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11.06.2011

Pay For Play Wine Criticism: Everybody On Board

When I first heard about Sam Kim, the New Zealand blogger who was charging wineries to submit wine samples to review, I thought to myself, here's the next guy Robert Parker ought to hire on to the staff at the Wine Advocate. He seems to have the right nose for the business side of wine criticism.

Alas, it seems that one of Parkers current contributors has stolen the idea. Sorry Sam, you've been outflanked.

But wait, this just in: now that the lawyers have all discussed things it's only the Murcia Wine Association (ASEVIN) that wanted money for tasting wines!

I watched, speechless, last week as the kerfuffle known as "Murciagate" unfolded. If you're not plugged in to the internal meta-rumblings of the world of wine criticism (and who can blame you for hiding from that nasty pile of spaghetti) here's how it went down.

A set of e-mails surface concerning a prospective visit by Jay Miller to the Murcia region of Spain in which wineries are asked to pay for the privilege of having their wines tasted by Miller, or for a visit by the same.

Dr. Vino leaps on the story, followed by Mike Steinberger, both of whom offer thoughtful, if damning, perspectives. I might have joined the fray had I not been swimming in jet lag with a lousy internet connection.

Then ASEVIN issues a statement which sounds like it was dictated lawyer to lawyer, indicating that it was the requestor, and intended recipient of all funds associated with this prospective visit by Miller.

It also then emerged that the Wine Academy of Spain earlier solicited 20,000 Euros from the little appellation of Madrid for the pleasure of having Miller visit while he was in town. Turns out poor Madrid couldn't afford it (or didn't see the value).

So while it turns out that Mr. Kim won't actually have any immediate competition in his "pay me to consider reviewing your wines" gig, what we clearly have here is a case of influence peddling. One or more people are using their access to The Wine Advocate as a means of raising funds.

While wineries are used to paying dues to regional marketing associations, and having those dues fund the organizations efforts to promote the region, which often include the very legitimate activities of paying for journalists and critics to come visit (and occasionally paying their speaking fees if they are presenting at a big conference), this "pay us to get your wines in front of the critic" move is of an altogether greasier sort.

But I'll bet you big money, this isn't the first time it's happened. It's just the first time someone has leaked the evidence.

In a world where wine critics still wield considerable influence over pricing in the market (and I'm not just talking here about Parker), it's inevitable that some will use their relationships with these critical outlets to earn a buck. It's the deadly combination of capitalism and politics (aka human nature).

But perhaps this little scandal will do us all some good, and make those who lean towards these kinds of activities a little more hesitant in the future. We can only hope.

And as for Mr. Kim and his pay-for-play sampling program? I find it quite distasteful. Not to mention a violation of every journalistic ethics policy ever published. But Kim isn't a journalist, he's a businessman. And capitalism lets us get away with "caveat emptor." His $34 fee isn't all that different from the ridiculous entrance fees that wineries pay to have their wines in various and sundry competitions around the world. If they're so desperate to be able to put "91 points " somewhere in their marketing materials, let them pay. It's a free (market) world, as they say.

Comments (9)

David White wrote:
11.07.11 at 5:04 AM

Alder,

I'm not bothered by Sam Kim, because he's completely transparent about the fee he charges. You surely receive a boatload of samples -- so Kim is simply providing a not-terribly-expensive way for wineries to make sure he reviews their wine.

The Wine Advocate, on the other hand, pretends to be THE publication that’s standing up for consumers. It has a strict code of ethics, pretends to purchase its own wines, etc. And over the past few years, it has emerged that this is total garbage.

1WineDude wrote:
11.07.11 at 8:11 AM

As of today I am charging wine producers $7000 to submit wine samples to me (the fee covers unlimited samples per year). By my rough calculation, that should net me something like 20 billion dollars in profits. So long, suckahs! I'm gonna go buy a private island!!!

tom barras wrote:
11.07.11 at 1:31 PM

Hmmmm....I wonder about the application of that principle to restaurant reviews? I could do that!

Shebnem wrote:
11.08.11 at 1:08 PM

Reminds me of a foul time in France when I left a Pont L'Eveque in the front pocket of my luggage. It really stinks.

Doug Wilder wrote:
11.09.11 at 2:36 PM

This story has been all over the airwaves in the last week and does make for some interesting reading. Indications of backtracking and postponements seem to indicate there is something fishy somewhere, but until all parties discuss it openly, I think it is premature to point to any particular entity as being aware, or behind it. What I do find disturbing about it is the whole notion of anyone paying to have a critic taste your wine. I head to Oregon for four days on Friday and the only thing I am not paying for is an auction tasting that afternoon. Everything else is coming out of my pocket and I am being as flexible and appreciative as possible with arranging tastings. If you have subscribers that should be enough to cover the overhead of doing the traveling and writing. The most I think reasonable to request of a winery is sample bottles, or their time to meet with me.

Charles Mara wrote:
11.14.11 at 4:50 AM

Hi Alder. I have contacted the Wine Advocate a number of times asking when I could submit my wines. I was told that someone will contact me when to submit my wines by region and varietals. I have heard nothing back from their office. It seems to me that maybe they don't want to take on new wineries which I am not. I have submitted my wines in the past and before I got the word that they would
contact me to submit my
wines they seem to have been lost. Just wondering what is going on now since Robert is not tasting CA wines and has turned the tasting of those wines to others. Maybe you know and I would like to know also on what procedure to take going forward.
Regards,
CFM
Mara winery RRV

Alder Yarrow wrote:
11.14.11 at 12:29 PM

Charles,

Unfortunately I have no idea. Word on the street is that Galloni has told some people he won't be accepting samples -- something to do with his inability to store them at his NY residence. That seems a little crazy given his responsibility for California and the large number of samples that Parker is used to receiving from CA wineries. I don't know what to tell you, other than for everyone's sake, hopefully the WA will figure things out.

Tina Caputo wrote:
11.15.11 at 10:05 AM

Until something like 9 or 10 years ago, reviews for Wine Enthusiast were done by the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. As I recall from my PR days, wineries had to pay around $80/bottle to submit samples (now it's $95). W.E. wasn't getting the $, granted, but unless you were paying BTI to play, your wines weren't getting into the magazine.

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