Most of you know by now that I have a thing for old vines. I love them. And I love the wines produced from old vines. Why? Because they amplify so much of the intangible magic that wine represents.

Hear me out. Each (single vineyard) wine represents a snapshot of a unique year in the life of a specific place—a sum total of weather, time, and human toil. But old vines, especially those whose lives extend to many decades or even into centuries, represent all that and more.

In addition to being the cumulative product of all that time—survivors who have weathered everything that nature has thrown at them for a lifetime—they also are the living incarnation of culture from another time. They represent choices made by individuals and societies long past, choices informed by traditions, habits, and happenstance. Across the ages, they transmit aspects of daily life and profound beliefs that we are capable of tasting when we open a bottle.

What’s more, the oldest of these vines often represent genetic material—entire varieties, or clonal variations—that in some cases have been lost to history. Recent science has demonstrated that the notoriously unstable genome of our beloved grape Vitis Vinifera undergoes significant change within the lifetime of the plant itself. We call this epigenetic drift, and we’re not entirely sure why and how it happens, but it almost certainly occurs (at least in part) as a result of the interaction between a grapevine and its environment.

This means that your average 90-year-old grapevine might well be different in very significant ways from the vine that was planted so many decades ago. Importantly, that vine may have “learned” how to cope with the changing climate in ways that can be supremely useful for growers today.

But only if that vine stays in the ground.

Which is why organizations such as the Historic Vineyard Society exist. Started in 2011 by Tegan Passalacqua, Morgan Twain-Peterson, Mike Dildine, Mike Officer, and David Gates, the organization catalogs and certifies vineyards older than 50 years in California in an effort to celebrate and preserve the state’s living viticultural heritage.

Once a year, the Historic Vineyard Society puts on a tasting event where the sole criterion for pouring wine is that it has to have come from one of those historic vineyards.

Held at Fort Mason in San Francisco this past spring, the tasting featured well over 100 wines from these vineyards, poured for an enthusiastic crowd by several dozen producers. I was really pleased to see both the number of people who turned out for this tasting, as well as their unbridled enthusiasm. For a few hours, it felt like the old days of public wine tastings in San Francisco, circa 2004.

As you can imagine, I was like a kid in a candy store at this event. Unfortunately, other obligations meant I wasn’t able to stay for the entire tasting period, but I got a solid two or three hours of tasting some pretty fantastic wines.

Of course, being made from old vines doesn’t mean a wine is inherently better. Just like being certified organic or biodynamic doesn’t mean inherently better wine.

But the wineries that own old vine vineyards, as well as those smaller producers who seek out old vine fruit to purchase for their wines, often bring a level of attention and care to their winemaking (often including non-interventionalist techniques such as ambient yeast fermentation and limited use of new oak) that results in wines that I really enjoy drinking.

Here are my highlights from the tasting, interspersed with some photos I dug up of some of the vineyards represented.

Tasting Notes

The following notes and scores were made at a walk-around tasting, which means the wines have not received the same time and attention they would have under my typical, more controlled tasting conditions.

White Wines With a Score Around 9.5

2023 Bedrock Wine Co. “Compagni Portis Heritage Vineyard” White Blend, Sonoma Valley, California
Near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of elderflower, melon, apple, and other floral notes. In the mouth, melon and elderflower mix with green apple in a crisp, bright, and faintly saline shimmering technicolor experience on the palate. Totally delicious. Cost: $45. click to buy.

White Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5

2023 Fine Disregard Wine Co. “Chalone Vineyard” Chenin Blanc, Monterey County, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of pear skin, pear, and pastry cream. In the mouth, pear skin, pear, and peachy aromas mix with a hint of vanilla. Excellent acidity. Cost: $32. click to buy.

2023 I. Brand Family Wines “Massa Vineyard” Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon pith, pear, and grapefruit. In the mouth, lemon pith, grapefruit, pear, and wet stone flavors are juicy and bright. Cost: $36.

2023 Maître de Chai “Ellison Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of bright lemon and floral aromas. In the mouth, saline, stony flavors of electric lemon pith, unripe apple, and crabapple zing with fantastic acidity. Cost: $38. click to buy.

