One of my favorite exercises each year involves trying to get a sense of recent vintage quality in Napa through tasting. My usual venue for this is the event known as Premiere Napa Valley, a fundraising auction held by the Napa Valley Vintners Association. As opposed to the star-studded event known as Auction Napa Valley, whose proceeds benefit charity, Premiere Napa Valley raises money for the Napa Vintners organization itself.
In service of that fundraising, members of the organization produce special, often unique lots of wine in quantities between 5 and 25 cases (a full barrel). There are usually between 180 and 230 different auction lots available for bidding, and all of them are made available to taste for members of the trade (as well as some members of the press) leading up to the auction, which is usually held in February.
For years, I made it a habit to attend this tasting and taste as many wines as I could in the time available to me. But recently, the date of the tasting has conflicted with school breaks (and therefore family vacations), so I have had to make do with tasting a smaller portion of these wines at other events and as bottled samples, which the Vintners kindly make available to me when they have them.
The vast majority of these wines are from the same vintage, and usually represent the pinnacle of quality from their makers, giving me a unique window into the potential of the vintage.
The most recent set of Premiere Napa Valley wines I had the opportunity to taste consisted of wines mostly from 2023, a vintage that many heralded as “the vintage of a lifetime.”
Perfectly Cool
There was something particularly special about the 2023 vintage in Napa. It was, overall, the coolest vintage in more than a decade.
Setting up the vintage, the previous winter featured an unusually high amount of moisture, with up to 58 inches of rain in some places, vastly exceeding the region’s typical average of 31 inches for the winter. The winter was also among the coldest in recent memory.
Bud break (when the vines come out of hibernation and begin their growth for the season) occurred in mid-April, later than typical for the region, likely due to the lower temperatures. The spring weather remained cool through flowering in early June, but summer saw warm days and cooler-than-usual nights.
Unusually, however, the temperatures in Napa rarely exceeded 90 degrees, and the valley had to wait until July for its first triple-digit temperatures of the season. There would be only one more day at the end of August when temperatures hit 100 degrees.
The growing season, therefore, was something of a dream for producers: significant banked moisture from the winter to support healthy growth, enough warmth to get things ripe and keep disease pressure down, and no extremes of heat to push sugars and acidity out of balance. Winemakers like to talk about “slow, even ripening” as the holy grail of winegrowing, and 2023 provided the perfect conditions for producers to harvest exceptional fruit at whatever stage of ripeness they preferred.
2023 Napa Cabernet Shines
The wines resulting from this exceptional vintage are, indeed, tremendous. The best among them possess remarkable brightness of fruit, outstanding acidity, and some of the most supple, fine-grained tannins I’ve tasted from Napa. While the nearly endless hangtime available in 2023 allowed some producers to make pretty big wines, most of the wines I tasted were a bit fresher than normal in character, showing a little bit more green herbal characters amidst their ripe fruit than normal.
Since the wines I tasted were barrel samples, however, I didn’t have access to technical specs on the wines, and couldn’t confirm my suspicions that alcohol levels for this vintage were a bit lower than normal.
The real question in my mind, and perhaps in the minds of my readers who know I recently waxed poetic about the epic 2021 vintage in Napa, remains just how the 2023 vintage compares to that vintage, which I called Napa’s best in decades.
In all honesty, I’m not sure I’m ready to make that call based purely on these barrel samples. In an attempt to offer something of an opinion now, I am willing to say that I believe 2023 may have the potential to equal 2021. But at least through the window afforded me by these 60-some-odd unfinished wines, I don’t yet see that 2023 is obviously superior in quality.
Most 2023 Cabernets have yet to be released, though some began to hit the market this past autumn. I look forward to revising my opinion as I get the opportunity to taste finished wines later this year.
Tasting Notes
Though the wines whose tasting notes appear below are not sold directly to the public, they are sometimes resold by those who purchased them at auction. Napa Vintners has made great efforts in recent years to assist consumers who may be interested in getting their hands on these very special bottles of wine.
