Many people are unaware that New Zealand produces red wine, and even fewer still that it produces red wines beyond Pinot Noir. Increasingly, though, there’s another red grape that repeatedly demonstrates not only competence but excellence in the hands of New Zealand winegrowers across both the country’s North Island and South Island.
Let’s talk about New Zealand Syrah.
Interestingly, Syrah was one of the very first grape varieties introduced into New Zealand, via Australian James Busby’s home vineyard when he first emigrated to the Bay of Islands region north of Auckland in the 1830s. All those initial vines failed to survive the region’s intense mildew pressure, however.
Nonetheless, according to New Zealand Ampelographer and scholar Dr. Gerald Atkinson, Busby can still claim some credit for New Zealand Syrah, because the cuttings that were imported to New Zealand around 1900 were almost certainly derived from the initial importations of vine material from the hill of Hermitage that Busby made to Australia in the early part of the 19th Century. Busby established several blocks of vines in Australia and then headed to New Zealand, where he would spend the rest of his days.
But back in New South Wales, a horticulturalist and winemaker named William Macarthur nurtured Busby’s vine collection and made selections of the best “Hermitage” vines and then propagated them by the tens of thousands to plant both the Hunter Valley and the Barossa Valley in Australia, as well as to eventually be brought to New Zealand by Viticulturalist Romeo Bragato.
Bragato helped to establish the Waerenga Research Station, which was designed to kick-start the wine industry in New Zealand, but struggled to do so, and the government eventually dissolved the Viticulture Division of its Department of Agriculture. In response, Bragato left the country in frustration. In fact, the Syrah vines planted at the research station there were largely ignored for nearly 60 years until a (finally) burgeoning New Zealand wine industry motivated authorities to clean up the Syrah selection and replant it as an official nursery selection in the early 1970s.
But even then, no one seemed to want it.
So when vintner and soil scientist Dr. Alan Limmer came looking for Syrah in the 1980s, he found a meager selection of 10 Syrah vines that were about to be ripped out in favor of varieties that seemed to have more commercial demand.
Limmer rescued these vines and propagated them for the vineyard he wanted to plant in an unproven area of Hawke’s Bay known as The Gimblett Gravels. Limmer’s Stonecroft Syrahs were immediately (and are still) recognized for their exceptional quality.
“That simple decision by Alan, fundamentally determined the future of New Zealand Syrah,” says Bilancia and Trinity Hill winemaker Warren Gibson. “Without him, we’d be making less interesting wines, because the only clones we’d have access to would be the 470s, the 194, the 383, and these other New World clones that came in much later.”
From those initial commercial plantings in Hawke’s Bay, Syrah has gone on to become something of a signature grape for that region, as well as spreading as far north as Busby’s initial, doomed plantings in the Bay of Islands, and as far south as Central Otago. The mass selection from Stonecroft’s initial plantings goes by many unofficial names, but it remains the most coveted Syrah vine material in New Zealand and may represent as much as 50% of the country’s 1032 acres of plantings.
Shortly after Busby took his cuttings from those Hermitage vineyards and brought them to Australia, all of the vines in the Northern Rhone succumbed to the predations of Phylloxera. That means the oldest vineyards of Australia, along with nearly half of the Syrah plantings in New Zealand, offer the unique chance to taste a version of Syrah from another age.
“It’s good material,” says winemaker Lorraine Leheney, Gibson’s wife and co-founder of Bilancia. “It’s a bit droopy, not upright like the other clones and the berries are more oval than round. It wants to grow in every direction. But it ripens relatively early and makes good wine at low sugars.”
Leheney and Gibson farm perhaps the country’s most spectacular Syrah vineyard, La Collina, a precipitously steep terraced hillside (pictured at the top of this article).
A Maturing Style
Through the 1990s and the early 2000s, New Zealand winemakers took a relatively “modern” approach to Syrah, picking it as ripe as they could get it, and giving it a healthy dose of new oak.
“In the early days, there was an attempt to get as much fruit and oak into the bottle as you could,” says Smith & Sheth owner and winemaker Steve Smith.
“Syrah went down the same path as Pinot at first, with lots of overbearing new wood, where the grape didn’t taste like the grape,” adds Gibson. “We all went to a Guigal tasting and heard they put it in 100% new oak, and we got carried away. “
“There’s still a little bit of that around,” continues Smith, “but I think most people are easing off the oak and realizing that Syrah is a beautiful grape variety in its own right and doesn’t need too much makeup in an attempt to make it prettier.”