White Wines With a Score Around 9

2022 Marietta “Nadi – Wirz Vineyard” Riesling, San Benito County, Central Coast, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of pear and citrus peel. In the mouth, pear and citrus oil flavors are stony and long with bright salinity. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2023 Cruse Wine Co. “Rorick Heritage Vineyard” Chardonnay, Sierra Foothills, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon pith and peel. In the mouth, lemon pith and lemon peel flavors are stony and bright with a chalky texture and faint salinity. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2023 Desire Lines Wine Co. “Cole Ranch” Riesling, Cole Ranch, California
Pale green-gold in the glass, this wine smells of mandarin zest, lime, and pear. In the mouth, pear, lemon, and mandarin flavors are bright and zippy. Cost: . click to buy.

2021 Desire Lines Wine Co. “Crown Jewel – Wiley Vineyard” Riesling, Anderson Valley, Mendocino, California
Pale green-gold in the glass, this wine smells of floral notes, pear, and vanilla. In the mouth, bright floral character, Asian pear, and juicy grapefruit flavors have excellent acidity. Cost: $27. click to buy.

2021 Fine Disregard Wine Co. “Chalone Vineyard” Chenin Blanc, Monterey County, California
Pale greenish-gold in the glass, this wine smells of pear skin, lemon, and grapefruit. In the mouth, pear, grapefruit, and lemon flavors are stony and bright with good acidity. Cost: $36. click to buy.

White Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9

2018 Under the Wire “Bedrock Heritage Vineyard” Sparkling Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, California
Palest gold in the glass with fine bubbles, this wine smells of apples and citrus pith. In the mouth, stony citrus pith, apples, and a hint of savory herbs are delivered on a nice mousse. Cost: $65.

2023 Martha Stoumen Wines “Honeymoon” White Blend, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers and sweet cucumber and citrus pith. In the mouth, flavors of apple, sweet cucumber, and white flowers are lifted by bright acidity. Cost: $39. click to buy.

2023 Âmevive “Ibarra-Young Vineyard Estate” Marsanne, Los Olivos, Santa Barbara, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of bee pollen, lemon peel, and pear. In the mouth, pear, chamomile, and dried herb flavors leave a chalky texture on the palate. Very good acidity. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2022 Forlorn Hope “Rorick Heritage Vineyard” Chardonnay, Sierra Foothills, California
Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon and apples. In the mouth, green apple and lemon pith flavors have a chalky texture and very good acidity. Cost: $35.

White Wines With a Score Around 8.5

2020 Stirm “Wirz Vineyard” Riesling, Cienega Valley, Central Coast, California
Light gold with a hint of bronze in the glass, this wine smells of pear, citrus, and rosemary. In the mouth, pear, rosemary, and orange peel mix with good acidity and a hint of bitterness. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2019 Bedrock Wine Co. “Alta Vista Vineyard” Gewürztraminer, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma, California
Light to medium gold in the glass, this wine smells of citrus peel and lychee. In the mouth, lychee, citrus peel, and white peach flavors are silky and somewhat softer than I would like. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2023 Louis M. Martini “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Semillon, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon cucumber, and wet stone. In the mouth, lean cucumber and citrus flavors mix with wet stone. Softer than I would like. Cost: ??

2022 Reichwage “White – Mancini Ranch” White Blend, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of apple and pear. In the mouth, apple, pear, and white flowers show, but the wine needs more acidity. Cost: $30.

Red Wines With a Score Between 9.5 and 10

2021 Corison “Kronos Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of floral notes, cherry, and a hint of oak. In the mouth, cherry and dried flowers mix with earthy tones, dusty tannins, great acidity, and a long finish. Outstanding and utterly compelling. Score: between 9.5 and 10. Cost: $225. click to buy.

Red Wines With a Score Between 9 and 9.5

2022 Precedent “Spenker Ranch” Carignan, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of floral notes, berries, and a hint of cola. In the mouth, flavors of berries, cola, herbs, and flowers are carried by bright, juicy acidity. Faint tannins. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2021 Precedent “Kirschenmann Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of cherries, boysenberries, and dried flowers. In the mouth, blackberry and raspberry flavors mix with bright, juicy acidity, light tannins. Long. Cost: $37. click to buy.

