VINOGRAPHY: a wine blog
Wine and food adventures in San Francisco and around the world
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Wine, Health, Science and Journalism: A Study in Headlines
I consume a lot of wine news. When I say a lot, I mean literally almost everything that's published for free on the Internet about wine "passes by my desk" courtesy of Google Alerts, Technorati, a massive collection of RSS feeds, and more. Increasingly I get the opportunity to see how wine stories develop and spread through the Web's news outlets, and it's quite amazing to watch. Recently I've been watching with fascination as the mainstream press does its usual unraveling of some recently released research results focused on wine drinking in women and weight gain. Specifically, I've been giggling... continue reading 
- Posted by: Alder on March 9, 2010 10:53 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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If Your Wine is Organic, Don't Tell Consumers
Apparently, organic wines taste better but consumers don't think they're worth as much money as conventionally produced wines. At least, that's a plausible interpretation of a study conducted by a UCLA professor and her graduate student that was recently published in Business and Society, the official journal of the International Association for Business and Society. Professor Magali Delmas and PhD candidate Laura E. Grant conducted an analysis of 13,426 wines from 1,495 California wineries for eight consecutive vintages from 1998 to 2005. The two tracked correlations between the scores of the wines, their prices, whether they were made from certified... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 7, 2010 5:41 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Glass Wine Bottles Strike Back. In the Wrong Direction.
It's not every day I get the opportunity to display my inner cynic. But I'm still cackling at the little bit of fear mixed with preemptive aggression that manifested today in the form of a web site called Wine Loves Glass. Those who spend time in wine circles know a lot about the "threat" to posed to natural cork producers by the proliferation of alternative closures. In the face of shrinking market share and demand for their product (read: threat to their income streams) they've been striking back with a multi-pronged offensive, covering every base from carbon footprints to endangered... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 22, 2010 9:22 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Scottish Wine: Crimes and Misdemeanors
Not ordinarily known for their wine or wine drinking habits, the Scots have recently been making news in the world of wine. Who knew that one of the most popular beverages among Scottish criminals was wine? Specifically, Buckfast Tonic Wine, a (rather unholy, if you ask me) concoction of wine, sugar, caffeine, and other additives that make it a bit more like Red Bull than wine. Often called "Wreck the Hoose Juice," according to to the New York Times: "In a survey last year of 172 prisoners at a young offenders' institution, 43 percent of the 117 people who drank... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 9, 2010 10:32 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Get Paid to Travel the World, Tasting Wine
File this under things I always meant to do but have never gotten around to.... Every year an organization called the Geoffrey Roberts Trust picks several people to give about $5000 to so they can travel someplace in the world to eat, drink, and write about it, or do something that makes a positive difference in the culinary or beverage world. Yes, you heard that right, you could get $5000 towards some fabulous culinary or wine adventure provided you had a good reason to go other than simply wanting to see how much Barolo you could drink before falling over.... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 27, 2010 11:58 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Marketing and Branding Do Not a Winery Make
For anyone who hasn't been paying much attention or who doesn't really care, the wine industry going through a rough patch, especially here in California. Actually "rough patch" is a bit of an understatement, but more on that later this week. For now, I'd like to focus on a single, early casualty of the times. As reported in the Press Democrat last week, Roshambo winery will be closing its operations down permanently, and its founder, Naomi Brilliant, will be attaching the winery's name (and attitude) to a little farming operation she has started up on her family's land in the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 19, 2010 10:50 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Yet Another Wine Column Casualty in the Newspaper Business
Wall Street Journal wine columnists John Brecher and Dorothy Gaiter have quietly announced their departure. Their Christmas Day column, the 579th piece they have jointly penned together, will be their last at the Journal. This unannounced departure of the unique husband and wife wine journalists represents yet another brick falling from the crumbling wall of professional wine journalism. The word on the street suggests that while the Journal has no intention of discontinuing its wine coverage, this was a layoff along the lines of so many that have occurred in the last 18 months. In short, the Journal wants to... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 27, 2009 3:11 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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How to AVOID Selling Wine in Pennsylvania
So if you had a bunch of grocery stores, and those grocery stores sold wine, but you didn't really want people to buy any wine, what would you do? One of the things you might consider doing would be to lock all the wine away in cabinets, so that people couldn't touch the bottles. You'd want to make sure folks couldn't, say, turn the bottles around and read the back label or anything. You might force people to peer through the front door of this cabinet to try to read the name of the wine they think they might want... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 20, 2009 7:54 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Did You Hear That Sound? Wine Retailers Sigh in Relief
Wine retailers all across the country, and especially online today breathed a big sigh of relief. Probably more than a few of them are popping corks in celebration. Why? The Wall Street Journal reported today that Amazon.Com officially announced that it has canceled plans to sell wine online. The announcement more than a year ago that the online retail giant was moving into the wine business sent small shock waves through the wine retail industry both good and bad. Online retailers nervously fingered their Ethernet cables, and wineries optimistically looked forward to another channel to help them deal with a... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 23, 2009 10:02 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Wine Blogs are Now* Regulated by the FTC
This morning the Federal Trade Commission announced a new set of rules specifically targeting blogs like this one. In short, the Federal Government says that *as of December 1st, 2009, all sample products sent to bloggers must be disclosed in any coverage of those products. Here's the press release about the rules, here's the full text of the current rules, and here's the document that outlines the new changes that will be added to cover bloggers and other New Media. (PDF) While the execution of these rules was slightly flawed, leaving much ambiguity and unanswered questions, rules like this aren't... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 5, 2009 9:58 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Wine Geek Out: What They Know About Oxygen and Wine
Forgive the pocket protector with the waiter's friend protruding from it: I'm a wine geek at heart and sometimes I can't help myself. If you would rather just drink good wine without thinking at all about how it is made, close your browser right now, because things are about to get geeky, thanks to a great article by my fellow blogger and wine science buff Jamie Goode. We still don't know a lot of things about wine. It's a complex animal, where a lot of variables are in play, and direct cause and effect relationships are often difficult to pin... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 12, 2009 11:16 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Winemaking as Feminism in Thailand
It wasn't long ago that I learned about Thailand's nascent wine industry. I wish I had known about it back in 2001 when I was passing through. I would have loved to check it out. For now, I'll just have to imagine it in all its tropical splendor, in between the occasional news clip about it that pops up on my radar. The latest news from Thailand's wine industry involves the story of Nikki Lohitnavy, who at 22 years old is Thailands youngest, and first female winemaker. It's neat to see how the development of Lohitnavy's family as winegrowers echoes... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 10, 2009 10:01 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Wine Signs of the Times
I'm not sure why, but there has been a spate of interesting developments in the wine world in the past few weeks, all of which bear paying attention to by anyone interested in where the wine industry is going these days. I'm normally not one to simply rattle off lists news stories, but these are all so interesting that I can't pass up the opportunity to share them. We're Talking Mainstream The fact that Amazon.Com is getting in the wine business has been old news for a while, but two more giants of American retail just announced they were also... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 22, 2009 11:20 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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The Canary in the California Wine Cellar?
