France, you get a free pass today. The European Common Market Organization is my newest punching bag when it comes to idiotic wine regulations.
If that doesn’t make your blood boil, then you’re not paying attention.
These reforms, which would go into effect in 2009 if adopted, seem to suggest the equivalent action to taking all of the individual Bordeaux appellations and replacing them with just two: “Left Bank” and “Right Bank.” For instance, according to Decanter Magazine, one of the proposed new designations would merge all of the surrounding areas (currently designated Barbera and Dolcetto) with Barolo — making no distinction between those “village” wines and what is certainly one of Italy’s most historical and prestigious wine regions. In all, Italy’s 316 DOCs, 38 DOCGs and 118 IGT appellations would apparently be collapsed to a mere 182 designations.
Now, I’m not in favor of the mass proliferation of wine appellations. I think beyond a certain point there are diminishing returns to the slicing and dicing of terroir into ever finer designations and regulations.
But how could anyone in their right mind think that reducing the number of Italian wine appellations by 75% could possibly be a good thing?
Would one of my European readers explain to me how on earth this travesty of legislation even got out of committee?
Read the full story. And then if you’re an EU passport holder, please, write your parliamentarian, or whatever it is you do when you’re pissed off at the government.