I’ve watched New Zealand Syrah steadily improve over the last 15 years. In part thanks to the remarkable expertise of folks like Gibson and Leheney. Their wines, as well as those from brands such as Stonecroft, Smith & Sheth, Craggy Range, Man o’ War, and others, have set a high standard that has lifted the overall quality of Syrah bottlings in the country.
If you’ve not had a chance to taste New Zealand Syrah, you owe it to yourself to get your hands on a bottle. They’re not anywhere as easy to find as a Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, but they’re worth the hunt. I promise.
Tasting Notes
Most of the notes below were made on a visit to New Zealand earlier this year, including some of the older vintage wines, but some notes I’ve pulled from my master database of tasting notes over the last couple of years.
I’ve linked the wines to purchase locations where I could find them, but you will note that many aren’t easily found for sale online in the US. For those wines, I’ve estimated the price as best I can based on what I see internationally.
Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5
2021 Bilancia “La Collina” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry and blackberry and iodine. In the mouth, juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit is wrapped in an incredibly fine fleecy blanket of tannins as plum skin and unripe blackberry linger in the finish. Refined and polished, with a hint of green herbs in the finish. Excellent acidity. Outstanding. Fermented in two open-top fermenters, one fully destemmed, one whole cluster. Aged for 21 months without racking. 13.5% alcohol. $89. click to buy.
2021 Bilancia “Trelinnoe Vineyard” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark, opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit with a floral top note. In the mouth, rich and tangy blueberry and blackberry fruit is wrapped in a muscular, fleecy blanket of tannins. Hints of green herbs linger with a touch of citrus in the finish. Rich, but without heaviness or jamminess, and just the tiniest bit of black pepper spice in the finish. Spends 30 months in barrels without racking. 13.5% alcohol. $90.
2021 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of meaty blackberry and white pepper. In the mouth, faintly salty blackberry, blueberry, and white pepper flavors are shot through with wet pavement minerality. Muscular tannins squeeze the palate through a long finish that has scents of violet and white pepper that eventually give way to a scent of oak. Spends 17 months in a combination of 33% new French and American oak. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $143. click to buy.
2019 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark purple in color, this wine smells of blueberries, smoked meats, wet stone, and a hint of white pepper. In the mouth, deeply stony flavors of blueberry and blackberry are juicy and bright with excellent acidity and a touch of the sourness of unripe blackberries. Faint, powdery tannins hang in a haze through the mouth as blackberry and a touch of sour cherry linger in the finish. Excellent. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap and in a much heavier bottle than it needs to be, weighing 1.6 kg when full (as opposed to their normal bottle, which weighs 1.3 kg full). $96. click to buy.
2019 Craggy Range “Gimblett Gravels Vineyard” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and white pepper. In the mouth. Juicy and bright blueberry, blackberry, and white pepper flavors have fantastic acidity and a stony minerality that is really very pretty. Faint, powdery tannins have a wispy quality, hanging back and letting the fruit do the talking. 13.3% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $40. click to buy.
2023 Greystone “Vineyard Ferment” Syrah, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of wildflowers, earth, and dark berries. In the mouth, gorgeously diaphanous tannins fill the mouth but seem to fade into invisibility as blueberry and citrus peel mix with earth, dried flowers, and chopped green herbs. Fantastic acidity. Gorgeously textured and really unique in character. In the tradition of the winery’s Vineyard Ferment Pinot Noir, this wine is hand-picked and fermented in two small tanks placed outside in the organically farmed vineyard rows where the grapes are grown. The wine goes through 40% whole-bunch fermentation with no temperature control and ambient yeasts. No fining or filtration before bottling. 13.5% alcohol. Not yet released.
2021 Pask “Declaration” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet blackberry and blueberry fruit. In the mouth, blueberry and blackberry fruit take on a sour cherry quality as excellent acidity brightens on the palate. Fine, powdery tannins. Hints of dried flowers linger in the finish. Matures in a combination of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd use barrels. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $45.
2019 Smith & Sheth “CRU Heretaunga” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black fruit and white pepper. In the mouth, wonderfully saline flavors of blackberry bramble mix with white pepper and chopped green herbs amidst boisterous acidity that keeps the whole package crunchy and lean. Woody green notes that suggest some whole-cluster fermentation linger in the finish. Lovely. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $40.
2021 Stonecroft “Reserve” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry and dried flowers. In the mouth, wonderfully juicy flavors of black cherry and blackberry have a nice balance between fruit and the peppery, saline savory qualities that keep the saliva glands gushing. Very fine haze of tannins, excellent acidity. Just a hint of oak lingering in the finish. Spends 18 months in 33% new French oak. 13.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $50.
