Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week included the debut releases from an ambitious new project in Oregon known as the Zena Crown Vineyard. Owned by Jackson Family Wines and part of their Spire Collection, a designation that unites all of their top-tier wines, these beautifully packaged Pinots are clearly setting themselves up to be a luxury brand from the Willamette Valley. The wines are pretty good, if a bit polished, but for anyone looking to spend top dollar on domestic Pinot Noir, I’m sure they’ll satisfy.
Perhaps on the other end of the spectrum, while still in Oregon, those seeking the more unfiltered, natural side of the spectrum will enjoy the Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir made in a very non-interventionalist style from Biodynamic grapes.
There are a couple more Pinots in there, and a Zinfandel or two for good measure.
Enjoy!
2014 Davies Vineyards “Ferrington Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Mendocino, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry pastilles and a bit of wet chalkboard. In the mouth, candied raspberry and sour cherry flavors mix with a touch of herbs, but an undesirable woody bitterness creeps into the finish along with a bit of alcoholic heat. 14.3% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $60. click to buy.
2012 Cooper Mountain Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberries and herbs and earth. In the mouth juicy and bright flavors of raspberries, bramble, and mixed herbs have a bright quality thanks to excellent acidity. Faint tannins seem to coat the mouth, leaving a chalky sensation as the wine soars on through a long finish. The fruit is quite young-tasting, leading me to believe this wine would benefit from a bit more time in the bottle. 13% alcohol. Biodynamic. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $27. click to buy.
2013 Zena Crown Vineyard “The Sum” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light garnet in color, this wine smells of raspberry and redcurrant and a hint of oak. In the mouth, very polished flavors of candied raspberry and cherry have the vanilla scent of oak, and the faint, velvety tannins of a well-cared-for wine. Excellent acidity makes the fruit quite bright and the flavors linger through a long finish. A classy wine. 12.9% alcohol. Made with 40% whole cluster. 302 cases produced. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $75. click to buy.
2013 Zena Crown Vineyard “Conifer” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of redcurrant and raspberry and dried flowers. In the mouth, gorgeous raspberry and earth and herbal notes mix with dried flowers and a heady berry perfume that wafts away in the finish for a long time. Wonderful citrusy acidity keeps the whole package thrumming with an electric resonance that is quite compelling. 13% alcohol. 240 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $75. click to buy.
2013 Zena Crown Vineyard “Slope” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of cranberry and cherry and a hint of vanilla. In the mouth faint suede-like tannins wrap around a core of cherry and raspberry fruit tinged with a hint of fresh herbs. A nice citrus note kicks into the finish along with sour cherry thanks to excellent acidity. Oak inflected, but very nice. 12.7% alcohol. 348 cases produced. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $100. click to buy.
2011 Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Napa, California Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black pepper and blackberries. In the mouth, blackberries and a touch of smoked sausage mix in an appealing, slightly salty medley backed by excellent acidity. Restrained and quite savory despite pure blackberry fruit, this is a pleasing rendition of Zin that is aging nicely. 14.5% alcohol. 7370 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.
2014 Quivira Vineyards “Black Boar” Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry, chocolate, and raisins. In the mouth, juicy flavors of licorice, blackberry, and black cherry cola mix with mouthwatering brightness thanks to excellent acidity. A hint of chocolate covered raisins lingers in the finish, giving a slightly overripe sensation to the wine, but it is tough not to enjoy its boisterous juiciness. 14.8% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $42. click to buy.
2012 St. Innocent Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of forest floor and a hint of red berries. In the mouth, juicy raspberry and mixed herb flavors merge with a darker forest floor element that is very compelling. Excellent acidity and balance. Delicious. 14.5% alcohol. 948 cases produced. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $40. click to buy.
2014 MacPhail “Mardikian Estate” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of marijuana resin and raspberries. In the mouth, raspberry and raspberry leaf flavors are suffused with a strong sinsemilla flavor that is remarkable, and very appealing. Good acidity and length. 13.8% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $85. click to buy.