the whisk attachment and switch with a dough hook.

Leather skirts are as popular as they have ever been. And the purpose is likely
because they are a flexible product of garments. For instance,
they change in length from micro to mini to just over the
knee to under the knee. In a variety of conditions, the
application of leather-based was even prolonged to pants and extras as
properly. Leather trousers have been then thought of to be incredibly hot and women ended up also instant to go by this enhancement.
Black leather-based pants with belts that experienced whopping shiny buckles
turned a style statement specially with the youth..


There is no motive whatsoever for Lois Lane, who admittedly showed up for five times of school,
to be expecting to be remembered as a scholar there.
Guaranteed, Lois was a army brat, so she grabs on to the Smallville Significant component
of her life and possibly romanticizes it for more than it was, but I know the clever Lois Lane would never expect
a team of young older people who realized each individual other for
the initial 18 decades of their life to try to remember a great deal if just about anything about the 5 times they may well or may possibly not have seen some new chick wandering the
halls. I know this is heading to audio nit picky to some of
you, but it specifics like this that bug the residing Blue Kryptonite out of me.

Natalie wrote:
11.22.14 at 2:18 PM

Aberdeen has a 56 x 26 metre ice field called Linx Ice Field.
It has a meeting, bar, and café rooms and is signed up with on to Aberdeen Leisure Centre.

11.22.14 at 2:32 PM

Its design and style will allow for carrying plenty of add-ons
like snow shoes, a wind breaker or other hotter jackets and has a neat fleece lined goggle pocket which stops the goggle
from fogging up. The fleece safeguards the lens from scratches particularly in the course of tumbles and falls.

It also has a helmet pocket which would make carrying the helmet about pretty headache free of charge.


I discovered these truffles horrible, I enable them stand for 4hrs it did not
business up properly. I place them in the refrigerator for 2hrs they firmed up marginally, but not sufficient to roll.
I place them in the freezer till the subsequent working day.
For the dough: in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, whisk the egg yolks, entire egg, sugar, butter, and buttermilk.
Add close to two cups of the flour along with the yeast and salt
whisk till moistened and combined. Remove the whisk attachment and
exchange with a dough hook.

Leather-based skirts are as well-liked as they have at any time
been. And the explanation is most likely for the reason that
they are a flexible item of clothes. For case in point,
they range in length from micro to mini to just over the knee to under the
knee. In a quantity of conditions, the application of leather was even extended to trousers and accessories
as nicely. Leather trousers were being then viewed as to be warm and ladies had
been also immediate to go by this growth. Black leather-based pants with belts
that experienced whopping shiny buckles grew to become a manner assertion particularly
with the youth..

There is no motive in any way for Lois Lane, who admittedly showed up for 5 times of university, to be
expecting to be remembered as a pupil there. Confident, Lois
was a military services brat, so she grabs on to the Smallville High portion of her lifestyle and maybe romanticizes it for a
lot more than it was, but I know the smart Lois Lane would
never ever anticipate a group of young older people who knew each and every other for the initial
18 decades of their lives to try to remember substantially if anything at all about the five days they may or
might not have found some new chick wandering the
halls. I know this is likely to audio nit picky to some
of you, but it aspects like this that bug the living Blue Kryptonite out of me.

11.22.14 at 4:01 PM

I read this piece of writing fully on the topic of the resemblance of
hottest and earlier technologies, it's amazing article.

11.22.14 at 10:27 PM

Its style and design will allow for carrying tons of equipment like snow
footwear, a wind breaker or other hotter jackets and has a neat fleece lined goggle pocket which helps prevent the goggle from fogging
up. The fleece safeguards the lens from scratches particularly in the course of tumbles and falls.
It also has a helmet pocket which would make carrying the helmet all
around rather hassle free.

I found these truffles horrible, I let them stand for
4hrs it did not company up appropriately. I place them in the refrigerator
for 2hrs they firmed up a bit, but not sufficient to roll.
I place them in the freezer till the following working day.
For the dough: in the bowl of a stand mixer with the whisk attachment,
whisk the egg yolks, entire egg, sugar, butter, and buttermilk.
Increase somewhere around 2 cups of the flour together with the yeast and salt
whisk until moistened and combined. Take out the whisk attachment and replace with a dough hook.


Leather skirts are as popular as they have ever been. And the motive is most likely since
they are a adaptable item of apparel. For case in point, they vary
in size from micro to mini to just earlier mentioned the knee to down below the knee.
In a number of situations, the application of leather-based
was even extended to trousers and add-ons as very well.
Leather-based trousers were then regarded to be very hot and ladies were being also quick to go by this growth.
Black leather-based pants with belts that experienced
whopping shiny buckles became a manner assertion especially with the youth..


There is no rationale in any respect for Lois Lane, who admittedly confirmed up for 5 days
of faculty, to be expecting to be remembered as a college
student there. Certain, Lois was a armed forces brat, so she grabs on to
the Smallville Large component of her existence and perhaps romanticizes
it for far more than it was, but I know the good Lois Lane
would in no way assume a group of younger grownups who realized just
about every other for the initial 18 yrs of their life to recall much if just about
anything about the five days they could or may not have found
some new chick wandering the halls. I know this is going to sound
nit picky to some of you, but it specifics like this that bug the dwelling Blue Kryptonite
out of me.

11.23.14 at 12:55 AM

The salesman-slash-owner assured me it was not being over-used and that it was the correct model that
HE sold me to perform the job that I needed. Or at least that's what Bill -
Clinton says--and he is, after all, the President ofthe United States.
That a new factory, even one built by someone lacking the disadvantages of building a factory in a
foreign land, could operate at 500 tons per day
during its maiden voyage was unheard of.

Comment on this entry

(will not be published)
(optional -- Google will not follow)
Yes
 

Type the characters you see in the picture above.

Buy My Book!

small_final_covershot_dropshadow.jpg A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.

Follow Me On:

Twitter Facebook Pinterest Instagram Delectable Flipboard

Most Recent Entries

Plumbing the Depths of Portugal: A Tasting Journey Vinography Images: Rain at Last The Mysterious Art of Selling Direct Critical Consolidation in Wine What Has California Got Against Wineries? Dirty Money for a Legendary Brand Vinography Images: Tendrils Highlights from Tasting Champagne with the Masters Off to Portugal for a Drink Vinography Images: Hazy Afternoon

Favorite Posts From the Archives

Masuizumi Junmai Daiginjo, Toyama Prefecture Wine.Com Gives Retailers (and Consumers) the Finger 1961 Hospices de Beaune Emile Chandesais, Burgundy Wine Over Time The Better Half of My Palate 1999 Királyudvar "Lapis" Tokaji Furmint, Hungary What's Allowed in Your Wine and Winemaking Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Appreciating Wine in Context The Soul vs. The Market 1989 Fiorano Botte 48 Semillion,Italy

Archives by Month

 

Required Reading for Wine Lovers

The Oxford Companion to Wine by Jancis Robinson The Taste of Wine by Emile Peynaud Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch Love By the Glass by Dorothy Gaiter & John Brecher Noble Rot by William Echikson The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode The Judgement of Paris by George Taber The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil The Botanist and the Vintner by Christy Campbell The Emperor of Wine by Elin McCoy The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson The World's Greatest Wine Estates by Robert M. Parker, Jr.