These days are filled with unexpected and disastrous business news to be sure. I'd imagine not many people were very surprised to wake up this morning to find General Motors filing for bankruptcy protection. On the other hand, I was frankly shocked to learn today that a company named New Vine Logistics had closed its doors for lack of operating capital. Most wine lovers would never have heard of this company, and rightly so. Their business model depended upon them being invisible to most. Yet this single company was projected to ship nearly 20% of the wine sold in California... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 1, 2009 9:43 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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The Chinese Roots of California Wine
Every time I visit Meadowood in Napa Valley, I find myself spending time in front of a reproduction of an engraving that hangs somewhere in most of their rooms. It is entitled "The vintage in California, at work at the wine presses" and was the work of an artist named Paul Frenzeny in the late 1800's for Harpers Weekly. Here's what it looks like (click the image to view it full size): I probably looked at this engraving half a dozen times before I noticed the details that now make it fascinating to me. In short, most of the people... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 23, 2009 9:38 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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A Game Changing New Marketplace for Wine
Did you feel that just now? It was the wine world shifting under your feet. As of this morning, the wine world is quite different, and will never be the same again. Now, Robert Parker caught a lot of heat last year after jumping on his own bulletin boards one day and proclaiming that the next day, some news would break that would shake the foundations of the wine world. He was referring to the sale of Chateau Montelena to Cos d'Estournel, which not only was yawn-inducing for most everyone who heard the hyped-up announcement the day before, but ended... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 21, 2009 12:08 AM
- Filed under: Wine News
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All That Grand Cru Wine is not Worthless After All
In the real olden days, grape farmers had to deal with plagues of locusts, rampaging armies, and all manner of biblical-scale disasters. When things settled down in the 16th and 17th centuries, most of the European folks making wine got pretty complacent, until a little bug came along and wiped 98% of their vineyards off the face of the planet. Eventually everyone got over Phylloxera, and the wine world settled back into its groove, and for a while it seemed that the scourges of old might not continue into the modern era. Safe from locusts, boll weevils, and all manner... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 20, 2009 11:06 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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All He Wanted Was a Bottle of Wine After Work
I've been working really hard lately. Not here on Vinography, but at the day job that pays the bills. So I can understand the desire to get off work, grab a bottle of wine, and relax a little. Apparently though, that's not so easy if you're any sort of uniformed service officer in the UK. There, they've got laws that say, if you're wearing your uniform, you don't get to buy alcohol. Presumably, this law exists because there either was a problem at one time with uniformed public servants drunk on the job, or simply because politicians and the public... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 9, 2009 10:35 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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The Future of Wine: Urban Vineyards?
In an age of backlash against big-business agriculture and of increasing value placed on local, sustainable living, the phenomenon known as urban farming flourishes. From tiny planters on the balconies of chic lofts to reclaimed industrial lots, city dwellers in some of America's larger urban centers are finding joy and sustenance in growing their own organic food. And if people can grow tomatoes and corn in an old vacant lot, then why can't they grow wine grapes? My friend, winemaker Bryan Harrington, has planted Pinot Noir in several places within the San Francisco city limits over the years and I... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 7, 2009 10:12 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Winemaking as Therapy: Japan's Autistic Winery
When I first started drinking wine, I had all sorts of romantic notions about what winemaking involved. I though of it as a mix of alchemy and poetry and all sorts of other things. Of course, once I learned a lot more about wine, such romantic notions were replaced by a sense of the back-breaking work, long hours, and exacting chemistry that is required to make a decent wine. But no matter what Ive learned about wine, I never would have thought of winemaking as therapeutic. Sure, the Italians have their prisoners make wine as some sort of rehabilitation, but... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 18, 2009 11:06 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Somali Pirates Take Ransom in Wine
Apparently the stepped-up patrols of U.S. warships off the coast of Somalia and increased vigilance on the part of ships' captains in the area have not been enough to prevent yet another freighter hijacking. According to CNN, early yesterday Somali pirates in several small boats were able to pull alongside and board the Matriarch, a Delaware-based freighter. Despite the known danger of operating in the coastal waters off of Africa's eastern coast south of the Suez Canal, the crew of the Matriarch were unarmed, and unable to offer any resistance to the pirates, who quickly brought the vessel to a... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 1, 2009 12:01 AM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Starting Today, You Can't Sell Fine California Wine in Europe
Something is rotten in the State of Denmark, Hamlet famously proclaimed. Rotten may not quite describe it, but something is definitely amiss in the European Union when it comes to importing wine. Apparently it wasn't enough for the US to agree to stop using the words Port, Champagne, and Burgundy on products that were clearly not from these areas. Today a piece of legislation has gone into effect that forbids the sale of any U.S. wine in Europe that has any of the following words on its label: chateau', 'classic', 'clos', 'cream', 'crusted/crusting', 'fine', 'late bottled vintage', 'noble', 'ruby', 'superior',... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 11, 2009 10:18 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Cast Your Vote in the 2009 American Wine Blog Awards
The finalists for the 2009 edition of the American Wine Blog Awards have been announced, and I'm pleased to report that Vinography is up for three awards: Best Writing, Best Wine Reviews, and Best Overall Wine Blog. I've been publishing this blog for more than 5 years now, and one of the most satisfying aspects of this (second) job of mine continues to be the support that I receive from readers like you. That support manifests in many ways: the comments you leave on the site, the fact that you even bother to come back here to read every day,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 25, 2009 10:45 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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We Need Another French Revolution
My beloved Gallic friends: you've done it once before, and now it is time again to rise up and overthrow the tyrannical laws that threaten to hobble your future. France is in danger and she needs her people to join together and walk the path of righteousness instead of descending into evil. We all knew President Sarkozy was a teetotaler before he was elected. But one of the planks of his platform for election was to be the reform of the ailing wine industry. And, indeed, the government took some steps in the right direction at one point, though there... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 20, 2009 9:28 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Cocaine is Not a Good Substitute for a Nice Glass of Wine
Listen, wine drinkers. I know times are tough. Everyone has less disposable income these days, and it's tougher than ever to justify paying a lot for wine. That's why champagne sales have plummeted, and there's a constant fire sale on most wines that cost more than $100 these days. We all have to do what we can to manage in these economic times, and if that means cutting back on wine consumption, or buying lower priced bottles, so be it. There are other things that are more important than wine, so it's OK to trade down a little. But whatever... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 12, 2009 9:37 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Will UV Treatment of Wine Save Terroir?
It seems like every week, there's a new story about some inventor debuting some newfangled technology to make wine better. Most such stories seem to involve some device that can turn cheap wine into much better wine, auto-magically, which I've now decided is the wine world's equivalent of the famous line "I've got a bridge to sell you." But occasionally we actually get some news of a technological innovation that doesn't involve auras, electromagnetic fields, or crappy wine, and which might actually make a difference in how wine gets made from here on out. Such is the case with the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 31, 2009 9:44 PM
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American and Italian Wine: Movin' on Up!
