Attending trade auctions at which the wine industry offers special barrel lots that are generally unobtainable by ordinary consumers serves two purposes from my point of view.
Firstly, these special barrels of wine are often the creme-de-la-creme of a winery’s production and an interesting gauge of what a winery thinks is their best stuff. I enjoy evaluating a best effort and using it as a benchmark for what a winery might be capable of. Of course, not every winery puts the same level of effort or care into these auction lots, but generally, they’re pretty representative of a producer’s best abilities.
Secondly, given that the auction lots are all barrel samples, they are quite often all from the same year and therefore provide a horizontal look at the quality potential of a given vintage.
All of which brings me to the recent Sonoma County Barrel Auction, which took place last Friday in Healdsburg.
A fundraiser that supports the marketing and advocacy efforts of the Sonoma County Vintners, the barrel auction provides an opportunity for members of the trade (retailers, resaurants, etc) to purchase “one of a kind” wines that are made specially for this event.
This year’s event included 63 barrel lots, which were offered up for tasting on Thursday, May 2nd. A large number of the barrel lots were from the 2023 vintage, which provided me the opportunity to see how that year is shaping up, especially in the context of Sonoma County Pinot Noir.
The 2023 vintage has been heralded as nothing less than epic, with some folks calling it the vintage of a lifetime. It was certainly a calamity-free vintage, marked by a much cooler-than-usual growing season, followed by a warm autumn with no adverse weather events. This allowed winemakers to precisely time their harvests, which yielded fruit with excellent acidity and almost any level of maturity desired.
My read on the vintage, through the lens of the 60 or so wines below, is that it is indeed an excellent one, but I’m not sure yet that I prefer it to 2021, which continues to be my favorite vintage in more than a decade. The 2023s have great acidity and wonderful juicy fruit, but they also have some surprising structure, especially amongst the darker red grapes, but also in Pinot Noir, depending on the level of extraction pursued by the winemaker.
The tasting event yielded similar impressions to those I have formed in previous years. Namely, I continue to be disappointed that some of Sonoma County’s very top wine producers seemingly don’t have an interest in supporting their regional organization by donating barrel lots for the auction. The lineup of auction lots could be significantly more star-studded than it is. I was very happy to see producers such as Pride, Ridge, Aperture, Flowers, Williams-Selyem, Rochioli, Peay, and a few others in the lineup, but there could have been many more exciting barrel lots than there were.
I also continue to be disappointed at the level of attendance at this barrel tasting (I didn’t attend the auction itself, so perhaps more people showed up for that event). It’s not fair to compare it to Premiere Napa Valley, but as someone who attends both events, I am sad to see what appears to be a relative lack of interest and excitement about Sonoma wines. Of course, this more subdued enthusiasm by the trade may well be the explanation for why some of Sonoma’s most sought-after wines don’t offer up their wares for auction.
Of course, the lack of a crowd at a public, walk-around wine tasting makes it a very enjoyable experience for methodical tasters such as myself. It was a beautiful sunny day, with a little wind, and cool temperatures. I had a wonderful time strolling around the main courtyard of Bacchus Landing, savoring what were a number of excellent wines.
The highlight of my tasting was unquestionably the barrel lot from Ridge Vineyards. Lytton Springs winemaker Shauna Rosenblum created something astonishing by combining fruit from the Lytton Springs Vineyard with fruit from their Geyserville Vineyard.
These two ancient vine field blends are among California’s most special and profound wines but have never been combined before now. The result was utterly spectacular. I rarely get the urge to grab a paddle and participate in a trade auction like this, but let me tell you if I thought I could have gotten that auction lot at a reasonable price. I definitely would have tried to buy it. I hope it went to a good home.
I tasted every barrel lot on offer, which I think was all but one sparkling wine that had yet to be disgorged and was therefore not available for tasting. While these individual wines may be tough to find unless and until their new owners put them up for sale, I like to think you can use them as a guide for who to keep an eye on as the 2023 wines come to market.
Tasting Notes
Wine names in bold are followed by the shorthand notes I made about each wine during the tasting in italics. Those notes have only been edited for grammar. Some of the barrel lots on offer were wines that were sold just before the pandemic, but never picked up by their winning bidders, so some producers decided to bring them back for a second go, this time with the added appeal of a little age on them.
White, Pink & Sparkling Wines
White, Pink, and Sparkling Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5
2023 Benziger Family Winery “Mother Earth — Sangiacomo Vineyard” Chardonnay, Carneros Stony peach pit and lemon pith, bright, long, juicy, chalky.
2023 Ernest Vineyards “Edge of the World — Joyce Vineyard” Chardonnay, West Sonoma Coast Juicy, lemon pith, struck match, lemon peel.
2021 Gloria Ferrer “Brut Nature Rosé — Gloria Ferrer Estate Vineyards” Sparkling Rosé, Carneros Juicy and bright, lean, raspberry, redcurrant, quartz-like. Pinot with 8% Chardonnay.