2020 Stonecroft “Reserve” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry and black cherry. In the mouth, juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit have an astonishing minty freshness to them and a wonderful powdered stone tannic texture that fills the mouth. Excellent acidity keeps everything juicy and bright. Excellent. 13.5% alcohol. $50.
2020 Squawking Magpie “Stoned Crow” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries and dried flowers. In the mouth, the wine proves almost explosively juicy, with ripe and under-ripe blackberries offering a tangy, juicy mouthwatering dance across the palate. Hints of dried herbs and flowers linger in the finish as the salivary glands kick into overdrive. Impressive. 14% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap $30.
2021 Trinity Hill “Homage” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and iodine. In the mouth, juicy, powerful flavors of blackberry and black cherry are wrapped in a tight, muscular fist of tannins that stiffens as juicy blackcurrant and citrus peel flavors linger mouthwateringly on the palate. Powerful but balanced, with a very nice equilibrium and amazing freshness. Some bottle age will improve this wine, but it is tasting very nicely at the moment. Comes from the oldest vines on the property. 70% destemmed, 30% whole-cluster. Fermented in small open top fermenters with hand punchdowns. Aged for 21 months in a combination of 54% new French oak barrels and 5,400 neutral oak tanks. 14% alcohol. $80. click to buy.
2020 Trinity Hill “Homage” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries and blueberries. In the mouth, cool, stony flavors of blackberry and blueberry are backed by a fine-grained, powdered stone tannic spinal column that remains quite supple. Excellent acidity brings notes of citrus peel and dried herbs into the finish, and keeps the wine quite fresh and juicy. Regal and poised. Excellent. 13.5% alcohol. $80. click to buy.
Wines With a Score Around 9
2019 Bilancia “La Collina” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of faintly earthy black cherry and blackberry fruit with a hint of baking spice. In the mouth, baking spice and meaty cherry flavors mix with a touch of dusty earth as fleecy tannins coat the mouth and fresh acidity lets hints of green herbs brighten the palate. Notes of licorice root on the finish. Aged for 20 months in oak. 13% alcohol. $80. click to buy.
2022 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries and blueberries and wet pavement. In the mouth, juicy blueberry and blackberry fruit is wrapped in a supple, fleecy blanket of tannins as stony, bright acidity keeps things very juicy and fresh. Quite pretty, with a hint of floral notes in the finish. Mouthwatering and refined. Spends 17 months in 45% new French and Austrian oak. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $100. click to buy.
2021 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of blackberry, blueberry, and a hint of sweet oak. In the mouth, juicy blackberry and blueberry flavors are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins that stiffens slightly as excellent acidity brings in a hint of chopped green herbal freshness. Citrus peel notes linger in the finish. Structured, but well-balanced and quite pleasurable now, though I suspect it will age beautifully. 27% whole cluster fermentation. Aged for 17 months in 32% new oak. 13% alcohol. $100. click to buy.
2020 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries, blueberries, and fried pancetta. In the mouth, faintly saline flavors of blackberry and dashi mix with blueberries and dried herbs. Fleecy, muscular tannins squeeze the palate slightly, as excellent acidity carries the wine through a long finish. 14% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $100. click to buy.
2019 Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of crushed stones, iodine, blackberries, and black cherry. In the mouth, fleecy fine-grained tannins wrap around a core of iodine, blackberry, blueberry and a hint of chopped green herbs. Excellent acidity keeps things fresh. 65% whole-cluster fermentation. Aged for 17 months in 35% new French oak. 13.6% alcohol. $100. click to buy.
2019 Kusuda Syrah, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of smoked meat and blackberry fruit. In the mouth, extremely juicy acidity makes flavors of blackberry and dried herbs, orange peel, and smoked meat quite fresh and delicious. With a saline mince pie quality in the finish. Destemmed. Aged for 20 months in 20% new French oak. Unfined, coarse filtered. 12.5% alcohol. $180. click to buy.
2019 Mission “Jewelstone” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry and dried herbs with a touch of white pepper. In the mouth, silky textured flavors of blackberry and white pepper mix with dried herbs and a touch of licorice root. Excellent acidity and the finest, powdery tannins that can barely be felt round out the package. Elegant, with the white pepper and herbs dominating the finish. 14% alcohol. $40.
2021 Sacred Hill “Deerstalkers” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and a hint of pepper. In the mouth, blackberry and cassis flavors mix with white pepper and chalky, muscular tannins. Excellent acidity keeps blueberry and blackberry notes lingering in the finish with a hint of florality. Spends 18 months in French oak. 14% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $45.
