There are places in Champagne where sometimes you can see nothing but vines. This can be visually arresting, of course, but look deeper, and it’s slightly disturbing. Other than a very few little snatches of green grass , these soils are entirely denuded of life, thanks to a farming regimen that involves heavy tilling and generous use of herbicides. While once simply the standard practice, winegrowers around the world, and even some in Champagne, are rethinking this scorched-earth kind of farming and moving to regimens that regenerate the life in the soil.
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