1993 Ravenswood “Belloni Vineyard” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Hazy ruby with coffee highlights in the glass, this wine smells of redwood bark, red miso, red licorice, and herbs. In the mouth, zippy and bright raspberry flavors mix with dried herbs, peach yogurt, and amazing acidity. Long.

2023 Ridge “Geyserville” Red Blend, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries, licorice, herbs, and dried flowers. In the mouth, seamless blackberry, licorice, herbs, root beer, and dried flowers combine with excellent acidity. Supple tannins. Cost: $58. click to buy.

2023 Sandlands “Bechtold Vineyard” Cinsault, Lodi, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of ethereal floral notes, black raspberry, and a hint of plum. In the mouth, bright raspberry and plum flavors mix with tight gauzy tannins and a lean, zippy acidity. Cost: $28.

2023 Sandlands Mataro, San Benito County, Central Coast, California
Medium garnet with purple highlights, this wine smells of floral notes, citrus peel, and blackberries. In the mouth, blueberry bright mixed berry flavors are wrapped in muscular, fleecy tannins. Great acidity. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2021 Martha Stoumen Wines “Ricetti Vineyard” Carignan, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Hazy medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of plums and berries. In the mouth, plummy and berry flavors are supported by light, fleecy tannins, juicy acidity, and a hint of salinity. Cost: $41. click to buy.

2023 Âmevive “Ibarra-Young Vineyard Estate” Syrah, Los Olivos, Santa Barbara, California
Dark garnet with purple highlights, this wine smells of iodine, blackberries, and wet steel. In the mouth, powdery, mouthcoating tannins wrap around flavors of iodine, wet metal, and dark fruit. Fine tannins with great acidity and a long finish. Savory and mysterious. Cost: $48. click to buy.

2023 Âmevive “Ibarra-Young Vineyard Mourvèdre” Mourvèdre, Los Olivos, Santa Barbara, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and citrus peel. In the mouth, salty blueberry, citrus peel, and black tea flavors are wrapped in powdery tannins. Herbs linger in the finish. Excellent acidity. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2019 Bedrock Wine Co. Mourvèdre, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of citrus, blueberry, and black cherry. In the mouth, juicy, salty black cherry and citrus peel flavors are wrapped in fine powdery tannins. Excellent acidity.

2024 Emme Wines “Ricetti Vineyard – Pink Lemonade” Field Blend, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of bright floral and sour cherry aromas. In the mouth, flavors of sour cherry, raspberry, plum, and floral notes are bright and crunchy with acidity. Delicious. Cost: $26. click to buy.

2022 Limerick Lane “1910 Block” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry and boysenberry. In the mouth, medium-bodied and elegant flavors of strawberry and blackberry are wrapped in fine, powdery tannins. Great acidity. Cost: $68. click to buy.

2022 Limerick Lane “Marquis Vineyard” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of boysenberry, herbs, and flowers. In the mouth, boysenberry, herbs, flowers, tea, and dried flowers are wrapped in fine tannins and bright with excellent acidity. Cost: $72. click to buy.

2023 Maître de Chai “Stampede Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, herbs, and strawberries. In the mouth, strawberry and cherry flavors are wrapped in gauzy tannins while floral notes of herbs linger in the finish. Great acidity and lift. Cost: $34. click to buy.

Red Wines With a Score Around 9

2023 Âmevive “Ibarra-Young Vineyard Estate Périphérie” Red Blend, Los Olivos District, Santa Barbara, California
Pale garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries, herbs, and flowers. In the mouth, floral berries, herbs, and crushed stone flavors have a crunchy acidity, and a juicy, long finish. A blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Marsanne Cost: $34. click to buy.

2023 Bedrock Wine Co. “Montecillo Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry, plum, and earth. In the mouth, fleecy tannins support flavors of black cherry, plum, and black tea. Very good acidity. Powdery texture in the finish. Cost: $100. click to buy.

