There’s a new episode available of I’ll Drink to That! Episode 492 features wine writer and critic Jean-Emmanuel Simond.
A grandfather’s business bankruptcy ended up changing the course of Jean-Emmanuel Simond’s life, as a cache of fine, old wines ended up in Jean-Emmanuel’s possession after his grandfather’s hotel closed. The experience of these old bottles would prompt Jean-Emmanuel to learn more about wine, and today he is a writer for La Revue du Vin de France magazine, covering wine regions of France, as well as an importer of Italian wines into France.
On the one hand, Jean-Emmanuel emphasizes his desire to make discoveries in the wine world, finding the next great, as yet unheralded producers. On the other hand, Jean-Emmanuel disagrees with some of the current fashions of the wine world, particularly in regard to white wine. He argues that white wines globally have succumbed to the trend of too early picking, homogeneous underripe flavors, and too much acidity. He suggests that these wines are out of balance, and will not age into fine old bottles. At the same time, he says, most of these wines are drunk too young, with an emphasis on refreshment instead of the layered complexity of a great wine.
Is Jean-Emmanuel correct in his belief about white wines today? He certainly makes an informed and intelligent argument.
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I’ll Drink to That!, one of the world’s top wine podcasts, is hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @leviopenswine