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08.07.2010

2008 Clos de los Siete Red Wine, Mendoza, Argentina

clos_siete_08.jpgFifty miles south of the city of Mendoza the valley of Tunuyan feels less like a valley and more like a vast, kneeling supplicant to the immediate, looming bulk of the Northern Andes mountains. Though the valley floor is massive -- sweeping away from the jagged, snow capped peaks in every possible direction as if it were trying to get out of the way of their falling bulk -- you never get the sense that it is very flat. No matter where you stand, the world seems to be constantly tipping up towards (or down away from, as the case may be) the peaks above, leaving the uneasy feeling that somehow if you stopped walking or closed your eyes for a moment, you'd fall over -- nudged off balance by a world pushed aside by the Andes.

The topological uneasiness caused by the very real angle of the alluvial plains of Tunuyan is accompanied by another phenomenon common to the world's most expansive landscapes. The ground seems nearer to the sky; and the two of them together -- the whole wide world -- contrive to make the human observer seem mouse-small in the face of its sheer grandeur.

In this landscape, it can be difficult to fully appreciate what is quite likely the most ambitious winery project on the surface the planet. In the shadow of great mountains, winemaker Michel Rolland, viticulturalist and managing director Carlos Mayer, and some of the world's most famous and influential winery families are building the crown jewel of Argentina's wine world. Clos de los Siete -- a partnership originally with seven investors (though some have subsequently pulled out) -- will be, when fully realized, a semi-collective grouping of world-class wine estates who will each make their own wines while contributing some of their grapes to a single wine produced under the Clos de los Siete name.

Certainly the dirt and pothole-ridden pavement back roads that lead the visitor to the unmarked adobe-style gatehouse at the base of Clos de los Siete do not properly set the stage for the grandeur that lies in wait at the foot of the mountains. Driving past the gatehouse onto the lower roads of the property, which were beginning to show signs of their eventual groomed state when we visited about six years ago, and even seeing the initial views of some of the vineyards and low-slung architectural forms of the wineries, it is difficult to get a handle on exactly what it is you are seeing.

For me, it took a short drive with Carlos Mayer to the top south-western corner of the property, the highest elevation point of the project, to fully understand the real scale of the numbers he was reeling off as we bumped along the dirt roads. 2092 acres of property at 1,200 meters above sea level planted, since 1999, with vines at 2500 plants per acre on a plot of land four kilometers long and two kilometers wide sounds like a lot of vineyard. Until you see it. And then you realize that it's a hell of a lot of vineyard.

As we bumped our way back down to the first of the winery buildings past the neighboring property overrun with head-high gorse and some sort of equally unattractive bush (which Mayer says indicates excellent soil infertility for grapes) I also got the sense of the unbelievable effort it must have taken to transform the landscape to the point at which grapevines (and irrigation pipes, and electrical wires) could be put into the ground. Clearly neither time, effort, nor expense were a barrier to success.

And it took only two steps into any one of the wineries on the property to fully understand how much expense we are really talking about.

Each winery on the property is an exercise in architectural expression as well as the stuff of winemakers' wet dreams. With a literal blank slate (and no doubt, blank checks from the owners) the wineries of Clos de los Siete are the most sophisticated custom winemaking facilities I have ever seen. Fully optimized for gravity flow, precise humidity and temperature control, workflow, cleanliness, and the exacting custom specifications of Mayer, Rolland, and the individual winemakers for each of the families, they would be impressive even without the stylish edifices in which they sit. The buildings themselves express the personalities of their owners, and no doubt their architects as well. From the postmodern Santa Fe visions of artist/illustrator Philippe Duillet (famous among other things for being the art director of the Star Wars films) at the Flecha de los Andes winery, to the low slung modernism-meets-Tuscan-castle of Cuvelier los Andes, to the majestic Boston-brick-warehouse monolith of Monteviejo.

It's all to easy to see only as far as the expression of massive wealth and ambition at play across the landscape here. These palaces here at the ends of the earth can, and likely will by some, be written off as an exercise of ego with no spending cap. But anyone who bothers to stay long enough to taste the wines being made here would have to be dead not to recognize that Rolland and Mayer and the individual winemakers of these properties are without question in the process of setting a new bar for Argentinean wine.

Perhaps the most wildly available product of this project is the wine that bears it's name: Clos de los Siete, a blend that Michel Rolland personally puts together each year from fruit provided by each of the partner wineries. I've tasted the wine for the past six or seven vintages and have been interested in its evolution. What started out as a somewhat lush, accessible wine has become ever more serious, to the point that it now sports tannins that are built for aging, and a flavor profile that really needs a couple of years in the bottle before it will show its full potential.

The 2008 is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Petite Verdot.