I'm a proud papa, though I don't think myself at all unique in my position. When my little daughter figured out how to roll over this week and shake her head back and forth, I knew it was only a matter of time before she would get her MENSA membership card and first Olympic gold medal. Nothing quite stirs our emotions like the successes of our own children, but I have to say I got a little verklempt last week more than once over happenings in the wine world. I know, I know. I am a total and complete wine... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 23, 2008 4:16 PM
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Announcing A Menu For Hope 2008: Win Fabulous Wine Prizes
How would you like to go a luxury wine vacation all the while knowing that you're enjoying Napa luxury because you helped to feed some hungry schoolkids in Lesotho, Africa? That, my friends, is the beauty of the charity event called A Menu For Hope. This is the fifth year of A Menu For Hope, the grassroots charity event for wine and food bloggers that started in response to the horrible Tsunamis of 2004. Last year's event raised more than $90,000 for the UN's World Food Programme, which set up a special arrangement so that 100% of the proceeds went... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 15, 2008 7:43 AM
- Filed under: Wine Activities , Wine News
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The Sadness and Irony of a Wine Museum
Meet Michel Chasseuil. He's 67, drives a beat-up old car, never goes on vacation, and is perhaps not unlike so many aging Frenchmen of his generation. He does have one particular thing that makes him somewhat unique, and of great interest to most anyone interested in fine wine, however. Chasseuil owns what many consider to be the greatest single wine collection in the world: 20,000 bottles of 18th, 19th and 20th century wines from the world's greatest producers, especially those in France. He started off as a serious wine enthusiast and investor, and the thrill of collecting eventually took over,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 10, 2008 11:58 PM
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Surprises Among the 2009 Vintner's Hall of Fame Winners
Every year the Culinary Institute of America sponsors an induction of several luminaries in California wine into the Vintners Hall of Fame (which really should be called The California Wine Hall of Fame, since it includes people who are not winemakers and it is exclusively focused on people who have made an impact to the California wine industry). Despite its misnomer, since its founding in 2007, this organization has admirably sought to recognize the individuals (historical and current) that have contributed to the remarkable success of California wine. The contenders for induction are decided upon by a nominating committee (in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 1, 2008 9:02 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Put a Cork in it: Screwcap Wine Closures Are Not Endangering Animals!
Why do I feel like the wine media watchdog these days? Maybe the holiday spirit brings out the misinformation campaigns like no other time of the year. Or perhaps journalists are getting lazy and are scrounging for material that they can recycle out of press releases they have stuffed in the bottom drawers of their desks. So what's the rant about? Today's piece of crap in the Telegraph, entitled "Screw Cap Wine Bottles Threaten Rare Species." The occasion for repeating this completely asinine claim that somehow if we don't stop using screwcaps all those delicate ecosystems of the cork forests... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 29, 2008 5:13 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Now is a Very Good Time to Buy Wine
If I had some extra cash laying around right now, in addition to plowing it into the stock market, I'd likely be out there buying investment grade wine, as well as wine from my favorite expensive producers. If you're a consumer of news about the wine industry, then you understand what is going on in the wine retailing and wine auction world at the moment. On the chance that Vinography might be one of your sole sources of contact with the wine world, let me bring you up to speed: the wine market is doing what the Dow Jones Industrial... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 28, 2008 9:58 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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E-mail Scammers Hit Wine Retailer
One of the latest e-mail scams going around the Internet appears to be targeted at the wine industry. This scam operates at a slightly more sophisticated level than the now famous Nigerian scam. That scam begins with polite greetings (usually in all capital letters) and ends with with promises to share in a large sum of money if the victim will only help with the transfer of a large sum of money out of [insert country name here]. This latest wine focused scam masquerades as request for a private wine tasting and dinner for a large group from "out of... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 14, 2008 9:31 PM
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The Truth About American Wine Drinking
Looks like a piece of news slipped by me a couple of months ago. Every year I look forward to a report, which more than any other single piece of news, speaks the truth about the state of wine in America. Restaurant Wine magazine commissions and publishes a report every year on the top 100 wines and top 100 wine brands sold in restaurants around the country, from family diners to fine dining restaurants. Based on the simple measure of how many cases of each wine were sold at these restaurants, we get a picture of the most important person... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 11, 2008 10:50 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Three Cheers For a Wine Democracy
I've always privately believed that if everyone just drank a bit more wine, the world would be a better place. Who knows if that's really true, but apparently it's quite likely that if everyone drank more wine, the world would be more democratic. According to analysis by Jon Bonné, Wine Editor for the San Francisco Chronicle, Obama was elected by The Wine Vote. What's that, you ask? Wine drinking liberal elitists? Guilty as charged. But get this little statistic: Amount of wine produced in states that McCain won: 4.3 Million Gallons Amount of wine produced in states that Obama won:... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 6, 2008 9:06 PM
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Dangerous Wine or Dangerous Reporting?
I look up to journalists. I really do. They actually get paid for doing what I play at here every day, and most of them are way better at it than I am. But every once in a while someone publishes a story that makes me wonder how we all manage to avoid riding journalists out of town on a rail. Witness the headlines that are rapidly rocketing their way across the internet: Heavy Metals Found in Wine, Metals in wine may be health danger, and Euro wines carrying potentially dangerous levels of heavy metals. If this is really true,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 29, 2008 11:23 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Wine That Answers the Question: What is This Shit?
Amidst the tumbling financial markets, rapacious campaigning, and international crises of one form or another, we all need to slow down and have a glass of wine. Moreover, we all need to stop taking life quite so seriously. I normally don't look to French winegrowers for a source of amusement -- they are a famously unfunny lot -- but apparently desperate times have brought out some humor in some wine producers in the Languedoc. Faced with low demand for their cooperative produced wines in the face of their region's reputation for producing plonk, a group of winemakers have decided that... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 21, 2008 9:34 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Why Do Winemakers Hate Journalists?
Perhaps the only thing worse for winemakers than getting a below average review in a wine publication is being mentioned in any publication that describes itself as investigative. "Normal" journalists, namely those that don't normally focus on food, wine, or lifestyle issues, have a pretty lousy reputation in the wine industry, and sometimes for good reason. Especially when they publish pieces like this. Or when they try for a "new angle" on a particular issue. The issue of ingredient labeling on wine has been discussed at length in the United States, and it's apparently also under discussion in the EU.... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 19, 2008 8:50 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Robert Parker Watch Your Back
In the circles of wine lovers I travel in, many folks make a common observation about the evolving landscape of wine criticism. Namely that the era of Robert M. Parker, Jr. is coming to a close, and a new world of wine critics are emerging. I'm not sure I'd personally describe what I see happening in the wine world in quite those terms, but it's clear that Parker has been doing some succession planning in the past couple of years with many of the new additions to his staff. It's also clear that there are many new voices in the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 11, 2008 8:57 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Are EU Lawmakers Going to Destroy the Italian Wine Industry?
France, you get a free pass today. The European Common Market Organization is my newest punching bag when it comes to idiotic wine regulations. I can hardly believe it, but new wine industry reforms proposed by this body apparently will result in the elimination of Italy's DOC and IGT designations for wine. WHAT!?!? If that doesn't make your blood boil, then you're not paying attention. These reforms, which would go into effect in 2009 if adopted, seem to suggest the equivalent action to taking all of the individual Bordeaux appellations and replacing them with just two: "Left Bank" and "Right... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 6, 2008 10:12 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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A Real Nigerian Wine Scam
Anyone who has an e-mail account and has checked it at least once in the last 10 years has probably received an e-mail that begins: DEAR SIR, CONFIDENTIAL BUSINESS PROPOSAL HAVING CONSULTED WITH MY COLLEAGUES AND BASED ON THE INFORMATION GATHERED FROM THE NIGERIAN CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY, I HAVE THE PRIVILEGE TO REQUEST FOR YOUR ASSISTANCE TO TRANSFER THE SUM OF $47,500,000.00 (FORTY SEVEN MILLION, FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND UNITED STATES DOLLARS) INTO YOUR ACCOUNTS. Known as the Nigerian Scam, or more properly an Advanced Fee scam, this sort of fraud has been incredibly successful, despite what may seem... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 4, 2008 7:17 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Church Attendance Down? Try Installing a Wine Bar.