White, Pink, and Sparkling Wines With a Score Around 9
2023 Head High Wines “Nalu ‘Alani” White Blend, Sonoma County Juicy, bright, floral, saline, refreshing.
White, Pink, and Sparkling Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9
2023 Merriam Vineyards “Downeast Old Wente — Eastside Estate” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Juicy, lemon curd, a little tropical. Decent acid.
White, Pink, and Sparkling Wines With a Score Around 8.5
2022 Breathless Sparkling Wines “The Three P’s” Sparkling Wine, Sonoma County Decent flavors. Pinot Noir 34%, Pinot Meunier 33%, Pinot Blanc 33%.
2022 Fisher Vineyards “High Elevation Heritage — Mountain Estate Vineyard” Chardonnay, Sonoma County Lemon pith, lemon peel, juicy, long.
2023 Patz & Hall “Green Valley Dreams — Estate Vineyard” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Herbal, bright, excellent acid, lemon peel.
2023 Rombauer Vineyards “Homage to Home — Home Ranch” Chardonnay, Carneros Nicely lean. Lemony.
White, Pink, and Sparkling Wines With a Score Between 8 and 8.5
2022 Thompson 31Fifty Wines “3 Block” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley Too much oak. Good acid.
Red Wines
Red Wines With a Score Between 9.5 and 10
2023 Ridge Vineyards “Historic Zinfandel Vineyards” Red Blend, Sonoma County Gorgeous, juicy, supple, fine tannins, balanced to the point of effortlessness. Hint of coconut, juicy. Zinfandel 67%, Petite Sirah 15%, Carignane 15%, Mataro 2%, Alicante Bouschet 1%. The first- ever blend of Geyserville and Lytton Springs. Outstanding.
Red Wines With a Score Around 9.5
2022 Aperture Cellars “Block 12 — Farrow Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley Rich, supple, bright, sweet, good acid. Ripe, but effortless.
2023 Joseph Swan Vineyards, Arista Winery “Three Birds Squared” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Bright raspberry, herbs, juicy, great acid, supple tannins, long.
2017 Peay Vineyards, Alma Fria “West Sonoma Coast Vintners: Annapolis” Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast Elegant, supple, bright, juicy. Raspberry and cranberry. Wow.
2022 Rochioli Vineyards and Winery, Bacigalupi Vineyards, & Ramey Wine Cellars “Heirloom” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Beautiful, fresh, bright, long, raspberry juicy, herbs, muscular tannins.
Red Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5
2023 Convene, by Dan Kosta “Western Wind” Pinot Noir, West Sonoma Coast Juicy, bright cranberry and raspberry, light grippy tannins, Long. Supple.
2023 Davis Bynum “Billy Swan — Dutton Ranch – Billy Gregori” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Juicy, bright redcurrant, citrus, zippy, lovely.
2023 DuMOL “Over the Hillside” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Bright raspberry, silky, smooth, great acid, citrus.
2023 Domaine de la Rivière “Barrel Brothers — Vineyard Eleven” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Bright raspberry, redcurrant, tight tannins, great acid.
2023 Flowers Vineyards & Winery “Three Ridgelines” Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview Bright raspberry, herbs, redcurrant, tight tannins. Earth.
2023 Fort Ross Vineyard “Terraces Above the Fog — Fort Ross Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Fort Ross-Seaview Raspberry fruit, juicy redcurrant, light. Herbs give a hint of green.
2023 Williams Selyem Winery “20-1-20” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Juicy, bright, raspberry, herbs, hint of new oak. Gauzy tannins.
2022 Sojourn Cellars “Nude on the Left Bank — Desnudo Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley Bright, juicy cherry, herbs, tobacco, long, Fine tannins.
2023 Saintsbury Winery “In the Garden” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Bright, juicy, raspberry and cranberry, herbs, grippy.
Red Wines With a Score Around 9
2022 Pride Mountain Vineyards “First & Five — Rock Arch Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Juicy, long, cherry, fine tannins, sweet oak.
2023 Banshee Wines “Wind & Fog” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Bright redcurrant and raspberry, herbs, light grippy tannins.
2023 BACA Wines “Tug O’ War Adventure — Maffei Vineyard” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley Juicy, bright, delicious. Berries and earth.
2023 Brooks Note Winery “Ash and Wind Sweet Family Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Petaluma Gap Redcurrant, herbs, lithe, bright, raspberry, long.
2023 DeLoach Vineyards “In Vino Concordia” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Juicy, bright, long, cherry, raspberry.
2023 Emeritus Vineyards “Untamed — Hallberg Ranch” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Bright, great acid, raspberry, redcurrant chopped green herbs.
2023 Kosta Browne “The Green Valley Cuvée” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Tight, fresh, cherry, cranberry, raspberry, dried herbs.