Full disclosure: I received this wine as a press sample.

Tasting Notes:
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of cassis and well oiled leather. In the mouth aggressive tannins wrap the tongue in a leathery fist while flavors of wet dirt, cassis, and dried black cherries fuse into a rich mulch of tastiness. Quite young and in need of 2-3 years of age, this wine will be much more delicious with some time. As it is, those who appreciate something a bit more austere may really enjoy this wine.

Food Pairing:

Overall Score: between 8.5 and 9.
At this point in it's evolution in addition to giving it some air (decant it if you can) I recommend serving it with any variety of charred beef that strikes your fancy.

How Much?: $20

This wine is available for purchase on the Internet.

Comments (12)

08.08.10 at 4:06 AM

Thank you for the evocative and beautifully-written report. I've tried a few vintages of this wine and find it well-made, given the environmental constraints under which they operate, but neither it nor its neighbors, in my experience, are able to overcome these constraints. What bothers me about projects like this is how capital runs roughshod over the vocation of the local nature. A hot desert climate like this is just not naturally conducive to wines that have (what I would consider) a correct acid/sweet balance. They require irrigation, so the roots are lazy, and there is too much heat relative to light, so grapes have to be picked supermature to avoid green tannins, generating jammy wines with baked-tasting fruit that require acidification in practically every vintage. And then they create blends that are all over the place, each component trying to make up for what the other lacks. Maybe they want to make the best industrial wine that they possibly can, but an industrial wine will never hold a candle to a well-crafted artisanal wine made in the right climate.

08.08.10 at 8:07 AM

Some considerations on Mr. Costa’s comment:
1) Vistaflores (headquarters of Clos de los Siete in the Uco Valley) has a mild continental semi-desertic climate with 3,137 Winkler Heat Units (ºF; Region III) and 6,948 Wh/m2/day of mean (horizontal) solar radiation in january. Bibbona (Bolgheri) in Tuscany, for instance, is a Region IV, with 3,833 WHUs (ºF) and 6,831 Wh/m2/day (July); and Toro (Toro), in Spain, with 3,200 Winkler Heat Units (ºF) and 6,949 Wh/m2/day (July) has a very similar climate profile to the Uco Valley, which translates in a very high positive correlation (around 85%) of the two data sets. Thus, Vistaflores climate cannot be considered, by no means, hot and/or lacking sunshine.
2) Based on the statistical analysis of its climate data, one can affirm the Uco Valley (mostly, in the 900-1,300 m.a.s.l. range) has an almost perfect (if not perfect) environment for growing shorter cycle grapes like Malbec, Tempranillo and Chardonnay, with very good potential for (tartaric) acid retention. The area’s real challenge, as Alder has pointed, is the development of mature tannins, due to the factual risk of early frosts.
3) As for considering the Clos de los Siete an “industrial wine”… Well, wine drinkers are pretty demanding these days.

Taylor Eason wrote:
08.09.10 at 11:07 AM

Been a HUGE fan of Clos de Siete for years as well, and have been impressed with its staying power and evolution. I've even placed it on restaurant wine lists, for the customers looking for something outside the norm. Very well made for the price.

Greg wrote:
08.09.10 at 11:33 PM

It sounds like they are concerned about global warming, looking for sites that will be suitable if temperatures rise a couple of degrees, which would cause quality problems at many sites in warmer areas.

Deb Lapmardo wrote:
09.25.10 at 1:11 PM

I've sold and tasted Clos de los Siete for several years, and it's true that it's now a more "serious" wine (i.e. more structured and tannic) than the first few vintages. But it's still a very good wine. I'm just more careful about who I recommend it to. And what makes it "industrial"? They may have invested a lot of money in new technology, but so do many family-owned wineries...

09.25.10 at 1:47 PM

A wine can be deemed "industrial" for a number of reasons, but perhaps the most important is the elimination, with SO2, of unreliable and unpredictable indigenous/ambient yeasts to clear the way for innoculation with a reliable and predictable laboratory yeast. Indigenous/ambient yeasts are risky, and have organic farming as a prerequisite, but "natural" wine defenders claim they make for more interesting wine because each yeast has a different impact. They also claim, to me quite reasonably, that the use of any single laboratory yeast is part of the homogenization of wine for commercial purposes (e.g. ensuring consistency of flavor from vintage to vintage, etc.).

A. Paul Tober wrote:
02.13.13 at 2:15 AM

One of the customers of our wine shop in Portland, Oregon USA has tasted your wine in Argentina.
Do you have a distributor in Portland, Oregon?
Thanks,
Paul

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hymen wrote:
09.30.14 at 8:47 AM

Excellent article. I will be facing some of these issues as well..

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