2021 Smith & Sheth “CRU Omahu” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries and dried black cherries. In the mouth, black cherry and blackberry flavors mix with dried cherry and a hint of brown sugar. Excellent acidity and fine-grained tannins. Notes of oak linger in the finish. Contains 3% Tannat. Spends 22 months in 40% new French oak. 13.8% alcohol. $60.
2019 Smith & Sheth “CRU Heretaunga” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass with ruby highlights, this wine smells of faintly meaty black cherry and blackberries with a touch of baking spice. In the mouth, blackberry, baking spices, smoked meat, and black cherry are wrapped in fleecy tannins and bright with citrus peel acidity. There’s a faint dried herb bitterness that lingers in the finish. Very seamless and complete. Not to mention delicious. Destemmed but not crushed with one pumpover each day. Aged for 14 months in 35% new French oak. 13.5% alcohol. $40.
2022 Stonecroft “Reserve” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of struck flint, blueberries, blackberries, and flowers. In the mouth, faintly saline flavors of blueberry and blackberry fruit are wrapped in a powdery, mouthcoating haze of tannins, as bright acidity makes for a mouthwatering package. Notes of white pepper linger in the finish, accentuated by the powdery texture of the tannins. Ages for 17 months in French oak. Certified organic. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $50.
2022 Stonecroft “Serine Syrah” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of struck match, smoked meat, and blackberries. In the mouth, blackberry and black cherry fruit have a nice peppery and slightly salty edge, as gauzy, powdery tannins coat the palate. Excellent acidity, along with a nice stony minerality, rounds out a very delicious package. Ages for 17 months in 20% new French oak. Certified organic. 12.5% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $30.
2019 Squawking Magpie “Stoned Crow” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry, black pepper, and white pepper. In the mouth, juicy and bright blackberry and blueberry fruit mixes with dried herbs and a touch of white pepper for a classic cool climate profile. Excellent acidity and barely perceptible tannins. Elegant and lovely. Aged for 20 months in a mix of new and old French oak. 13.7% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. $40.
2021 Trinity Hill Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of faintly salty blueberries and black cherries. In the mouth, supple tannins surround faintly salty flavors of blueberry, ink, black cherry, and iodine as hints of green herbs linger in the finish with a touch of peppery bitterness. The tannins are incredibly supple and fine. Fully destemmed with daily pumpovers. Aged for 12–15 months in 5,400-liter French oak tanks. 13.5% alcohol. $30.
2019 Trinity Hill “Homage” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in color with ruby highlights, this wine smells of black cherry and blackberry, black pepper, and a hint of smoked meat. In the mouth, meaty black cherry and blackberry flavors are wrapped in a thick, fleecy blanket of tannins that stiffens gradually as chopped fresh herbs and dried herbs linger with a hint of licorice root in the finish. Excellent acidity. This wine is young yet and will benefit from some more bottle age. Made from several parcels destemmed and fermented separately. Two parcels were fermented with 100% whole clusters, and one with Viognier skins added. Pumpovers once or twice per day. 60% of the wine was matured in 34% new French oak for 18 months. The remainder was aged in neutral 5,400-liter oak tanks for 14 months. 13% alcohol. $80. click to buy.
Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9
2021 Blank Canvas “Element Vineyard” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry and black pepper. In the mouth, muscular, fleecy tannins wrap around a core of blackberry and unripe blackberry fruit with hints of flowers and chopped herbs. The tannins are slightly drying, and there’s a peppery citrusy note in the finish. Excellent acidity. Very fresh in character. 60% whole-cluster fermentation, with a 5 day cold soak before ambient yeast fermentation in an open-top stainless steel fermenter, hand-plunged, 20 days on skins total. Spends 15 months in 35% new French oak before being bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. $45.
2019 Blank Canvas “Element Vineyard” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and flowers with hints of chopped green herbs. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around an herbal, floral, and blueberry fruit core that is bright with fresh acidity. There’s a minty freshness that lingers in the finish. 4-day cold soak before ambient yeast fermentation with 60% whole clusters in an open-top stainless steel fermenter. Hand-plunged with 21 days on skins total. Aged for 15 months in 35% new French oak before being bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. $45.
2021 Craggy Range Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of blackberry and a hint of fresh flowers. In the mouth, blackberry and blueberry flavors mix with a touch of pepper and a hint of licorice as very supple, almost cloudlike tannins fill the mouth. Very good acidity. Aged for 15 months in 23% new oak. 13.2% alcohol. $40.
