Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This past week included a couple more wines from the Austro-amazing hands of Graham Tatomer, whose command of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are largely unmatched in California. His standard Santa Barbara County Grüner is about as textbook as you can get, and eminently quaffable, as is his Kick-on Ranch Riesling, which offers delicate flavors and great minerality.

I opened up two biodynamically-produced Oregon Chardonnays this week, both of which I can recommend highly. The first is from the perennially-satisfying production of Big Table Farm. Their “The Wild Bee” Chardonnay is always wonderfully delicate, perfumed, and electric with juicy acidity. The second is from Johan Vineyards, which was acquired by Kathering “Mini” Byers in 2021 shortly after acquiring Cowhorn Vineyards the same year, at the remarkable age of 26. I found myself wondering how a 26-year-old manages to acquire two large wine estates in one year, until I realized that Byers’ maiden name is Banks, making her the daughter of major wine investor Charles Banks, who was convicted of fraud in 2017. Let not the sins of the father be laid upon the daughter, presumably? Byers has turned these two biodynamic estates into sister properties, and if this Chardonnay I tasted is any indication, producing excellent wines. The wine was actually quite striking—intensely aromatic and quite distinctive in character. I highly recommend it.

This week also featured a number of new releases from Ryme Cellars in Sonoma. This husband-and-wife brand began in 2007 when Megan and Ryan Glaab decided to make wine from the ton of Aglianico they managed to get their hands on. This was followed soon after by “His” and “Hers” Vermentinos, his made with skin contact, hers made in a more classic style. Since then they’ve made many excellent wines from lesser-known grape varieties around California, always bringing a deft, restrained touch to their efforts. This past week their “Hers” Vermentino and Grenache were singing, their Fiano bright and steely, their Aglianico dark and alluring, and their Cabernet, herbal and savory.

I was recently introduced to the wines of Birdhorse, a wife-and-wife project started by Corinne Rich (assistant winemaker at Scribe) and Katie Rouse (assistant winemaker at Bedrock Wine Co.). These two ladies met and fell in love while working a harvest in South Africa. After returning to California and settling into their respective gigs making wine for others, they decided to make some wine together. And aren’t we glad they did!? Their wines are electric, fresh, and thrilling. Check out their lemony-neon-light-in-a-glass Verdelho or their incredibly floral and juicy Cinsault, or the mouthwatering Valdiguié. Their Barbera may be the best that I’ve ever had from California. Just sayin’. These wines are largely undiscovered, and priced that way, so get in while the getting is good!

Notes on all these below.

Tasting Notes

2021 Tatomer Grüner Veltliner, Santa Barbara County, California
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of Asian pear, chamomile, and herbs. In the mouth, juicy and bright pear and apple flavors are shot through with chamomile and lemongrass flavors. Excellent acidity and wonderful stony minerality. Classically profiled and delicious, with just the barest hint of salinity. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: around 9. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2020 Tatomer Kick-on Ranch Riesling, Santa Barbara County, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of citrus oil, honeysuckle, and Asian pear. In the mouth, stony flavors of citrus oil, wet chalkboard, and Asian pear have a nice filigreed acidity, and just enough aromatic sweetness to keep the wine from being austere. 12.5% alcohol. 150 cases produced. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $38. click to buy.

2021 Big Table Farm “The Wild Bee” Chardonnay, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon pith and lemon blossoms. In the mouth, wonderfully bright lemon pith and orange peel flavors are bright with fantastic acidity, while stony wet chalkboard notes emerge through the citrus haze to leave a faintly chalky sensation in the finish along with floral scents. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2019 Johan Vineyards Chardonnay, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light yellow-gold in the glass, this wine smells intensely of marijuana resin, candied lemon peel, and a hint of butterscotch. In the mouth, bright flavors of lemon oil, lemon juice, juniper, and bergamot are backed by excellent acidity and a nice underlying stoniness. Intense and unusual. Demeter-certified biodynamic. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2021 Ryme Cellars “Rancho Coda” Fiano, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Pale yellow-gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet pavement and citrus pith. In the mouth, the wine is quite silky with bright lemony wet chalkboard flavors backed by a hint of piney aromatic herbs. Citrus peel and pith linger in the finish along with a faint chalkiness. Very tasty. 13.1% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $22. click to buy.

2022 Ryme Cellars “Hers – Las Brisas Vineyard” Vermentino, Carneros, Sonoma, California
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of citrus pith, lemon juice, and Asian pears. In the mouth, lithe and gorgeously bright flavors of lemon peel, lemon juice, orange peel and pears are juicy with fantastic acidity and taut with just the faintest hint of tannic grip. Kumquat and blood orange linger in the finish. Excellent. 12.8% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $27. click to buy.

2022 Birdhorse Wines Vermentino, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Palest greenish gold in color, this wine smells of lemon cucumber, apples, and Asian pears. In the mouth, green apple, Asian pear, lemon cucumber and white flowers have a bright and juicy zip to them thanks to excellent acidity. There’s a faint saline note in the finish. Delicious. 13.2% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2022 Birdhorse Wines Verdelho, Contra Costa County, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon curd, wet pavement, and white flowers. In the mouth, fantastically bright lemon curd and lemon peel flavors are zingy and juicy with excellent acidity and a wonderful sour lemon quality that pervades the finish, along with a hint of florals. Delicious. 12.3% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2021 Birdhorse Wines Cinsaut, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of flowers and forest berries. In the mouth, bright berries, herbs, dried flowers and a touch of earthiness have a juicy brightness and a faint cotton-ball tannic grip. Perfumed and quite delectable. 13.8% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $38. click to buy.

2021 Ryme Cellars “Petrichor Vineyard” Grenache, Fountain Grove District, Sonoma, California
Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of strawberries, herbs and dried flowers. In the mouth, a light powdery veil of tannins brushes around the edges of salty strawberry and chopped herb flavors with just a hint of citrus peel in the finish. Gorgeously juicy, bright and with a fantastic balance between savory notes and fruit. A terrific wine. 14.1% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $55.

2022 Birdhorse Wines Valdiguié, Suisun Valley, California
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of sour cherry and huckleberries. In the mouth, cassis and huckleberry flavors are bright, juicy, and tangy with a hint of citrus peel. Excellent acidity, faint gauzy tannins, and beautiful balance. Delicious. 14.2% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2020 Birdhorse Wines Barbera, Amador County, Sierra Foothills, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass with ruby highlights, this wine smells of orange peels, blood oranges, and cherries. In the mouth, faintly saline flavors of blood orange, orange peel, cherry and aromatic herbs are dazzlingly bright with excellent acidity and remarkable depth. The faintest of tannins brings texture to the wine through the perfumed finish. Outstanding. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2019 Ryme Cellars “Massa Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry, green herbs, and a touch of pipe tobacco. In the mouth, cherry, green bell pepper, a touch of sawdust and earth mix with incense and a bit of dried herbs. Excellent acidity, and powdery, supple tannins. Very savory. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $46. click to buy.

2019 Ryme Cellars “Luna Matta Vineyard” Aglianico, Paso Robles, Central Coast, California
Medium to dark ruby in the glass, this wine smells of licorice, leather, and black cherries. In the mouth, dark black cherry and licorice flavors have a thick powdery tannic backbone that stiffens as the wine moves across the palate. Dark floral and licorice notes linger in the finish with a hint of orange oil. 14.4% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $55. click to buy.