Chris Whitcraft is not subtle. "This is the best Pinot Noir in California," he said, as he poured my glass. While I'm not willing to make the same claim, I will say that the wine I tried reflects some of his brash confidence. Thankfully, that confidence is lacking in arrogance, and is just the way that Whitcraft operates -- he's an ordinary guy who is one hundred percent passionate about what he does. If you want to get a sense of his personality, you need go no further than his newsletters, which are honest and lacking in all pretense.
Whitcraft Winery is the seemingly inevitable outcome of a career that Chris has spent in the winery business, first as a retailer, then journalist, then producer, and now vintner. For nearly 20 years, Whitcraft has been weaving his way through the California wine industry, and the relationships that he has built in the process seem to be serving him in good stead. He currently sources grapes from several top-tier vineyards including Bien Nacido, French Camp, Hirsch Vineyards and Melville among others. He's on his fourth or fifth vintage now, and going strong.
Whitcraft's passion is for single vineyard, small-lot Pinot Noir, but he also produces a Chardonnay as well as a Lagrein -- a dark, rich, red varietal I hadn't heard of until Chris introduced me to it.
All of his wines are treated with an old world delicacy and attention that is admirable:
"All of the reds and most of the whites are never fined, filtered or pumped and the smallest amount possible of sulfur is used. No other chemicals, other than natural yeast and, if necessary, natural acids are used. This requires a much larger effort than most other wineries are willing to do. We don't even use electricity unless absolutely required."
This old world, tradition-rich mentality is to a certain extent reflected in the wines, which are a fusion of both traditional Burgundy character and new world fruit.
Bright ruby in color, this wine has a dusty nose with scents of earth and just the slightest touch of farmyard aroma that drifts over some hints of the red fruit to come. In the mouth it is less restrained than you would have expected with that nose -- ripe strawberry and raspberry flavors dominate the palate -- extracted but not entirely over the top, tapering to a nice finish.
Try this one with a slow roasted pork shoulder.
Overall Score: 8.5/9
How Much?: $30
A wine book like no other. Photographs, essays, and wine recommendations. Learn more.
Warm Up: The North Fork of Long Island I'll Drink to That: Kareem Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards 2015 Family Winemakers Tasting: August 16, San Francisco I'll Drink to That: Ryan Looper of T. Edward Wines Lost Treasures in the Sierra Foothills: The Wines of Renaissance Vineyards Warm Up: The Wachau I'll Drink to That: Leo Alzinger of Weingut Alzinger Petaluma Gap Wine Tasting: August 8th, Petaluma, CA I'll Drink to That: Monica Samuels of Vine Connections Vinography Images: Cool Climate Chardonnay
Wine Will Never Smell the Same Again: Luca Turin and the Science of Scent Forlorn Hope: The Remarkable Wines of Matthew Rorick Debating Robert Parker At His Invitation Passopisciaro Winery, Etna, Sicily: Current Releases Should We Care What Winemakers Say? The Sweet Taste of Freedom: Austria's Ruster Ausbruch Wines 2009 Burgundy Vintage According to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Charles Banks: The New Man Behind Mayacamas Wine from the Caldera: The Incredible Viticulture of Santorini Why Community Tasting Notes Sites Will Fail Chateau Rayas and the 2012 Vintage of Chateauneuf-du-Pape A Life Indomitable: The Wines of Casal Santa Maria, Portugal Bay Area Bordeaux: Tasting Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernets Forgotten Jewels: Reviving Chile's Old Vine Carignane The First-Timer's Guide to Les Trois Glorieuses of Hospices de Beaune