2023 Bedrock Wine Co. “Bedrock Heritage Vineyard” Carignan, Sonoma County, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, black plum, and herbs. In the mouth, black cherry, a hint of cola, and herbs mix with earth, great acidity, and leathery tannins. Cost: $60. click to buy.

2022 Biale “Aldo’s Vineyard” Zinfandel, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry, floral notes, herbs, and a hint of licorice. In the mouth, juicy blueberry and raspberry mix with citrus peel and licorice, lifted by great acidity. Faint tannins. Cost:??

2023 Desire Lines Wine Co. “Evangelho Vineyard” Red Blend, Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries and tea. In the mouth, black cherry, berries are wrapped in smooth, fine tannins, and bright with great acidity. Cost: $30. click to buy.

2023 Emme Wines Zinfandel, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Medium purple in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries and boysenberries. In the mouth, muscular tannins surround bright, almost saline flavors of blackberry, cherry, and black tea. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2022 Fine Disregard Wine Co. “Los Parajes” Carignan, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries, flowers, and herbs. In the mouth, berries, herbs, and dried flowers are surrounded by gauzy tannins. Cost: $39. click to buy.

2022 I. Brand Family Wines “Bates Ranch” Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of dried flowers, cherry, and struck match. In the mouth, powdery tannins enclose cherry and sour cherry flavors with floral notes and hints of dusty earth. Great acidity. Cost: $50. click to buy.

2022 I. Brand Family Wines “Massa Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, California
Light to medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of green herbs, floral, and cherry notes. In the mouth, sour cherry, powdery tannins mix with notes of sarsaparilla and cedar. Great acidity. Cost: $85. click to buy.

2022 Limerick Lane “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Zinfandel, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and raspberry fruit. In the mouth, zippy acidity makes flavors of raspberry, sour cherry, blackberry, and tea positively mouthwatering. Notes of citrus peel linger in the finish. Cost: $72. click to buy.

2021 Marietta “Gibson Block McDowell Ranch” Field Blend, McDowell Valley, Mendocino County, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of iodine, earth, and black cherry. In the mouth, fine powdery tannins give the wine a long, smooth texture, as flavors of blueberry, black tea, iodine, and blackberry linger on the palate. Excellent acidity. Cost: $44. click to buy.

2023 Once and Future Wine Co. “Belloni Vineyard” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and black plum. In the mouth, bright cedar, blackberry, and brambly plum flavors mix with zippy acidity and a hint of peach. Cost: $44.

2023 Perlegos “Stampede Vineyard” Zinfandel, Clements Hills, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of blueberries and raspberries. In the mouth, bright and juicy berry flavors are zippy with great acidity and hints of cinnamon. Tannins with the texture of peanut butter. Cost: $22. click to buy.

2021 Precedent “Evangelho Vineyard” Zinfandel, Contra Costa County, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry, blackberries, and dark chocolate. In the mouth, blackberries and dark chocolate mix with muscular tannins and great acidity. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2023 Sandlands “Red Table Wine” Red Blend, Lodi, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sour cherry, plum, and plum skin. In the mouth, plum skin and sour cherry mix with grippy tannins, citrus peel, and black tea as fantastic acidity makes the mouth water. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2023 Sandlands Carignan, Contra Costa County, California
Medium garnet with purple highlights, this wine smells of berries, floral notes, and a hint of gunpowder. In the mouth, plum and cherry are wrapped in tight tannins and muscular berry flavors. Excellent acidity. Cost: $30. click to buy.

2022 St. Amant “Mohr-Fry Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and blackberries. In the mouth, cocoa powder, blackberry, blueberry, and dried floral notes combine with great acidity. Cost: $24. click to buy.

2022 Martha Stoumen Wines Valdiguié, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Hazy pale garnet in the glass, this wine smells of floral notes, sour cherry, and cranberry. In the mouth, sour cherry and sour plum (umeboshi) flavors are bright and juicy. Cost: $39.

2022 Williams Selyem “Bacigalupi Vineyard” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet with hints of purple in the glass, this wine smells of blueberry with floral notes. In the mouth, blueberry and floral notes mix with a hint of oak, smooth tannins, and great acidity. Cost: $100. click to buy.