2023 MacRostie Winery, Merry Edwards Winery “A Tale of Two Heidis” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Juicy, bright, cranberry, raspberry, light grippy tannins.
2023 Mascarin Family Wines “Blue Moon” Cabernet Sauvignon, Moon Mountain District Juicy, bright, raspberry, herbs, gauzy tannins, floral.
2015 Joseph Swan Vineyards “Russian River Valley Rocks and Sand (RockSand!)” Syrah, Russian River Valley Juicy, cherry, citrus peel surprising amount of oak.
2023 Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Three Sticks Wines “Clone Alone — Gap’s Crown Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Juicy, cherry and raspberry, tight tannins, great acid.
2023 WALT Wines “1,000 Miles of Pinot — Bob’s Ranch Estate Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Bright cherry, cranberry, hint of bitter greens in the finish.
Red Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9
2023 Balletto Vineyards “Classic Sebastopol Hills” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Fruity, even grapey, bright raspberry, good acid, herbs, whole cluster stemmy.
2022 ACTA Wine “Deeds Not Words — Battle Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley Sweet cherry, ripe, supple tannins, good acid.
2022 Brandon Gregory Estate “The Journey Brookshire Vineyard” Bordeaux Blend, Knights Valley Ripe, sweet black cherry, supple tannins, sweet oak. Softer acid. 26% Cabernet Franc.
2022 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Selection” Zinfandel, Sonoma County Blackberry, juicy, grippy tannins, oak, good acid. 17% Petite Sirah.
2023 Domaine Della “Passion Obsession and Love” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast Raspberry, cherry, cedar, new oak.
2023 Ektimo Vineyards “Transcendent Estate Cuvée” Pinot Noir, Green Valley Berries, citrus, grippy tannns.
2022 Laurel Glen Vineyard “What’s Old is New Again — Laurel Glen Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Mountain Cherry, oak, fresh, bright.
2023 Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery “New Kid on the River Block — Rochioli Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Cranberry, cherry, tight tannins, fresh.
2023 Mauritson Wines “1868 — Campground Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Rockpile Brawny, fresh, new oak, herbs, great acid. Needs time. 3% Merlot.
2023 The Donum Estate “Black Swan” Pinot Noir, Carneros Earthy, earthy, cherry, raspberry, herbs.. rich. Native yeast no spray.
2023 Twomey “All Aboard — Last Stop Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Cherry, herbs, dusty, good acid.
2022 Silver Oak “Legacy” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley Sunscreen and coconut, supple tannins.
Red Wines With a Score Around 8.5
2023 Chalk Hill Estate Vineyards & Winery “Winner’s Circle” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Raspberry, cranberry, light tannins, good acid.
2022 Marimar Estate Winery “TEMP’rature Rising — Don Miguel Vineyard” Tempranillo, Russian River Valley Chewy, cherry, oak, coconut.
2016 Westwood Estate Winery “Double Trouble — Annadel Gap Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Valley Cherry, meaty, ripe, hint of raisin.
2022 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Eminence — Archimedes Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak Chewy, very tannic, lots of oak, cherry, black cherry, currant.
2023 Pedroncelli Winery, Zialena Winery, Saini Vineyards “Legacy of the Vine” Zinfandel, Sonoma County Grippy blackberry, nice acid.
2023 Martinelli Vineyards & Winery “Ode to Tony Bondi” Pinot Noir, Sonoma County Overly sweet. Plush, ripe, candied cherry.
2023 Nottingham Cellars “Embrace The Franc” Cabernet Franc, Sonoma County Tight cherry, green herbs, oaky.
2023 River Road Family Vineyards and Winery “Stephanie’s Select — River Road Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Green Valley, Russian River Valley Juicy, raspberry, cherry.
2017 Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery “Return to Eden: Tower Block” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Cedar, cherry, herbs.
Red Wines With a Score Between 8 and 8.5
2022 Alexander Valley Vineyards “Primo” Zinfandel, Alexander Valley Blackberry raisin, Long. A bit tired.
2021 Deerfield Ranch Winery “Sonoma Private Reserve Select” Red Blend, Sonoma County Oaky, good acid, but too much wood. Cabernet Sauvignon 60%, Merlot 15%, Malbec 12%, Cabernet Franc 8%, Petit Verdot 5%.
2022 Rodney Strong Vineyards “Knights Delight” Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Oaky, plush, not enough acid. Cherry, blackberry. 13% Malbec.
Red Wines With a Score Around 8
2021 Adobe Road Winery “Fast Cars & Fine Wines” Red Blend, Sonoma County Rich ripe thick, over the top. Sweet. Oaky.
2017 Davis Bynum “Pinot Pioneer — Jane’s Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Feeling a bit tired, raisined.
2022 Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery “PreVail Trio” Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Oaky, lush, ripe, grapey. Drying tannins.