At one point in the glorified history of Western civilization, people were beaten or berated if they failed to show up for religious services. You didn't simply put money in the collection box, it was taken from you. But we're in the 21st century, and the church must rely less on force and more on marketing if it wants to hold onto its market share in an increasingly competitive marketplace. In a move that may have been inspired by scripture itself ("Wine was created from the beginning to make men joyful, and not to make men drunk. Wine drunk with... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 30, 2008 10:49 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards Exposed as a Total Farce
My colleague Jim Gordon who currently edits Wines & Vines magazine just pointed me to an article on their web site that made my jaw hit the table. Reporting from the recent meeting of the American Society for Wine Economists, writer Peter Mitham describes a presentation by researcher Robin Goldstein, who seems to have performed a sting operation on the Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards and exposed them as a total farce, as part of his ongoing investigations on the perceptions of value and quality in wine. In summary: 1. Researcher invents fake restaurant in Italy. 2. Researcher builds web site... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 19, 2008 8:02 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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When is The Right Time to Establish Wine Appellations?
The birth of a wine region is a fascinating thing to watch, and I'm sure an even more fascinating process to be a part of. Much of the wine that we drink comes from regions that have been established anywhere from decades to centuries ago, but the quest for great wine and great places to grow it (not to mention the changing whims of the global climate) means that there are always new frontiers when it comes to wine growing. All new wine regions begin the same -- with a pioneering spirit and a hell of a lot of determination.... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 16, 2008 8:11 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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When Wine Isn't Enough of a Cash Crop, Grow Marijuana
Who knows where this stuff comes from? Or why the first place I find out about it is some newspaper in the UK. But apparently times are tough for some grape growers in Washington state, so instead of putting the hard work in to grow wine grapes, they're turning to Marijuana instead. Or perhaps more accurately, they're selling out to friendly people who show up willing to pay cash for their vineyards. Apparently several former vineyards have been converted to Ganja fields in the last year or two. But one has to wonder at the wisdom of such an approach... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 9, 2008 10:19 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Hear That? It's the Sound of a Billion Wine Corks Pulled in China.
It's no surprise that with the Olympics going on, all manner of news media have turned their eye on China. The wine media have taken this opportunity to explore and explicate the rapidly growing interest in wine that seems to have arisen in China in the last few years. Much of this coverage is quite superficial, but increasingly journalists are actually exploring China's wines, wine regions, and wine culture. Two recent articles are worth reading for their thoughtful commentary on China's burgeoning wine culture. The first, from the ever articulate Mike Steinberger at Slate, draws on his experience living in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 8, 2008 3:32 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Italy Gets it Right. Scotland Gets it Very, Very Wrong.
There are those of you who believe that one of my favorite things to do here on Vinography consists of bashing the French government. Believe me, I wish I had no cause to do that whatsoever, but they just keep inviting it. Today, however, I'm happy to prove that I'm an equal opportunity mudslinger, as I pronounce the latest proposals on alcohol regulation by the Scottish government to be profoundly and malignantly ridiculous. The UK, it seems, has a problem with binge drinking, or so the government claims, and with the best intentions, has set out to do something about... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 6, 2008 11:55 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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How Simple Should Wine Get?
As an advocate for wine, I try to help people enjoy wine more (or for the first time) in whatever small way I can. I recommend what I think are interesting wines that range in price from $10 to several hundred, and I'm always consciously careful about explaining aspects of winemaking or the wine business to my readers whenever they seem relevant or necessary. At the same time, however, I strive desperately not to dumb down wine. It is a complex beast in some ways, and part of its beauty is in its complexity. This desire to avoid oversimplifying wine... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 30, 2008 11:16 PM
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Breaking Wine News: Bordeaux's Cos d'Estournel Buys Napa's Chateau Montelena
To those of you in the wine world paying attention to the dollar's stomach churning lows against the Euro, this news may come as little or no surprise. This morning, Chateau Cos d'Estournel announced it's purchase of the historic Chateau Montelena in Napa. While not the first bit of investment from Bordeaux in the Napa Valley, it is certainly a significant one, given both the landmark historical status of Chateau Montelena as well as the prestige and success of Cos d'Estournel, whose star has certainly been rising in Bordeaux over the past decade. Exact details of the transaction aren't available,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 22, 2008 8:45 AM
- Filed under: Wine News
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That Smoky 2008 Vintage: California Wine and Wildfires
There were a few weeks in June when the last place a wine lover would have wanted to be was the ordinarily idyllic Napa Valley. A thick haze of blue-gray smoke hung in the air, as if the San Francisco summer fog had crept north and picked up every bit of car exhaust along the way between the Golden Gate bridge and Oakville Crossroads. Unless you've been hiding under a rock lately, you'll know that here in California we're having an unprecedented fire season. Somewhere over 3000 blazes in just the first month of the summer, when in some years... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 18, 2008 10:47 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Grand Jury Cru: Part Deux
I wrote a post over a year ago entitled Grand Jury Cru, which described the unfortunate plight of the wineries of St. Emilion in Bordeaux, who at the time had recently been told by a French court that the reclassification of the Chateaux (into Grand Cru, Premiere Cru, etc.) was null and void. At the time everyone, including myself, believed there would be a political resolution to the issue by the time the current vintage went into bottles. And indeed, the issue yo-yo'ed back and forth several more times as the French bureaucracy and the lobbying bodies tussled over the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 13, 2008 11:57 PM
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Introducing the World's Best (FREE!) Wine Cellar Management Software
This constitutes the first and possibly the only time you will ever find me endorsing, recommending, and generally plugging a commercial product (that isn't a bottle of wine or sake) here on Vinography. There are two clear reasons for this. The first is that the product I am endorsing is free. The second is because I designed it. Those of you who know a little bit about me may be aware that by day I run an interactive design and strategy consulting firm called HYDRANT, which, among other things designs some of the best e-commerce and web applications in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 9, 2008 10:05 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Red Wine and Charred Meat Cure Leprosy
I'm sorry about that headline. I couldn't help myself. Everyone else is doing it. When I first started writing about wine several years ago, I thought one of the things I might do was to help my readers keep up with the health news surrounding wine, so I started posting little tidbits every time I saw a news item about the health benefits of wine. After about three weeks it was clear that unless I was planning on writing the Wine and Health Blog, there was just no way I could possibly cover it all. There's a new bit of... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 7, 2008 11:33 PM
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The Myth of the Monolithic Wine Palate
If you have more than a passing interest in wine, you've no doubt heard some form of this common complaint: wine critic Robert Parker's palate, with it's emphasis for 'hedonistic fruit bombs,' has ruined the wine world, because now everyone makes (unappealing/monstrous/one-dimensional/sweet/spoofulated/choose-your-adjective) wines that taste the same and have the singular goal of a high point score from Parker. I have long maintained that this "sky is falling" point of view (perhaps best typified by the irresponsible polemic, Mondovino) and in particular the demonization of Robert Parker's palate as monolithic represents a sort of irrational fanaticism with little basis in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 28, 2008 4:42 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Terroir vs. Pleasure in Wine
How many times have I told myself not to meddle in the world of terroir? Having (or starting) discussions about the traditionally French notion of how wines possess unmistakable signatures of their place of origin is not unlike having discussions about religion and sexual orientation: you need to take care who you have them with. But here I am again meddling in the "somewhereness" of wines, to borrow writer Matt Kramer's favorite shorthand for terroir. The question of the day is whether terroir includes the "bad" flavors as well as good -- and if it does, whether such flavors should... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 18, 2008 9:19 PM
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Ethiopian Wine: A New Frontier in Africa
I'm a sucker for pioneers. Especially those that strike out into the wilderness to try making great wine where no one has tried before. This is why I was positively tickled when I learned about people making wine in Thailand a few of years ago. My latest source of delight in this regard is Ethiopia, which frankly is a much more likely locale for winemaking than Thailand. Thanks to the famine in the 80's, most people's mental picture of Ethiopia looks like this: Photo by Calips96 But Ethiopia is far from a flat wasteland. In fact, it is incredibly mountainous.... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 8, 2008 10:27 PM