To that end, they have created a website where you may find some of these bottles on offer (see “where to buy” tab for each wine), though if they are available, they often carry a very high price tag, given that many were purchased at auction for hundreds or even thousands of dollars per bottle.
You may instead choose to do what I do, which is note which of these producers seems to have made particularly exceptional wines, and go in search of their regular release(s) from 2023 for your cellar.
Wines With a Score Between 9.5 and 10
2023 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Judgment of Paris 50th Anniversary” Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
Very dark, inky garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackcurrant, black cherries, and earth. In the mouth, gorgeously supple, fine-grained tannins wrap around a core of dark black cherry and blackcurrant with hints of licorice. There’s a wonderfully savory dried herb note in there as well, as excellent acidity keeps things energetic and fresh through a long finish. Fantastic.
2023 Quintessa “Corona” Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, flowers, and a hint of iron. In the mouth, gorgeously bright flavors of black cherry, blackcurrant, and wet pavement are wrapped in fine-grained tannins and juicy with fantastic acidity. Lovely poise and athletic tension in this wine, with supple tannins that dry slightly as they lengthen through the mouth. Floral notes linger in the finish along with blackcurrant leaf. Oustanding. Vines planted in 1990 sit at the crest of an iron-rich volcanic hill behind the winery.
2023 Beaulieu Vineyard “Maître Cuvée” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry, black plum, and tobacco. In the mouth, juicy black cherry and black plum flavors have a hint of blackberry and licorice as fine-grained tannins coat the mouth, and gorgeous acidity makes the mouth water. There’s a monumental seamlessness to this wine that is extraordinary, and a wonderful balance. Outstanding. 95% Cabernet from Ranch No. 2, and 5% Petit Verdot from Ranch No. 1.
2023 Continuum Estate, Staglin Family Vineyard “Generational Pairing” Red Table Wine, Napa Valley
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, cola, and flowers. In the mouth, juicy and bright flavors of black cherry, Bing cherry, cola, and blueberries are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins. The acidity is fantastic here, bright and juicy, and there’s a hint of espresso in the finish, but mostly the wood is beautifully integrated.
2023 Inglenook “Heritage Blocks” Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackcurrant, blackcurrant leaf, and dark cherry fruit. In the mouth, beautifully detailed blackcurrant and black cherry fruit is shot through with green herbs and wrapped in a fine-grained, athletic skein of muscular tannin. Taut and vibrant, and wonderfully delicious today, this wine will likely be ageless for a long time. Outstanding.
Wines With a Score Around 9.5
2023 Copper Bear “Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Inky opaque purple in the glass, this wine smells of mocha, black cherry, cassis, and licorice. In the mouth, fleecy tannins wrap around a core of black cherry, cassis, and licorice fruit that has a surprising weightlessness to it, as excellent acidity gives this very ripe wine lift and agility. What smelled like brawn comes across as toned and swanky. Not entirely my style in its level of extraction, but hard to ignore the flavors and the impression of nicely balanced power and grace.
2023 Signorello Estate “Two Point Oh” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, black currant, espresso, and dark chocolate. In the mouth, blackcurrant and espresso flavors have a dark nuttiness to them, and supple, fine-grained tannins wrap around the core of fruit. Notes of licorice root and earth linger in the finish with a hint of mocha. Excellent acidity.
2024 Matthiasson “Phoenix Vineyard” Cabernet Franc, Oak Knoll District
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of plums, chopped green herbs, and nut skin. In the mouth, fine-grained tannins wrap around a core of plum, sour cherry, and plum skin, all juicy and bright with excellent acidity. The tannins stiffen with time, leaving plum skin and citrus peel tartness in the finish. Refreshing and bright but built for a long haul in the bottle. I’d like to taste this in 15 years. Organically farmed, old vines.