2007 Dry River “Lovat Vineyard” Syrah, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Dark ruby in the glass, this wine smells of meaty olives and dark fruit. In the mouth, saline blueberry and cherry flavors are shot through with caramelized oak flavors and wrapped in putty-like tannins. Good acidity. Savory. 13.5% alcohol. $100. click to buy.
2019 Greystone Syrah, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of meaty, smoky black cherry and blackberry fruit. In the mouth, salty blackberry and black cherry fruit have a bright, citrus peel acidity and a lovely micro-fleece tannin texture. The salinity makes this wine mouthwatering, as a baking spice and Vegemite note lingers in the finish. Destemmed and fermented with ambient yeasts in small open-top fermenters, with four weeks on skins. Aged for 14 months in 38% new French oak. Certified organic. 13.5% alcohol. $40.
2008 Kusuda Syrah, Martinborough, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of underbrush, oak, and chopped herbs. In the mouth, tight dark fruit flavors are wrapped in leathery tannins and shot through with green herbs and oak notes. Tight and somewhat narrow. Good acidity. 13.2% alcohol. $180.
2022 Smith & Sheth “CRU Heretaunga” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry bramble and a hint of pepper. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around a core of iodine, blackberry, blueberry, and a hint of black pepper. Chopped green herbs linger in the finish. Excellent acidity and freshness. Destemmed but not crushed, with a single pumpover each day. Aged for 14 months in 35% new French oak. 12% alcohol. $40.
2021 Smith & Sheth “CRU Omahu” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry and wet earth. In the mouth, muscular tannins grip the palate and flex, putting the squeeze on blackberry and blueberry flavors shot through with raw ink and chopped green herbs. Brawny, but without being heavy. Excellent acidity. Destemmed but not crushed, with a small portion of whole bunch. Aged for 22 months in 40% new French oak barrels and foudre. 14% alcohol. $60.
2019 Smith & Sheth “CRU Omahu” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of meaty black cherry and blackberry fruit with a hint of leather. In the mouth, fleecy tannins wrap around a faintly saline core of black cherry, blackberry, and a hint of dates. There’s a nice herbal freshness and excellent acidity to round out a compelling package. Destemmed but not crushed prior to fermentation. Two punchdowns each day of fermentation, with a total time on skins between 10 and 35 days. Aged for 20 months in 33% new French oak. 13.4% alcohol. $60.
2022 The Landing Syrah, Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand
Dark garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of iodine, blackberry, and wet earth. In the mouth, rich blackberry and black cherry flavors have a bright, almost citrusy kick thanks to excellent acidity as notes of black cherry and blueberry linger in the finish. Lightly fleecy tannins. Good freshness. Fermented in small open-top fermenters with 25% whole clusters. Foot stomped. Aged for 12 months in 20% new French oak. 13% alcohol. $40. click to buy.
2019 Trinity Hill Syrah, Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry, black cherry, and a hint of black tea. In the mouth, blackberry, black tea, and black cherry flavors have a hint of salinity as well as some dried herbal bitterness. Very good acidity, and a sort of fluffy, fleecy tannin texture. 30% whole-cluster fermentation in separate lots for each vineyard. A small percentage of Viognier skins were included in some batches. Aged for 8 months in 5,000-liter neutral oak tanks. 13% alcohol. $40.
Wines With a Score Around 8.5
2022 Church Road Winery “Tom” Syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of struck match, blackberries, and blueberries. In the mouth, faintly saline flavors of blackberry and blueberry are wrapped in a muscula,r fleecy blanket of tannins that stiffens and squeezes the palate. Stony, earthy notes linger in the finish with a hint of black pepper. Very good acidity, but this one needs some time. Contains 6% Malbec. Spends 17 months in 31% new French oak. 13.1% alcohol. Certified sustainable. $120.
2021 Schubert Wines Syrah, Wairarapa, New Zealand
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry bramble and sour cherry. In the mouth, earthy, herbal flavors of blackberry, blackberry leaf, and plum have a plum skin sourness that is charming. Excellent acidity. Destemmed, cold-macerated, and fermented in stainless steel vats. Left on skins for three weeks. Aged in 35% new French oak. Certified organic. 14% alcohol. $60.
2022 The Landing “Madre” Syrah, Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of rich blueberry and blackberry fruit. In the mouth, ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit is wrapped in fleecy tannins with decent acidity, keeping things fresh. Notes of licorice in the finish. Ripe. Fermented in small oak open-top vats, 40% whole clusters. Aged for 13 months in 33% new French oak before blending, and then another 5 months after blending. 14% alcohol. $100.