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France Makes Progress Towards Rational Wine Laws
I can't tell you how happy it makes me to write a piece acknowledging progress in France towards a rational approach to laws concerning wine production and marketing. It seems like every few months for the last couple of years, I have found myself with my head in my hands, bemoaning another setback for the French wine industry at the hands of ignorant, stubborn, and backwards politicians. I've written so many articles criticizing French policies that some of you have even written to complain that I have something against the country, despite my professed love for French wine. This past... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 7, 2008 5:31 PM
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The Flavors in Wine are Yours Alone
I do not need to tell you that I'm a geek of the first degree when it comes to wine, but you may not know that my interests in the minutiae of life extend beyond the wine world into lots of other areas. When it comes right down to it, I just love knowing how things work. And why. Which is why I absolutely fell for Harold McGee when I first encountered his book, On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, which might as well have been titled: The Geeks Guide to the Kitchen. McGee took... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 4, 2008 10:54 PM
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The Passing of a Legend: Robert Mondavi 1913-2008
Today the United States lost one of its living legends, as Robert Mondavi died today at the age of 94. It's hard to overstate the impact that Robert Mondavi had on the wine world. His name itself was, and still is, one of the most well known brands in America. His family's (and his own) success in the wine business was a prototypical example of the American dream. Robert Mondavi moved to Napa in 1930's to work in the post-prohibition wine industry of the region, having grown up making wine with his father and brothers in Lodi, California, before attending... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 16, 2008 9:26 PM
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Wine Critics are Parasites, But That Doesn't Mean We Can Be Bought
One of the world's leading wine critics has just proclaimed that wine writers, journalists, and critics are all parasites. According to Decanter magazine, while being paid to hang out in a plush cliffside hotel in Ronda, Spain, Jancis Robinson took a moment out from tasting some of the world's best wines to admonish her fellow journalists, "We must always remember that we are parasites on the business of winemaking." From Websters: Parasite \ˈper-ə-ˌsīt, ˈpa-rə-\ . Noun. 1 : a person who exploits the hospitality of the rich and earns welcome by flattery 2 : an organism living in, with, or... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 23, 2008 11:36 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Does Expensive Wine Taste Better Than Cheap Wine?
Regardless of your level of wine knowledge, and independent of the price you normally pay for a bottle of wine, I'm willing to bet that you'll agree with the following statement: On average (which is to say, not ALWAYS) a bottle of wine that costs $150 will taste better than a bottle that costs $2. That's what I would assume, at least. And built into that assumption is another assumption -- that many people (though certainly not all) would be able to tell the difference between the two. According to a recent paper from the delightful folks at the Journal... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 17, 2008 11:32 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Lest You Forget That Wine is Business...
As wine lovers, we all belong to a club whose entrance criteria include passion and romanticism. We return to wine again and again for its magical ability to transcend what is in the glass, and to transport us in memory and experience to both favorite and new places. By far the most pleasurable and rewarding relationship with wine involves an affair of just these sorts of passions, blissfully ignorant of the facts which demand that wine also be understood in terms of economics, politics, and science. Many of us are content to live in a world where there is no... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 13, 2008 5:09 PM
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Dirty Tuscan Laundry
What's a little bit of Cabernet between friends? Depends on who you ask. In California a little dash of Cabernet in your Merlot, or vice versa would hardly be cause for comment. Technically, in order to have the words "Cabernet Sauvignon" on the label, only 75% of the wine has to be Cabernet. In Italy, however, the largest wine scandal in decades has recently erupted over a little bit of Cabernet and Merlot mixed in with Sangiovese. In an incident that is already being referred to as Brunellogate, several prominent winegrowers in Tuscany are facing prosecution on charges of adulterating... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 8, 2008 11:22 PM
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My Next Wine Vacation: Paris Pawn Shops
As a kid, I badly wanted to be an archaeologist for a period of time. When I was twelve, I saved up until I could (with a little help from Grandma) buy a metal detector. I suppose I've never lost the fascination with buried treasure. Heck, I went to Egypt on my honeymoon. And if I had a TV, I would definitely watch the Antiques Roadshow. Which is why, I suppose, that I now desperately want to spend a few weeks canvassing the back alleys of Paris now that its pawn shops are accepting wine. OK, so it's not quite... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 26, 2008 7:58 PM
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The Great Sipping Sound of Hong Kong
Mark my words: China is the next big thing when it comes to wine. Wine consumption that is. I've had more than a few Chinese wines that make it clear that they've got a long way to go when it comes to making decent table wine, but when it comes to drinking wine, China is moving up fast in the ranks of wine consumers. As China mints more millionaires every week, international business hubs like Hong Kong and Shanghai are exploding as centers for spending the newfound wealth of the nation's richest citizens. Increasingly, a share of that cash seems... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 29, 2008 11:59 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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What Wine Goes with Recession?
If the election buzzphrase in the early 1990s was "It's the economy, stupid!" in 2008 that might be revised to, "it's the stupid economy!" Everyone is in a tizzy these days, and rightfully so. America is going through a rough patch that many believe is the culmination of decades of bad financial habits on a national level, not the least of which is our tendency to spend beyond our means on the level of the individual and the government. Housing prices plummet, foreclosures rise, the dollar weakens, consumer confidence wavers, and of course, all business sectors are beginning to think,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 26, 2008 11:43 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Science Confirms Gold Plated Wine Bottles Are Best
From now on, I'm only buying wine if it comes in a gold plated or platinum plated bottle. I want my wine bottles encrusted with jewels, and preferably as expensive as possible. Perhaps we can convince Damien Hirst to come up with something called For The Love of Wine? My newly expensive tastes are, of course, the result of some new neuroscience that has gotten a large amount of press in the past two weeks. I don't know what it is, exactly, that the mainstream media love about wine related science, but the recent experiments from some folks down at... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 20, 2008 10:37 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Cornas Is Saved For Wine Lovers Everywhere
I can't think of a better Christmas gift. OK, maybe world peace would be a better one, but I'm thrilled to report that the vineyards of Cornas have been saved from the evil forces of real estate development. Regular readers will remember earlier in the year when I related the horrific news that despite protests from everyone involved, the mayor of Cornas was going to approve a commercial development that would have obliterated some of the best vineyard land in the village of Cornas in the Northern Rhone valley. Together with some of you readers, and wine lovers from around... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 2, 2008 11:33 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Tasting Our Way towards Terroir
If you want to get into an argument with a die hard wine lover, just bring up terroir -- the nebulous, mythical, and increasingly subjective notion that wines express the place and circumstances of their making. This "somewhereness," to borrow one of my favorite terms for the concept, has been used as a justification for nearly anything you could think of in the world of wine, both good and evil. A couple of years ago, I decided that talking about terroir was like talking about God. It is best done behind closed doors and with people whom you are sure... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 25, 2007 11:59 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Don't Throw Out All That St. Emilion!
I know it's too late for some of you. You've already thrown out all that St. Emilion wine that used to be Grand Cru at one point, but which was turned into worthless, unclassified Bordeaux eight months ago. But for those of you who haven't divested yourself of all that pedestrian plonk, I have some good news. It's now back to being great wine again. It's certainly incredible, isn't it, how quickly our wine can go from great to lousy and back again? It's almost like the Wine Spectator rated it an 88 one day and then a few months... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 17, 2007 3:52 PM
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Money Alone Will Not Save European Wine
The European wine industry, especially the French wine industry, needs a serious shot in the arm. It has needed one for more than a decade. A few days ago, the European Union tried to give it one, but thanks to the characteristic myopia of international politics, it might as well have just taken a few hundred million dollars and flushed it down the toilet. The EU recognized, correctly, that European wine isn't particularly competitive (read: doesn't sell) on the world market once you get outside of the luxury price range ($25 and above). Unfortunately, the majority of European wine made... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 9, 2007 4:51 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Caribineri di Vino. AKA: Sommelier Cops.