2023 Morisoli Vineyard, Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark inky garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, blackcurrant, and blueberries. In the mouth, seamless black cherry and blackcurrant flavors mix with licorice and a hint of fresh green herbs as very fine-grained tannins coat the mouth. There’s a sensuous power to this wine that is very appealing, matched with a lovely balance, thanks in part to fantastic acidity.
2023 Turnbull Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherries, boysenberries, and flowers. In the mouth, incredibly juicy flavors of cherry, boysenberries, and plums are bright with fantastic acidity as fine-grained tannins coat the mouth and stiffen with time. Juicy and delicious, with a hint of bitter licorice in the finish. Balanced, elegant, and likely to age beautifully. Aged in a well-seasoned 500L French oak puncheon.
2023 THE GRADE Cellars “French Connection” Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga
Inky purple in the glass, this wine smells of violets, black cherries, cassis, and candied blueberries. In the mouth, gorgeous blueberry and black cherry flavors are shot through with candied violets and hints of vanilla. Supple, velvety tannins coat the mouth and provide a sensuous cushion for the fruit. Excellent acidity keeps things fresh, and despite the ripeness, this wine has an effortless quality as it floats across the palate. This is why Thomas Rivers Brown gets the big bucks, I guess. Aged for 20 months in 100% new French oak.
2023 Silver Oak “State Lane Legacy” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherries, crushed nuts, and blueberries with a hint of oak. In the mouth, juicy blueberry and black cherry flavors are wonderfully bright thanks to excellent acidity. Fine-grained, velvety tannins coat the mouth as this wine sits regal and poised on the palate. Outstanding wine from a spectacular vineyard site. Contains 19% Petit Verdot.
2023 Gallica, Snowden Vineyards, Trois Noix “Phenolic Femmes” Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherries, plums, green herbs, and flowers. In the mouth, bright plum and cherry flavors mix with chopped green herbs, dried flowers, and a bit of umami. Fine tannins coat the mouth as brilliant acidity keeps things fresh. There’s a faint salty, struck-match quality that lingers in the finish along with the stony tannins.
2023 Nickel & Nickel “John C. Sullenger” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, black currant, and a hint of cola. In the mouth, juicy, expressive black cherry, blueberry, and cola flavors are wrapped in a fine-grained, fleecy blanket of tannins as excellent acidity keeps things fresh and even a little minty through a long finish. Poised and expressive, with sweet oak that emerges only on the finish.
2023 Foley Johnson “Peral Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherries, blueberries, licorice, and cassis. In the mouth, outstanding acidity makes flavors of blackberries, black cherries, and candied blueberries juicy and boisterous. The fleecy tannins coat the mouth and hang in the background, stiffening slightly as the bright fruit takes center stage. Extracted and powerful but not brawny, thanks to the mouthwatering brightness.
2023 Ovid Napa Valley “MMXXIII” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherries, flowers, and an appealing, darker, smokier note. In the mouth, rich black cherry and cassis flavors are wrapped in muscular, fleecy tannins that coat the mouth and stiffen with time. Excellent acidity keeps the wine fresh, while hints of earth and herbs enter the finish. Includes small amounts of Cabernet Franc. Aged in large-format barrels.
2023 Acumen “5.71 Carats” Cabernet Franc, Atlas Peak
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries and blackcurrants. In the mouth, rich and juicy flavors of black cherry, black plum, and roasted nuts have a lovely supple tannic texture and notes of licorice and violets that linger in the finish. Outstanding. Cabernet Franc blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.
2023 Ink Grade “Prophet’s Water” Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries, blueberries, wet pavement, and a hint of violets. In the mouth, intensely bright and juicy flavors of black cherry and blueberries are stony and savory, with a supple, fine-grained tannic texture. Excellent acidity. Feels loaded like a coiled spring. Impressive.
Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5
2023 Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry, cola, and licorice. In the mouth, black cherry and licorice flavors have a nice aromatic sweetness as fleecy tannins coat the mouth, and excellent acidity keeps the mouth watering. Licorice and black cherry linger in the finish with a hint of alcoholic heat. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, Carménère and Cabernet Franc.
2023 Tamber Bey Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and cola. IN the mouth, rich and faintly sweet flavors of black cherry, cola, and a hint of cocoa powder are juicy and bright thanks to excellent acidity. Rich and tasty, with extremely restrained, powdery tannins.
2023 Favia “Scalene Dream” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Inky opaque garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherry and cassis with hints of green herbs. In the mouth, fine-grained tannins coat the mouth and have a stony quality as they stiffen around a core of black cherry, cassis, and blueberry shot through with a hint of dark-roast espresso. Very fine, with excellent acidity. This wine includes the first vintage of Cabernet from Favia’s new Oakville Estate.
2023 Palmaz Vineyards “Clone 6” Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville
Very dark garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherries, cassis, flowers, and herbs. In the mouth, fleecy tannins coat the mouth, drying it slightly, as they surround a core of juicy black cherry and cassis with hints of purple SweetTart. Notes of licorice and dusty earth linger in the finish. Excellent acidity. The wood is very well integrated here.
2023 Amulet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry, black plum, and liquid ink. In the mouth, rich black cherry and blueberry notes have a stony, wet pavement quality and great acidity as muscular, fine-grained tannins coat the mouth and dry it slightly. Intense, with a monumental quality, but not too brawny.
2023 Brown Estate Vineyards “In Chaos, Order” Cabernet Sauvignon, Chiles Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet cherry, tobacco, and dark chocolate. In the mouth, black cherries, dark chocolate, and honey-roasted nuts have a fleecy texture thanks to supple tannins, and a rich quality without being too extracted. Excellent acidity.
2023 La Jota Vineyard Co. Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
Inky, opaque purple in color, this wine smells of blueberries and black cherries. In the mouth, muscular, even brawny tannins coat the mouth as juicy acidity makes black cherry and blueberry flavors bright. A darker, wet earth note rumbles underneath, as sweet oak emerges in the finish. Needs a lot of time.
2023 Grgich Hills Estate, Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery “Re-Generation” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, earth, and dried herbs. In the mouth, muscular tannins coat the mouth and wrap around a core of black cherry, earth, licorice root, and wet pavement. Very good acidity keeps things fresh in the mouth, and while the tannins stiffen with time, they remain fairly supple. Nonetheless, this wine will benefit from some aging.
2023 Bella Union Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of sweet black cherry and cola. In the mouth, juicy cherry cola flavors are wrapped in a fine, fleece blanket of tannins that coats the mouth and stiffens slightly. There’s a whisp of alcoholic heat in the finish, but the fruit is pure and bright with excellent acidity. Sweet oak emerges on the palate over time.
2023 Hourglass “Gran Miscetis” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky, opaque purple in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and mocha. In the mouth, black cherry, mocha, cola, and cassis flavors are wrapped in fleecy tannins that stiffen with time. There’s a bit of alcoholic heat in the finish here, but enough acidity to keep things feeling very fresh and vibrant. Rich and somewhat opulent. 100% See Clone Cabernet Sauvignon.
2023 Honig Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries, blueberries, and cassis. In the mouth, juicy black cherry and blackcurrant flavors are bright with excellent acidity and wrapped in a fine-grained blanket of tannins that stiffens slightly with time. Green herbs and blackcurrant linger in the finish with a hint of blueberry and sweet oak. Contains 2% Merlot and 1% Malbec. Aged in 100% new French oak.
2023 O’Shaughnessy Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
Very dark, opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries and chocolate-covered blueberries. In the mouth, dark black cherry and blueberry notes are shot through with the pencil lead of oak and a darker, earthier note. Fleecy tannins coat the mouth and squeeze the palate as the wine finishes with a hint of licorice. Very good acidity. Aged in French oak for 21 months.
