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12.23.2008

American and Italian Wine: Movin' on Up!

I'm a proud papa, though I don't think myself at all unique in my position. When my little daughter figured out how to roll over this week and shake her head back and forth, I knew it was only a matter of time before she would get her MENSA membership card and first Olympic gold medal.

Nothing quite stirs our emotions like the successes of our own children, but I have to say I got a little verklempt last week more than once over happenings in the wine world.

I know, I know. I am a total and complete wine geek. But what can I say. I really did have a "moment" when I heard that for the first time ever in history British wine drinkers, those notorious Francophiles, were buying more American wine than French.

The implications of this are quite staggering when you think about it. What this means really is that California wine (95% of US exports) outsold French wine in the UK for the first time in recorded history.

Commentators chalk this up to "television advertising, big brands and cheap rosé" a claim that makes me scratch my head a little as I'm not entirely sure what TV and cheap rosé have to do with it. Rather, I think we've probably been aided more by the falling strength of the dollar and perhaps France's own difficulties in the wine department.

Speaking of which, my second moment of pride this month came when I heard that Italy was poised to become the world's largest producer of wine, knocking France out of a position it has held for the last decade.

Of course, judging success by purely the volume of wine produced is a tricky business as the French can tell you, having dealt with massive oversupply of wine in the bottom end of the market many times. But I have no reason to believe that this development results purely from growth in Italy's lowest quality wines. In fact, if statistics are to be believed, the number of Italian wines that receive some level of certified quality designation continues to rise at a greater rate than production. Which means Italy is not only making more wine, it's making more higher quality wine than ever.

So this month America and Italy get gold stars they can take home and hang up on their refrigerators. I'm damn proud of both of them.

Comments (3)

12.24.08 at 8:25 AM

fish don't fry in the kitchen, beans don't burn on the grill...

I am as big of a fan of Italian wine as anyone and Italy is indeed making more high-quality wine than ever before (Apulia's production of quality wines is growing faster than any other region). But too much wine is still being distilled (read subsidized) by the EU.

Happy holidays, Alder!

rachel wrote:
12.25.08 at 1:13 PM

I am still trying to figure out the whole white lambrusco thing...

Dylan wrote:
12.26.08 at 6:17 PM

Congratulations on the first head shakes. I have a friend who is going through the same process as a recent father. Everything his child does sets him into genuine awe, well, with exception to the late night crying.

Thanks for your response on the samples, I read the supplement post you suggested; that wine party was such great idea. Definitely a fun and worthwhile tradition to make use of your surplus.

As for the big news, both seem to be hard hits to France; I wonder if this is the first time they're shaking their heads.

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