Sometimes I really do just feel like everything in Europe is better. Of course, I know that this is just my food and wine version of the grass is greener. But then I hear stories like this one and I have to shake my head in wonder. In America, our cops are busy being trained how to negotiate with a hijacked airplane and how to spot terrorists in a crowd. In Italy? They're training 25 of their military cops to be sommeliers so they can better track down wine fraud. How cool is that? The best place to be a... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 25, 2007 8:27 PM
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What Wines Do Americans Drink?
I'm completely fascinated whenever I learn more about what the "average" American drinks when it comes to wine. The Restaurant Magazine annual report on the top selling brands of wines in America that I regularly reference here on Vinography is always a sober wake up call to most of us who are wine lovers, because it represents a world of wine that we left behind a long time ago, or in some cases, have never experienced. Is it safe to assume that none of you reading this blog regularly buy Turning Leaf or Franzia boxed wine from Safeway? Last time... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on August 17, 2007 10:52 AM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Stabbing Cornas In the Chest
For the last week there has been quite a conversation brewing as the result of my commentary on a magazine article discussing EU wine reforms, which include ripping out quite a lot of underperforming vineyards around Europe (mainly in France). Now I don't know enough to be able to say definitively whether ripping out (or "grubbing up" as the Europeans like to call it) can actually help the European wine industry, but I understand the logic being used. There is another, smaller, less visible set of plans on the table to rip out some vines, for which I can find... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 23, 2007 10:45 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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The Soul vs. The Market
I'm seriously behind on my magazine reading. So much that along with putting some delicate Japanese ceramics out of reach, I actually had to reduce the height of some piles before my 14-month-old niece Isabell came over and started wandering around my living room. In my mind's eye I watched her crushed under the weight of 12 issues of Decanter, 12 issues of The Wine Spectator, and 14 issues of Wired Magazine, and it wasn't pretty. So anyhow, in the course of flipping through some of the stacks of dead trees in my house, I came across an absolutely lovely... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 18, 2007 10:55 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Wine As Self Defense
I swear you couldn't possibly make this shit up if you tried. Forget the NRA, next time you happen to come home to someone in a ski mask rifling through your possessions, or when a cadre of armed men break into your private club demanding everyone's wallets or jewelry, just make sure you offer them a glass of (good) wine before trying other negotiation tactics. Apparently all it took was a glass of Château Malescot St-Exupéry (a Bordeaux Third Growth estate), a nibble of camembert cheese, and a group hug to prevent a recent robbery in a private home in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 15, 2007 10:39 PM
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About Those 2007 Bordeaux Futures...
Nature giveth, and she taketh away. Just when we all thought that Global Warming might be making wine a little easier to make in Europe, the summer of 2007 comes along and reminds us that we can put a man on the moon, but we're not any better at predicting the weather more than about 7 days out. In case you haven't been following the news, it's looking like the 2007 vintage in Bordeaux is going to be one of the worst in recent memory. Unseasonably cold and hard rains have decimated the grape crops, to current estimates of approximately... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 15, 2007 10:11 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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How to Win Friends in the Wine Business
It never ceases to amaze me how people tend to forget that they are just customers. I'm guilty of this too, sometimes, but we tend to start thinking that we're entitled to buy whatever it is that we're buying, and we forget that being able to buy the things we want is a privilege that comes with strings attached. We have to hold up our end of the bargain to be good customers, and we also have to remember that even when we do, the folks selling us what we want are not obligated to keep doing so, especially if... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on July 10, 2007 10:00 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Stop The State Fair Madness
We interrupt your normal levelheaded Vinography programming with the following outraged rant. Listen up wine industry folks, this whole state fair thing has gone on long enough and it just needs to stop. If I hear one more winery boasting that their Zinfandel won a gold medal at the Butte County fair, and silver at the Cal State Expo, I think I'm going to be sick. And listen up wine consumers, while I explain to you how utterly ridiculous and meaningless these awards are, and how you should never use them as part of your decision for purchasing a wine.... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on June 29, 2007 6:02 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Open a Bottle, Get a Date
File this under, "what won't they think of next?" The world of wine marketing has taken some pretty strange twists and turns over the years: wine in a box (good idea!); critters on the label (who would have guessed?); wine just for women (lame!); integrated plastic cups for drinking (huh?). Now the latest from the drunk staffers at some marketing agency somewhere in France: open a bottle, get laid get a date. Apparently the scheme works like this. Several different types of wine are sold under the moniker of "Soif du Coeur" (Thirsty Heart). You buy a pink bottle if... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 30, 2007 11:14 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Whenever You Can, Blame The Consultants
It's hard to blame people for acting like people, but our tendencies as a species sometimes blow me away. Find me someone in a situation they're unhappy with, and I'll show you a person looking for a scapegoat. I suppose some evolutionary psychologist could tell me why it is that we always want to blame somebody, anybody, for the state of the world, but for now I'm left chuckling and half-horrified as always. I like to make a big deal out of the difficulties that France is facing at the moment. I've called it a crisis of epic proportions, which... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 20, 2007 8:36 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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James Beard Does Wine
The annual James Beard Awards focus on restaurants and journalism with a myriad of awards covering all sorts of categories of each. Of particular interest to me are the journalism awards, some of which inevitably highlight a few of America's best wine writers and their work. It's always worth paying attention to those restaurants and wine professionals who are recognized for their work as well. So without further ado, here's what the James Beard Association had to say about the past year of wine in America. Newspaper writing on spirits, wine or beer (in a rare tie) Eric Felten,... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 16, 2007 10:47 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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New Frontiers of The Online Wine World
Something very interesting is going on in New Jersey. You have to be a bit of a wine geek mixed with a little tech geek to know about this piece of news, and you might need to be both in order to appreciate it as well. But it was announced yesterday that Gary Vaynerchuck of WineLibraryTV Fame has purchased the website Cork'd. By way of full disclosure, it should be noted that Gary's company advertises on Vinography. Cork'd is one of the many Web 2.0, or should I say "Wine 2.0" startups that is attempting to bring the power of... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on May 15, 2007 11:12 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Drinking Buddies - A New Twist
Mostly, I try to keep this blog focused on good wine, and good writing about wine, knowing that there are plenty of other outlets out there for the bizarre, the frivolous, and the gear. However, when things like this "My Other Half" wine-glass-gadget come along, it's hard to resist. In case it's not blindingly obvious from the photo, these two glasses are connected by a tube so that the wine flows between them in such a way that when the glasses are both at the same elevation, there is always the same amount of wine in each. Or at least... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 25, 2007 11:37 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Bring Out Your Dead....Wines
People say the darndest things. I think we're all given to pronouncements once in a while. There's something very self satisfying about declaring with finality that something is so, so much that most journalists (myself included) have a hard time resisting the urge to speak in headlines. Take this recent pronouncement from the news pages of the wine world: Vins de Garage are Dead. With this headline Decanter Magazine proclaimed the end of the garagiste movement in Bordeaux. For those unfamiliar with this movement, it began in the mid-1990s as a group of independent winemakers began making small lots of... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 24, 2007 11:58 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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The Future of Wine Marketing?