2023 TATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder
Very dark garnet in the glass with a faint haze, this wine smells of black cherries and blackberries. In the mouth, wonderfully bright acidity marries with blackberry, black cherry, and unripe blackberry fruit, leaving a slightly tangy sour note like eating a handful of berries, some of which are ripe and some of which are underripe. Light, fleecy tannins stay supple, and the wine has a lovely zip thanks to excellent acidity. Very pretty. Contains 5% Merlot.
2023 The Vineyardist “The Vineyardist” Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District
Inky opaque garnet in color, this wine smells of struck match, black cherries, and licorice. In the mouth, thick, muscular tannins squeeze the palate as fresh, bright black cherry and blueberry flavors mix with licorice and hints of green herbs. There’s a stony underbelly to this wine and a lovely freshness thanks to excellent acidity.
2023 Erikson & Caradin “Ivy & Thistle” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of flowers, cracked pepper, black cherries, and black plum. In the mouth, bright and juicy black plum, black cherry, and blackcurrant jam flavors are shot through with a spicy black pepper quality that is very disarming. Fleecy tannins coat the mouth as excellent acidity keeps things fresh. The tannins stiffen with time, and there’s a bright, tangy plum skin quality to the finish.
Wines With a Score Around 9
2022 The Vice “Force of Nature” Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet cherries, plums, and espresso. In the mouth, bright cherry fruit is wrapped in fleecy tannins and shot through with nutty mocha and espresso notes of toasted oak with hints of vanilla and licorice. The tannins are supple and the acidity bright. With some time, I think the oak will integrate more.
2023 Coronet “Lady Liberty Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet with purple highlights, this wine smells of sweet black cherries and chocolate-covered blueberries. In the mouth, rich, slightly sweet black cherry and blueberry flavors are shot through with dark chocolate and nestled into a fleecy blanket of tannins. Rich, ripe, and extracted, but with enough acidity to keep the wine lively. A bit overdone for my taste, but will likely wow many. Lady Liberty Vineyard is located on Napa Valley’s southernmost alluvial fan and consists of five-plus acres of 30-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines. The 2023 vintage is the inaugural vintage of Coronet. Aged in 100% new French oak.
2023 Fantesca Estate & Winery “Prelude” Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga
Very dark, opaque garnet with purple highlights in the glass, this wine smells of black plums, black cherries, and blackberries. In the mouth, rich and ripe and faintly sweet flavors of black cherry and black plum are shot through with pipe tobacco and cedar. Thick, fleecy tannins coat the mouth and stiffen slightly with time, though they remain fairly supple and fine-grained. Very good acidity. Brawny but not too aggressive.
2023 Chimney Rock Winery “Tomahawk Vineyard Unfiltered” Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of sweet black cherry, mocha, and cassis. In the mouth, black cherry, blueberry, and licorice notes are shot through with sweet mocha and dark chocolate. The tannins are thick and fleecy, but remain supple. Very good acidity.
2023 VGS Chateau Potelle “40th Anniversary Cuvée” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherries and blueberries. In the mouth, black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry flavors are wrapped in a thick blanket of fleecy tannins as notes of dried herbs and licorice root linger in the finish. Very good acidity keeps things fresh. There’s a nice floral top note here as well. Includes the addition of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.
2023 Grieve Family Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of passionfruit and guava. In the mouth, bright, salty passionfruit, kiwi, and green guava flavors have a nice zip thanks to excellent acidity. There’s a light chalky texture in the finish with a hint of nut skin.
2023 Euclid Wines “Trifecta” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of violets and sweet black cherries. In the mouth, juicy and bright black cherry and cassis flavors have an aromatic sweetness to them as floral notes and a hint of nut skin creep into the finish. The tannins are fine-grained and slightly drying, but there’s good acidity here. The mocha notes of oak linger in the finish.
