Morning light rakes across the front of the hill of Somló, highlighting one of the hundreds of small buildings that winemakers often have in their vineyards. These structures, which range from huts to more substantial homes, often have no electricity or running water, and are used both practically and for pleasure. They’re an easy place to get out of a rainstorm, but also a great place for picnics and weekend respites when the weather is nice. As almost all the winemakers in this little Hungarian wine region live at some distance from the hill itself, they’re also someplace to crash after the end of a long day in the vineyard.

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