I first reported on the strange phenomenon of wine related manga comics in Japan about a year ago, but it seems they're gaining in popularity. At the time, one of my readers mentioned another, newer comic by the name of "Kami no Shizuku" (literally "god's droplets") which offered commentary and musing on the virtues of French wine. According to some, it's a pretty compelling comic, with particularly thirst generating properties. Well according to a story in today's news, that comic has been translated to Korean and is a huge hit in South Korea. Of course, in the extremely litigious and... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 18, 2007 10:37 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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The Vines of Robinson Crusoe
As a young kid my imagination was swept away by tales of pirates and castaways in the South Pacific. In particular I was captivated by the tale of Robinson Crusoe, mostly based on the fantasy of being clever enough to actually survive and live in comfort on a remote tropical island. Of course, when I got older I realized that as inventive as Robinson Crusoe was, he was missing some pretty big essentials there on the island that rendered it slightly less than paradise in my opinion. The two things he was really missing? Women and wine. OK. Maybe he... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 11, 2007 11:59 PM
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Bordeaux En Primeur Season Begins
Spring is in the air, and Spring has been associated with Bordeaux for a long time in the wine world. The annual Bordeaux En Primeur season, in which members of the trade and the media get to taste the most recent vintage from all the major Bordeaux producers, is underway, and will culminate soon in the pricing of 2006 Bordeaux futures. In Stravinsky's ballet Rite of Spring, based on the ancient pagan rituals that were so common this time of year, the plot involves the sacrifice of a virgin girl to the god of Spring to ensure his benevolence. In... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on April 7, 2007 2:31 PM
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Grand Jury Cru
If this isn't a good reminder of how we get too wrapped up in labels and designations, I don't know what is. Some purchasers of 2006 Bordeaux futures from wineries in St. Emilion went to bed owning Grand Cru wines on Thursday night, but on Friday morning when they awoke, those wines were cru-less, so to speak. Just plain St. Emilion. On Friday a French Court overturned the recent re-classification of the houses of Saint Emilion after a number of producers challenged it as "unfair" in court. Not only did the court overturn the classification, but they have stated that... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 31, 2007 10:05 PM
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Technology = Better Bordeaux?
I should tell you, I briefly considered scrapping this post, as I'm sure it's going to bring out the doomsayers among my readership, but that's ok, the conversation needs to be had. I came across an interesting article in Business Week Magazine last week that I thought perfectly captured the threshold on which the wine world, and France in particular finds itself today. It's worth a read, but for the purposes of my point, let me summarize some key facts laid out in the article: 1. 4000 or so lesser known Bordeaux producers have gone out of business since the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 21, 2007 11:15 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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What is the World Coming To?
How do we know that we've finally reached the point where we should just get rid of our government and start over again? When they spend time, energy, and taxpayer money making decisions and laws that so offend rational thinking it takes the breath away. Today's candidates for removal from office? The Utah State Government, who in decisive move to uphold the morality of their state have told poor Glenn Eurick that he can no longer have a license plate on his car that reads: MERLOT. Apparently Utah has a law that forbids anyone from having "words for intoxicants" on... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 19, 2007 9:18 AM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Leftover Wine? Use It to Grow Your Own Clothes
Many of you ask, "how can you come up with something to blog about every day for three years?" I gotta tell ya people, sometimes it's not the easiest thing in the world, but other times life just pitches slow balls right across the plate. I can hardly believe how bizarre the world can be when you get right down to it. Case in point? The latest ground-breaking research in wine chemistry which has developed a way to harness bacterial action to grow clothes from gradually spoiling red wine. Yes, that's right, leave a bunch of wine around to... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 15, 2007 9:40 AM
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Waiter, I'd Like a Glass of Merlot and a Magnet
Even when modern science and technology have proven its futility, alchemy still lives in the human heart. The perennial search to transform lead to gold is no doubt still underway in some places around the world, but the materials involved are less important than the hope itself: the peculiar human desire to apply a small bit of technology (or magic) to something common and yield something rich. We seem to always want to get something for nothing. And why should the wine world be any different? Over the past three years (as long as I've been seriously paying attention to... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on March 13, 2007 11:38 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Coming to France's Rescue
I love French wine. I really do. I love lots of other wines, too, but the wines of France hold a special spot in my heart. Which is why, perhaps, I find myself so angry and frustrated at the country's seeming inability to save itself from an increasingly desperate situation when it comes to its wine industry. Declining consumption, global competition, and what I see as utterly idiotic marketing and appellation laws are choking the French wine industry to death. It's both depressing and infuriating at the same time. This week, however, there were two rays of sunshine amidst the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on February 28, 2007 11:58 PM
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The Great Winery Boom of 2006
In case you haven't noticed, dear reader, there are a lot of Big Wine Headlines that never make their way here onto Vinography. In addition to my desire to present you with the sorts of stuff that I would want to read were I in your place, I also try to filter out a lot of the stuff that is more industry marketing than real news. There's been a lot of hype in the last 12 months about the growing market for wine in America: how Americans are drinking more wine than ever; how Americans are drinking more wine than... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 29, 2007 6:11 AM
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The Science of Sparkle
It still comes as quite a surprise to me just how much high-tech investigation goes on about the bubbles in Champagne. Physicists and material scientists can't be blamed, however, for preferring discussions of laminar flow and fluid dynamics in the context of a glass of sparkling wine rather than, say, diesel outboard motor exhaust in freshwater lakes. A few months ago I brought you the latest findings on why and how bubbles actually form in Champagne. This month, courtesy of Harold McGee and his blog, News for Curious Cooks, we now know more about how the shape of the champagne... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 28, 2007 2:08 PM
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The New White Rioja: Progress or Perdition?