2023 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder
Inky, opaque purple in the glass, this wine smells of ink and black cherries, and earth. In the mouth, massive, muscular tannins coat the mouth as black cherry and blueberry notes mix with sweet oak and earth. The tannins stiffen with time, but very good acidity keeps things fresh on the palate. A big wine that needs time.
2023 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry, cola, and a hint of struck match. In the mouth, black cherry and cola flavors have a faint salinity to them as fleecy tannins coat the mouth, and very good acidity keeps things fresh on the palate. Rich and ripe but with enough energy and tension to keep my interest.
2023 Morlet Family Vineyards “Le Fabuleux Franc” Cabernet Franc, Oakville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet black cherries and black plums. In the mouth, sweet black cherry and cocoa flavors mix with cola and a hint of blackberries. Sweet oak emerges in the finish as fine-grained tannins coat the mouth. There’s a lot of polish here, along with ripeness.
2023 Reynolds Family Winery, Caldwell Vineyard “RFC” Marselan, Coombsville
Inky garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries, black cherries, and toasted oak. In the mouth, fleecy tannins coat the mouth as flavors of sweet oak, blackberry, black cherry, and roasted nuts swirl on the palate. The nuttiness continues in the finish, along with slightly bitter notes of toasted oak. The tannins remain supple and plush, though they begin to dry the mouth a bit. Certainly the classiest Marselan I’ve ever tasted.
2023 Blackbird Vineyards “Bluebird of Happiness” Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, with purple highlights, this wine smells of black plum and black cherries. In the mouth, rich black plum flavors are wrapped in a blanket of fleecy tannins and shot through with sweet oak. There’s a hint of alcoholic heat in the finish, but bright, juicy acidity keeps things fresh as roasted nuts, and mocha linger on the palate. Contains Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9
2023 Arietta “Lot 88-111” Red Table Wine, Napa Valley
Inky opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet oak, black cherries, blueberries, and cassis. In the mouth, drying tannins coat the mouth and suck away some of the moisture, while remaining supple. A core of black cherry and cassis compete for attention with the oak, and fight it somewhat to a draw. Very good acidity keeps this from being too rich, but I wish for less wood influence. A blend of two lots, one Cabernet Sauvignon usually destined for the “88 Keys” wine and the other a Merlot for the “One Eleven” bottling. Aged in 100% new oak for 28 months.
2023 Rutherford Ranch Winery “Abela Vineyard ‘Charlie’s Reserve'” Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of pure black cherries and a hint of sweet oak. In the mouth, beautifully juicy black cherry and blueberry notes have a lively briskness thanks to excellent acidity, but also some obvious alcoholic heat that creeps up the back of the throat. The tannins are supple and velvety.
2023 Long Meadow Ranch Winery Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of plum, cherries, and tobacco. In the mouth, plum, mocha, and dried herb flavors are wrapped in a thick, fleecy blanket of tannins and scented with roasted nuts. Very good acidity and nice length.
2023 JennaMarise Wines, Robert Foley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries, dark chocolate, and cassis. In the mouth, thick, putty-like tannins surround a core of sweetish black cherry and blueberries infused with toasted oak. Muscular and broad, the wine sits heavy on the palate as the tannins slightly dry the mouth. Too extracted for my taste.
2023 Doi Da Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in color with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherry, cassis, toasted oak, and wet pavement. In the mouth, Bright juicy acidity makes black cherry and cassis flavors boisterous on the palate, but the wood is thick here and overtakes the fruit, leaving a nutty sawdust note on the palate as the tannins dry the mouth a bit. This wine is showing too much wood for my taste.
2023 Faust “The Pact” Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet black cherries, blueberries, and a hint of struck match. In the mouth, fleecy tannins wrap around a core of faintly sweet black cherry, cassis, blueberries, and cocoa powder tinged with oak. Very good acidity, but the tannins thicken and dry the mouth as they do. Seems slightly over-extracted.
