Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week’s wines included the remainder of samples I recently received from Cobb Wines on the Sonoma Coast, a few of their 2013 and 2014 Pinots which are stellar as usual. I particularly love the Jack Hill bottling.
There were two Chardonnays as well, from the little producer Ernest Vineyards. The first, from their Edaphos line, is wonderfully lacking in oak influence and surprisingly complex. To be honest, I like it more than their more traditional Chardonnay, which isn’t as brisk and nervy.
As we move into Cabernet, it’s worth noting the inaugural release of a new label from the folks that bring you Nickel & Nickel Cabernet and Far Niente. This new wine, Bella Union comes from their Bella Oaks vineyard in Rutherford, and is everything most people want in a Napa Cabernet.
Speaking of Nickel & Nickel, I’ve also got three of their single vineyard Cabernets noted below, each quite tasty and ready to drink now or cellar for the next 5 to 10 years.
Finally, I’ve got a pair of Cabernets from legendary producer Heitz Vineyards — their normal estate Cabernet, and their rightfully famous Martha’s Vineyard bottling, which is singing its signature eucalyptus-inflected song.
All these and more below.
Enjoy!
2015 Ernest Vineyards “Edaphos – Green Valley Ranch Vineyard” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of wet pavement, apples and lemon pith. In the mouth, zingy apple and pear and lemonade flavors have a nice silkiness to them and a fantastic mouthwatering sizzle thanks to excellent acidity. Quite tasty, lingering with notes of pink grapefruit in the finish. Aged in stainless and neutral oak. 12.5% alcohol. 75 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $28
2015 Ernest Vineyards “Bombardier – Black Emerald Vineyards” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon curd and white flowers. In the mouth, flavors of lemon juice, lemon pith, white flowers and a touch of toasty bread slide silkily across the palate. Slightly lower in acidity than I would like, coming across as quite delicate, but tasty nonetheless. 13% alcohol. 215 cases produced. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $42 click to buy.
2013 Cobb Wines “Diane Cobb – Coastlands Vineyard ” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of red apple skin, crushed herbs, and wet earth. In the mouth, beautifully silky flavors of dried flowers, crushed herbs and raspberry fruit sizzle with electric acidity as the wine finishes earthy and leafy. Gorgeous. 12.5% alcohol. 275 cases produced. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $85 click to buy.
2013 Cobb Wines “Jack Hill Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light ruby in color, this wine smells of dried flowers, marijuana resin, and redcurrants. In the mouth, beautifully bright redcurrant and raspberry flavors have that marijuana resin quality along with notes of crushed fresh herbs and citrus peel. Great vibrant acidity and length. 12.5% alcohol. 200 cases produced. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $75 click to buy.
2013 Cobb Wines “Rice-Spivak Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light ruby in color, this wine smells of wet earth and crushed fresh herbs tinged with redcurrant. In the mouth redcurrant and raspberry fruit have a tight sour cherry brightness thanks to excellent acidity. Great herbs and citrus peel notes in the finish. Fantastic. 12.8% alcohol. 450 cases produced. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $70 click to buy.
2014 Cobb Wines “Rice-Spivak Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of juicy, bright raspberry fruit with a hint of sweet oak on top. In the mouth, bright raspberry and redcurrant flavors have a hint of brown sugar and oak notes to them. Juicy bright acidity keeps the fruit fresh and vibrant in the mouth. Aromatically sweet finish. 13.3% alcohol. 310 cases produced. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $75 click to buy.
2014 Nickel & Nickel “State Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville, Napa, California
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of cassis and black cherry fruit with a hint of espresso. In the mouth, cassis and black cherry fruit flavors are very juicy with excellent acidity even as they are held firmly in a muscular fist of tannin. Notes of earth and espresso linger in the finish, but the wood is quite well integrated here. 14.7% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $100 click to buy.
2014 Nickel & Nickel “John C. Sullenger Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, California
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet cassis and blackberries. In the mouth, juicy cassis and black cherry fruit is kissed with oak and wrapped in a thick blanket of tannins. Excellent acidity keeps the fruit fresh and the wood is quite well integrated. In 2-3 years, this wine will be singing. 14.2% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $100 click to buy.
2014 Nickel & Nickel “Martin Stelling Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and tobacco. In the mouth, cherry, tobacco, and notes of espresso have a vibrant brightness thanks to excellent acidity. Fine grained tannins float through the mouth and across the palate, with floral notes lingering in the finish. Very fine. 14.3% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $160 click to buy.
2014 Bella Union Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, California
Very dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and black cherry fruit with a dose of cassis. In the mouth, cherry cola and cassis flavors are draped with a fleecy blanket of tannins and show surprisingly stony minerality through the lush fruit. Superb. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $75 click to buy.
2012 Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry, wet earth, and oak. In the mouth, flavors of cherry, tobacco and forest floor have a very nice brightness to them and a medium, lithe body thanks to excellent acidity and what tastes like restraint on the part of the winemaker. There’s oak here to be sure, but restrained and elegant. 14.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $52 click to buy.
2012 Heitz Cellars “Martha’s Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and this wine’s unmistakable eucalyptus note. In the mouth, cherry and cedar and eucalyptus flavors mix with cassis and a nice floral note. There’s a hint of coconut that mixes with the sweet cherry in the finish. As usual, this wine’s tannins are quite fine and supple, and great acidity makes for a very pretty package. 14.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $235 click to buy.
2013 Flora Springs “Trilogy” Red Blend, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of raisins and chocolate. In the mouth, juicy black cherry and chocolate flavors have a nice bright acidity to them, but the flavors lean a bit riper than I’d like, with notes of dates and raisins in the finish. 14.2% alcohol. 4300 cases produced. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $80 click to buy.