As of 2007, the white wines of Rioja will never be the same. For some, this means "there goes the neighborhood!" For others, this means there is such a thing as progress. I personally think it's a little bit of both, but I lean heavily towards the progress end of the argument. Here's the deal. Up until an announcement this week by the OIPVR (Organización Interprofesional del Vino de Rioja -- the governing body for the Rioja appellation), white wines in Rioja that were able to put the appellation on the label had to be made from Viura (Macabeo), Malvasia... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on January 19, 2007 8:29 AM
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The Corporation Behind Your Favorite Vineyard
Despite the gnashing of teeth and tearing of hair by liberals and conservatives alike, the world is becoming globalized. And what this really means is that more and more aspects of everyone's lives are operating according to market forces and dynamics. Among other thing, this has meant changes in the wine industry -- many of which have been good for wine lovers everywhere -- not the least of which has been the increased access to many wines that heretofore have been impossible to get. Of course there's a downside as well, though I don't think so much of one as... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on December 29, 2006 7:19 PM
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More about Wine and Pregnancy
Drinking while pregnant is a touchy subject no matter how you approach it. Most Americans, understandably, seem to be unable to approach any discussion of it without the strong moralistic bias that underlies so much of our culture. While the majority's point of view on the subject is morally driven, the righteousness of the "common sense" on the issue comes not from some religious conviction, but from an unconsidered, yet zealous acceptance of supposed scientific evidence. In short, everyone knows that "it's dangerous to drink while pregnant because it leads to Fetal Alcohol Syndrome (FAS) and birth defects." Yet, like... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 29, 2006 9:40 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Now THAT's Cultivating a Market
While the major wine producing countries of the word are busy trying to figure out what to do to penetrate the massive potential market of wine drinkers in China, some crafty governmental organization in Canada is already colonizing the kitchens and basements of the swelling Chinese middle class. Figuring that the best way to get people to drink wine is to make it dead easy for them to learn about it, the International Wine Cultural Promotion Association (who ever knew there WAS such a thing?!?) has plans to give over 100,000 wine refrigerators and free wine magazine subscriptions to lucky... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 15, 2006 11:02 PM
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My Latest Occupational Hazard
Our bodies know things, and tell us all the time, but most of the time we choose to ignore them. I eat foie gras and as much as I enjoy it, I can feel the arteries hardening after each bite. Likewise, I've known for a while that spending eight hours tasting several hundred wines is not great for my teeth. When they're Rieslings or Pinot Noir or other wines that tend to have higher acidity levels, my teeth really hurt for the next 24 to 36 hours afterwards. I have to brush gingerly, and anything very cold or hot makes... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 13, 2006 9:35 PM
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The James Beard Chef Awards Go Democratic
Venerable institutions often suffer more than normal companies and organizations when things go wrong internally. The Red Cross took a lot of heat recently, for instance. The James Beard Foundation, too, was wracked by scandal two years ago as its director resigned in advance of his indictment for fraud, an investigation by the Attorney General's office, and the eventual resignation of its entire board of directors. This was a difficult blow for an organization that has a monolithic reputation as one of the primary authorities on food, food writing, cooking, and fine dining in the United States. The annual James... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 7, 2006 9:24 PM
- Filed under: Food Activities , Wine Activities , Wine News
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A Good Overview of France's Problem
I've written often (bitingly, sometimes) about the woes of the French wine industry. I tend to give the French a hard time because I love their wines, and I think the poor state of their wine industry is/was a totally avoidable situation. So like a friend who hassles you about your weight because they want you to get healthier, I tend to rag on the French a bit, hoping that maybe if enough of us point out how silly some of their laws are, they might actually get changed. I know, I know. I've heard that one of the definitions... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on November 6, 2006 11:10 PM
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Kicking Them While They're Down
After you've added insult to injury, what is your next step? Do you pile on ridicule? I almost don't even want to blog about this, as it's really not my intention to poke my fingers in the eye of the French, whose wines and country I adore. But someone has, yet again, tried to do a comparative tasting between California and French wines and, yet again, California wines have come out on top. The irony of the latest tasting is that it was engineered by the French, for the French, and in direct response to the last such tasting (the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 26, 2006 12:05 AM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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Where do Those Bubbles Come From?
I've always been a bit bemused when confronted with the phrase "food science." There's just something....hokey about it. I can't help suppressing a chuckle when I read it. It calls to mind men wearing thick rimmed glasses, white lab coats, and very serious expressions as they measure the elasticity of peanut butter between two cracker crusts. But food science is a real discipline, and there are lots of people out there who are doing some pretty bizarre interesting research. I've done a lot of Champagne reviews recently, so one of their latest studies caught my eye as I browsed through... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 25, 2006 10:25 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Sparkling Wine , Wine News
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Measuring a Wine's Cost a Different Way
I'm a bit behind on my reading of wine news, but as I was catching up this evening I stumbled across this nice article reporting on the environmental impact of wine production. Of course, like all industries, it's impossible to imagine wine production to be a zero-impact or even low-impact business when it comes to the environment. Here in California we've heard more than once about the detrimental effects that large scale wine production can have. But what about smaller productions, we might say to ourselves? A mom and pop winery, maybe in the Old World -- they can't pollute... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 23, 2006 10:35 PM
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You Can't Call Your Wine That Anymore
We live in a world dominated by brands, a marketplace where name and image can make the difference between stunning success and dismal failure. In a consumer world driven by media messages, advertising, and competition for eyeballs and mindshare it's no wonder that people are so protective of the names of their wines. They have to be. But things really start to get funky when we get into the world where a wine's name is often the same as the place it is grown or the varietal it is made from, or both. The winegrowers of the Mosel Saar-Ruwer region... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 14, 2006 10:09 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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New Wine Editor for The San Francisco Chronicle
Earlier in the year, the departure of Linda Murphy as editor of the Wine section was relatively big news in San Francisco. She's now landed a gig working for Jancis Robinson, and there's been some speculation about who might take her place. My friend Derrick over at An Obsession with Food has the scoop on her successor. It looks like it's going to be Jon Bonné, who in addition to being the Lifestyle editor at MSNBC until recently, is also notable for being....wait for it.....a blogger! John runs the popular blog Amuse Bouche. Does this mean that in addition to... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on October 11, 2006 11:35 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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The First Real Study on Global Warming and Vineyards
It's nearly already a cliché: start buying land in Sweden, because soon you'll be able to grow grapes there. There has been an awful lot of talk over the last 15 years about rising global temperatures and the effects on the wine world. For some of us, there was long ago enough circumstantial evidence (along with the very real, documented increase in global temperatures) to point to some pretty serious implications for the winegrowers of the world. There are lots of hardcore science types, however, that like to maintain that such evidence, even when collected by people like the Inuit... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 28, 2006 8:03 AM
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The Best Italian Wines: Announcing The 2007 Tre Bicchieri
There are very few awards for that mean anything in this modern age we live in. There are so many different judging bodies and associations that most of them are marginalized before they even begin. I've lost my faith in most of them, and some, like the Oscars®, I gave up on decades ago. The Nobel prize, the Pulitzer, the Pritker prize for architecture -- there are only a few that I think cling to respectability in an age of meaningless popularity contests. One more that I might be tempted to add to the list, and the only one in... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 27, 2006 10:06 PM
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Now Where Did I Leave That Bottle?
Red wine is good for everything. But you already knew that. If you read this blog only more than once every two years you will have seen the constant breakthroughs in medical research showing just how amazingly healthy red wine is for all of us. In case you have forgotten, feel free to check out the list that I stopped compiling because it was just getting too long. What I want to know is why are there so many scientists out there who one day just decide to study red wine? It's not as if there is some endowment from... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 25, 2006 7:42 PM
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The First Sommelier Pope
I don't know about you, but I get spam all the time telling me that my MBA, PHD, or other advanced degree is just a click of the mouse (and $99.95) away. I've never understood the idea of an honorary degree either, except for those folks like Einstein who are clearly such geniuses that they'd never get anything out of a university where they're smarter than all the professors. Sure, you might as well give them a PhD. But for the normal world, the conferring of honorary degrees has always seemed a bit like institutional ass-kissing to me. Or should... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 22, 2006 9:19 PM
- Filed under: Ramblings and Rants , Wine News
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The 2006 St. Emilion Classification Released
Every ten years, a cabal of wine officials gets together to decide who is good, who is better, and who is best in a little town on the North side of the Dordogne River in the Bordeaux region of France. The "Right Bank" as it is affectionately known, is home to the town and appellation of Saint Emilion, which today was "reclassified" to determine the best wine estates in the appellation. Way back in the 19th century, a slightly crustier and secretive cabal of wine industry mavens got together and created the famous Classification of 1855 which defined for the... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 7, 2006 11:22 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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Make Sure That Wine Is Real...
....before you spend half a million dollars on it. File this under "problems we would all like to have." Florida millionaire Bill Koch was very excited 18 years ago. He had gotten his hands on a couple of dusty bottles with the initials "TH.J" engraved on them. Discovered in the cellar of a wealthy old wine family in Paris, the bottles were auctioned off as wine made for the library of none other than Thomas Jefferson, who had a habit of ordering French wine directly from producers. Koch proudly added the bottles to his 35,000 bottle cellar. But then doubts... continue reading
- Posted by: Alder on September 2, 2006 7:14 PM
- Filed under: Wine News
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