Vinography Unboxed: Week of 7/14/24

Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This past week included some bits and bobs from California and northern Italy among other places. Let’s get started with an inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc from Gainey Vineyard in Santa Barbara, which is one of the region’s longest-running, family-owned vineyards, with a 60 year history spanning 4 generations. It’s not the most electrifying Sav Blanc I’ve had recently, but for the price, it will definitely satisfy with its pretty, clean flavors.

Willamette Valley Chardonnay is definitely having a moment these days, and for good reason. There are some really great ones being made these days. I enjoyed the debut Chardonnay from Eila Wines, a newer boutique producer in the valley from financier-turned-winemaker Peter Sturn. I also tasted another of his Pinot Noirs, which was also tasty.

Movie director Francis Ford Coppola’s Oregon project, Domaine Lumineux, sent along their Brut Rosé of Pinot Noir, which I opened this week and found it competent and pleasurable, if perhaps missing a bit of potential complexity. It spent 3.5 years maturing on the lees in the bottle, and has the texture to prove it.

In addition to the Eila Pinot Noir, I also tasted the Merriam Vineyards Eastside Estate Pinot Noir this week, a single-vineyard bottling from this Russian River producer that definitely showed a cut above their standard bottlings.

Now let’s pop over to Italy for a couple of Barbera bottlings from Marchese Alfieri, a Piedmont producer with a history going back to 1636. The modern Marchese Alfieri story begins in 1990, when the three daughters of Casimiro San Martino di San Germano take over their father’s property and launch the Marchese Alfieri brand. Over the past three decades, these sisters have established a track record of high-quality, sustainable wine production, including some excellent Barbera wines, including their more entry-level “La Tota” bottling, and their Superiore bottling “La Alfiera” which comes in an unfortunately heavy bottle. Both are worth seeking out.

Last but not least, I’ve got another wine to recommend from Brigaldara the venerable producer in Italy’s Valpolicella region. This wine, their basic Valpolicella, represents a very tasty value with its dark fruits, great acidity, and sub-$20 price tag. Pizza party anyone?

Notes on all these wines below.

Tasting Notes

2022 Gainey Vineyard Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara, California
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of passionfruit and ripe kiwi. In the mouth, passionfruit and kiwi notes are bright and pleasant, though with less acidity than I would like. Clean and fresh. 13.4% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $15. click to buy.

2021 Eila Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of golden apples and lemon pith with a hint of oak. In the mouth, lemon pith and golden apple flavors mix with lemon peel and a touch of pink grapefruit as hints of toasted hazelnuts linger in the finish with a hint of vanilla. Good acidity. 12.5% alcohol. 108 cases made. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $65.

2019 Domaine Lumineux “Brut Rosé” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light peach-colored in the glass with medium fine bubbles, this wine smells of raspberries and orange peel. In the mouth, a soft mousse delivers flavors of berries and citrus mixed with a hint of dried herbs. Tart sour cherry lingers in the finish along with citrus peel. Excellent acidity. Aged on the lees for 3.5 years in bottle before disgorging. 12.7% alcohol. LIVE Sustainable certified. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $65.

2021 Eila “Scarlet” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and cranberry fruit. In the mouth, juicy cherry and cranberry flavors are shot through with a hint of flowers and boysenberry. Light, barely perceptible tannins. Very good acidity. Notes of dried herbs in the finish. 13.6% alcohol. 126 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $65.

2022 Merriam Vineyards “Eastside Estate” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry and cranberry fruit. In the mouth, cranberry, raspberry, and forest floor notes have a nice bright citrusy acidity to them, and a lightly fleecy tannic texture. Notes of dried herbs linger in the finish with just a hint of sweet oak. Aged for 12 months in 35% new French oak. 13% alcohol. 200 cases made. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $56. click to buy.

2021 Marchese Alfieri “La Tota” Barbera d’Asti, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and blackberry fruit. In the mouth, blackberry and black cherry flavors mix with orange peel and leathery tannins. Excellent acidity and notes of faint dried herbs and flowers that linger in the finish. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $17. click to buy.

2020 Marchese Alfieri “Alfiera” Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of licorice, black cherry, and blueberries. In the mouth, juicy flavors of black cherry, blueberry, and dried herbs are shot through with orange peel and bright acidity. Hints of licorice, dried flowers, and citrus zest linger in the finish. Lightly powdery tannins gain stiffness over time. 15% alcohol. Comes in an overly heavy bottle weighing 1.54kg when full. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $33. click to buy.

2023 Brigaldara Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy
Light ruby in the glass with blood-red highlights, this wine smells of cherry, cedar, and leather. In the mouth, strawberry and cherry flavors mix with dried herbs and forest floor as lightly leather tannins coat the mouth and gently squeeze the palate. A faint fresh green herb note lingers with hints of oak in the finish made fresh with excellent acidity. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $17. click to buy.

Vinography
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