Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included some older vintages of California Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and, surprisingly Gewurztraminer. Most were holding up very well after six or so years of age, the best of which was the run-of-the-mill Chardonnay from Thomas Fogarty in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

The real highlights this week, though, were a couple of recent releases from Burgundy producer Joseph Drouhin. I particularly loved the meaty, floral notes of the Gevrey-Chambertin.

There were a couple of notable Syrahs in the mix this week as well, one from the famed Heintz Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast, the other a Santa Barbara bottling from the relatively new label by Steve Clifton called La Voix.

All these and more below.

Enjoy!

2010 Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch – Shop Block” Pinot Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of baked apples and candied lemon rind. In the mouth, wonderfully bright flavors of candied lemon and candied grapefruit mix with a hint of the baked or dried apple note that suggests this wine’s age. Other than that, the vibrant acidity and lush texture would have fooled me into thinking this was a much more recent vintage. Tasty, tasty. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??

2010 Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch” Gewurztraminer, Green Valley, Sonoma, California
Light gold in color, this wine smells of poached pear and canned lychee. In the mouth, flavors of lychee and white flowers mix with pear and a wonderful rainwater flavor that follows the snap of still-bright acidity. There’s a slight heat on the finish, but also notes of rose petals. Aging quite nicely for a wine you’d normally drink quickly. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $29. click to buy.

2010 Thomas Fogarty Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon curd and cold cream. In the mouth, salty flavors of lemon curd and cold cream mixed with wet stone have a wonderful snap and silkiness to them. Mouthwatering to say the least. And delicious. Aging beautifully. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $20. click to buy.

2014 Joseph Drouhin Meursault, Burgundy, France
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers, crushed nuts and a hint of pine resin. In the mouth, saline flavors of lemon rind, grapefruit, and toasted hazelnuts have a sappy, bright juiciness thanks to excellent acidity. Wonderful length and balance. 13% alcohol Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $52. click to buy.

2014 Joseph Drouhin “Proces Premier Cru” Nuits-Saint-George, Burgundy, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of forest floor, berries, and herbs. In the mouth, raspberry and redcurrant and pomegranate flavors have a lean brightness to them, and are shot through with green herbs and a touch of earthiness. Notes of dried flowers and herbs linger in the finish. Lovely, lithe, and delicious. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $129. click to buy.

2014 Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers and a hint of smoked meat. In the mouth, juicy, almost saline flavors of raspberry, blueberry, and redcurrant have a wonderful floral note to them along with fantastic wet-stone minerality. Excellent acidity and length. 13% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5 . Cost: $60. click to buy.

2012 Rex Hill Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of earth and cherries. In the mouth, forest floor and cherry flavors mix with raspberry and a hint of dried flowers. Light, grippy tannins linger in the finish along with a deep earthiness. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2010 Stoller Family Estate “Reserve” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers, hints of caramel, and red apple skin. In the mouth, red apple skin, a touch of leather, and a sweet core of raspberry still remaining, the wine has a lovely balance with great acidity and lightly tacky tannins. Notes of green wood linger in the finish. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2009 Dutton Goldfield “Dutton Ranch – Freestone Hill Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium ruby in the glass with flashes of purple still remaining, this wine smells of cranberry compote. In the mouth, sweet cranberry and cherry flavors mix with leather and crabapple amidst leathery tannins. Good acidity, but the wine has a candied quality that keeps it from being everything it could. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $72 click to buy.

2013 Heintz “Roxy” Syrah, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of white pepper and black cherry. In the mouth, slightly salty blueberry and black cherry fruit has a wonderful lightness to it and very faint tannins layered over a core of wet chalkboard minerality. Quite tasty and delicious. 13% alcohol. 150 cases made. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $46. click to buy.

2014 Martin Ray “The Tower” Red Wine, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of bright cherry fruit, oak and tobacco. In the mouth, sweet oak and cherry fruit flavors are bright with juicy acidity and wrapped in a gauzy skein of tannins that linger with notes of oak in the finish. There’s also some faint alcoholic heat. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $48. click to buy.

2012 Cornerstone Cellars “Stepping Stone” Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of plum, chopped hazelnuts, and green herbs. In the mouth, juicy plum and cherry flavors are almost spicy with zingy acidity and a nice herbal backbone. A slight bit of heat creeps into the finish, but with the spiciness, it reads almost as a hot pepper quality. 14.7% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2014 La Voix Winery “So What – Rancho San Ysidro” Syrah, Ballard Canyon, Santa Barbara, California
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry and blackberry juice. In the mouth, blackberry and black cherry have an angular, lean brightness against a backdrop of herbs and cedar. Excellent acidity. There’s a sweet and sour taste in the finish that makes the mouth water. 14% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??