Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up on my doorstep asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have arrived recently.

This past week, I was introduced to a new sparkling wine project in California called Westborn, a collaboration between three winemakers, Weston Eidson, Russell Bevan, and Australian Nathan Reeves. With a focus on blended wines rather than single-vineyard expressions, they have assembled vineyard parcels from around Napa and Sonoma and then produced a series of long-lees-aged bottlings. I tried three of them last week: their perpetual cuvee, a blend of reserve wines and the 2020 vintage, their 2018 vintage Brut, and their 2019 rosé. All three are excellent, with my favorites being the vintage Brut and the rosé. They’re classically styled, if slightly on the riper side of fruit expression, but quite delicious.

I was also newly introduced last week to Starfield Vineyards, a project up in El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills. Brothers Tom and Rob Sinton own a 67-acre property east of Placerville with 28.23 acres of grapes planted to 16 different varieties, primarily those traditionally from the Rhône. The two employ sustainable and regenerative practices and are in conversion to full organic certification. This week I’m recommending four of their wines. My favorite of the four is their lithe, bright Grenache, which is just begging to be chilled down and enjoyed on a warm spring day.

Lastly, I got the chance to taste a couple of mature vintages from Napa this week. The 2009 vintage from the Mascot was a nicely matured, classic Napa red, with the oak integrating nicely at this point in the wine’s development. Made from the younger vines at Harlan Estate, BOND, and Promontory, it delivers what Napa wine lovers want in a Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2016 vintage of Continuum takes that up a notch, and despite somewhat elevated alcohol, manages to deliver a balanced, delicious glass of rich fruit and mocha notes that you would expect from the top of Pritchard Hill. Both wines can be purchased in these vintages relatively easily online.

Notes on all these wines below.

Tasting Notes

NV Westborn Brut “Perpetual Reserve NV.01” Sparkling Champagne Blend, North Coast, California
Light yellow-gold in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, lemon curd, lemon peel, and golden apples. In the mouth, golden apples, and lemon peel flavors are borne on a voluminous mousse as more tart notes of apple skin and berries linger in the finish with a hint of salinity. A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir, and 8% Pinot Meunier from the 2020 vintage, mixed with 50% perpetual reserve by volume. Ages for 37 months on the lees in bottle. 12.5% alcohol. 4 g/L dosage. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $88. click to buy.

2018 Westborn Brut Champagne Blend, North Coast, California
Light yellow-gold in the glass with medium-fine bubbles, this wine smells of candied lemon peel, cashews, chamomile, and hints of buttered sourdough. In the mouth, a moderately smooth mousse delivers flavors of golden apples, lemon peel, orange zest, and a faintly saline grapefruit note tinged with vanilla. A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. 12.5% alcohol. Spends 9 months aging in barrel and then 74 months on the lees in bottle after secondary fermentation in the bottle. 5 g/L dosage. 280 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $120. click to buy.

2019 Westborn Brut Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir, North Coast, California
Light copper-pink in color with medium-fine bubbles, this wine smells of hibiscus, berries, and wet chalkboard with a hint of something more savory and herbal. In the mouth, faintly saline flavors of unripe blackberries, redcurrants, raspberries, and citrus peel have a lovely zip and a wonderfully smooth-textured mousse. Hints of red apple linger in the finish. 12.5% alcohol. Spends 6 months aging in barrel and then 52 months on the lees after secondary fermentation in the bottle. 4 g/L dosage. 210 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $150. click to buy.

2024 Starfield Vineyards “Hope Rising” White Blend, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apples, green melon, pears, and a hint of white flowers. In the mouth, green apple and pear flavors have a hint of apricot pit and yellow herbs, as well as a touch of wet pavement minerality. Pretty flavors, but I find myself wishing for a bit more acidity here. A blend of 45% Marsanne, 45% Roussanne, and 10% Viognier aged for 8 months in 4% new French oak. 13.4% alcohol. 181 cases made. Closed with a screwcap. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2023 Starfield Vineyards Grenache, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills, California
Light garnet in the glass with ruby highlights, this wine smells of strawberries, flowers, and dried herbs. In the mouth, lightly grippy tannins coat the mouth as strawberry and herb notes brighten the palate with decent acidity and a nice dried-flower finish. I find myself wishing for just a little more acidity, but this is a lovely wine that will chill down nicely. Aged for 18 months in 15% new French oak. 14.1% alcohol. 378 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $42. click to buy.

2023 Starfield Vineyards Counoise, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries, bramble, and dried herbs. In the mouth, faintly grippy chamois tannins coat the mouth as berries and more savory herb and road dust notes linger in the finish. There’s a floral top note here that is compelling, and decent acidity. Aged for 18 months in 24% new French oak. 12.5% alcohol. 95 cases made. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $38. click to buy.

2023 Starfield Vineyards “The Miner’s Inch” Red Blend, El Dorado, Sierra Foothills, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, blackberry, and flowers. In the mouth, fleecy tannins coat the mouth as juicy flavors of blackberry, black cherry, and raspberry have a lovely bouncy brightness, thanks to very good acidity. The sum is greater than the parts here, as this wine delivers a very delicious package. A blend of 30% Grenache, 17% Aglianico, 14% Petite Sirah, 14% Tempranillo, 9% Cinsaut, 9% Mourvedre, 4% Roussanne, and 3% Counoise aged for 18 months in 23% new French oak. 14.2% alcohol. 208 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $22. click to buy.

2009 The Mascot Proprietary Red, Napa Valley, Napa County, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of mocha, dark chocolate, black cherry, and vanilla. In the mouth, rich black cherry, ripe bing cherry, and cedar flavors are shot through with excellent acidity. Fleecy tannins surround the core of fruit and turn muscular as the wine works its way through a long finish. Ripe, but relatively balanced. Made from the younger vines on all the Harlan-owned properties. Contains small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $190. click to buy.

2016 Continuum Red Blend, Napa Valley, Napa County, California
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of violets, cherries, black cherries, and licorice. In the mouth, black cherry and black plum flavors mix with licorice, all under a thick, weighted blanket of velvety tannin that tightens perceptibly on the palate. There’s a dusty quality here that lingers in the long finish with great acid, and little sign of the wine’s prodigious 15.1% alcohol. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc, 18% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot. Spends 21 months aging in 66% new French oak, along with one concrete amphora. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $268. click to buy.