2024 Hyde Vineyard Estate “Larry Hyde” Pinot Noir, Los Carneros
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black raspberries and plums. In the mouth, very ripe black raspberry and plum flavors are wrapped in gauzy tannins. Very good acidity. Dark in complexion, with a little sweetness, but not jammy. 100% Pinot Noir from 7 different clones.
2023 Frank Family Vineyards “Winston Hill Block 5 – Heart Block” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet, grapey black cherry and blackberry jam. In the mouth, sweetish black cherry and blackberry flavors are high-toned and have a little alcoholic heat to them, as fine-grained tannins slightly dry the mouth. Very good acidity.
Wines With a Score Around 8.5
2023 La Sirena, Materra | Cunat Family Vineyards “Helluva Dream” Grenache, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry jam, espresso, and herbs. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around a core of dark berries, oak, and a bit of spice. Very extracted and rich. Feels a bit heavy-handed. Decent acidity. A blend of fruit from two brand new estate vineyard sites – Barrett & Barrett’s “Hell’s Half Acre” Grenache in Calistoga, and Materra’s “Field of Dreams” Grenache in Oak Knoll.
2023 S. R. Tonella Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry and licorice. In the mouth, massive, brawny tannins grip the palate as flavors of black cherry and licorice sit somewhat heavy on the tongue. Decent acidity. Feels too extracted for my taste.
2023 MTGA Wines “Saint Coombs” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet black cherry and candied blueberries. In the mouth, candied flavors of black cherry and blueberry have very nice, bright acidity, but remain somewhat high-toned, with fine-grained, tight tannins. The flavors seem lifted off the palate, a little hollow, and somewhat ethereal and high-octane. There’s a little heat in the finish.
2023 GRO Wines “Polaris Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
Inky opaque purple in the glass, this wine smells of sweet oak, black cherries, blackberries, and blueberries. In the mouth, massive oak-driven tannins coat the mouth, dry it out, and then squeeze, leaving the sweetish black cherry fruit to fend for itself as the palate grapples with the surfeit of wood. Overoaked. There’s decent acidity, but that doesn’t help with the tannins that need scraping from the teeth.
2023 Amici Cellars “Beckstoffer Heritage Blend” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Inky opaque garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherry, raisins, and roasted fig. In the mouth, thick, fleecy tannins wrap around a core of jammy black cherry, toasted oak, licorice, and cola flavors. Rich, ripe and very extracted. Decent acidity.
2023 HQ Winery “Institution Wines – Top of the World” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Inky, opaque garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet black cherries and mocha. In the mouth, rich, ripe flavors of black cherry and blackberries are sealed in an envelope of sweet oak with decent acidity to keep from being too thick on the palate. Nonetheless, this is a teeth-staining, ripe package that is a bit over the top for my tastes.
2024 Lola Wines Albarino, St. Helena
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet steel, lime zest, and white flowers. In the mouth, tart green apple and lime pith mix with citrus peel and wet stone. There’s a faint salinity here, and a nice brightness thanks to excellent acidity. The wine is slightly leesy, with a light grip, probably thanks to the battonage through all 8 months of the wine’s elevage. Regenerative Organic Certified grapes. Fermented in neutral oak barrels with ambient yeasts. Bottled unfined and unfiltered after 8 months of elevage.
Wines With a Score Between 8 and 8.5
2023 Nemerever “Hillside” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of somewhat grapey black cherry and sweet oak. In the mouth, sweetish flavors of black cherry cough syrup and sweet oak are wrapped in a thick blanket of fleecy tannins that gradually dries out the mouth. Decent acidity, but this is over-extracted to my taste.
2023 VinRoc “Red Lava” Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherry, cassis, and licorice. In the mouth, sweetish black cherry and licorice flavors are extracted and ripe, with some alcoholic heat that washes up the back of the throat. Good acidity keeps things fresh, but the wine has a distinctly high-octane character that is a little off-putting.