Red Wines With a Score Between 8.5 and 9

2022 Biale “Pioneer Series – Gaudi Carli Vineyard” Barbera, Calistoga, Napa, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherry, dried herbs, and a touch of barnyard. In the mouth, black cherry flavors and fleecy tannins lead to a smooth finish with good acidity. Cost: $31.

2022 Biale “Pagani Vineyard” Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and licorice. In the mouth, muscular tannins wrap around flavors of blackberry, black cherry, oak, and licorice. Dense and dark. Cost: $50. click to buy.

2022 Biale “Palisades Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, California
Dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries, cocoa powder, and black cherry. In the mouth, black cherry, licorice flavors are wrapped in thick, fleecy tannins and supported by good acidity. Cost: $65. click to buy.

2023 Pastori “Centurion” Zinfandel, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of floral notes, blackberry, and licorice. In the mouth, licorice and blackberry mix with floral tones, smooth powdery tannins, and good acidity. Cost: $50.

2022 Puccioni “Puccioni Ranch” Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry, raisin, fig, and licorice. In the mouth, fleecy tannins support earthy blackberry flavors with good acidity. Cost: $39. click to buy.

2021 Reichwage “Mancini Ranch” Carignan, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of berries and herbs. In the mouth, mixed berries, cherry, and raspberry combine with tight tannins. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2022 Ridge “Blasi Vineyard” Zinfandel, Chalk Hill, Sonoma, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of brown sugar, blackberries, and herbs. In the mouth, blackberry and raisins mix with tacky tannins, road dust, and great acidity. Cost: $42. click to buy.

2023 St. Amant “Marian’s Vineyard” Zinfandel, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of nutty blackberry and currant aromas. In the mouth, floral blackberry and blueberry flavors mix with plush, fleecy tannins. Cost: $25. click to buy.

2023 Stirm “Wirz Vineyard” Rosa del Peru, Cienega Valley, Central Coast, California
Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of earthy berries. In the mouth, earthy and brambly berries mix with flowers, plum skin, and great acidity. Cost: $33.

2022 Stirm “Wirz Vineyard” Zinfandel, Cienega Valley, Central Coast, California
Light to medium garnet to ruby in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and plum. In the mouth, muscular, thick tannins, herbs, and dried wood support blackberry and licorice flavors. Great acidity. Contains 10% Riesling. Cost: $36. click to buy.

2023 Martha Stoumen Wines “Hawkeye Ranch” Pinot Noir, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of brambly cranberry and cherry. In the mouth, crunchy and chalky berry flavors are lean with bright acidity. Cost: $55. click to buy.

2023 Emme Wines “Ricetti Vineyard” Carignane, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Medium purple in the glass, this wine smells of berries, earth, and tea. In the mouth, grippy, muscular tannins surround a crunchy texture of tea, berries, and herbs. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2023 Fest Wine Co. “Van der Kamp” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry and pomegranate. In the mouth, raspberries and sour cherries are tangy and bright. Cost: $54.

2022 Fest Wine Co. “Van der Kamp” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma, California
Light to medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of raspberry and sour cherry. In the mouth, raspberry, sour cherry, and red currant flavors are wrapped in gauzy tannins. Cost: $56. click to buy.

2023 Fine Disregard Wine Co. “Los Meganos” Carignan, Contra Costa County, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of green herbs, berries, and plum. In the mouth, berries, more herbal tones, earth, and dust. Cost: $30.

2012 I. Brand Family Wines “Besson Vineyard” Grenache, Santa Clara County, California
Medium to light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry, herbs, and flowers. In the mouth, dried flowers and strawberry flavors are wrapped in dusty tannins.

2021 I. Brand Family Wines “Besson Vineyard” Grenache, Santa Clara County, California
Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of strawberry, herbs, and earth. In the mouth, earthy strawberry, dried herbs, and flowers, are wrapped in powdery tannins. Cost: $48.

2022 Kokomo “Monte Rosso” Zinfandel, Moon Mountain, Sonoma, California
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of blackberry and black tea. In the mouth, blackberry, cherry, tea, herbs, and earth offer an intense burst of flavor. Cost: $62.

2023 Perlegos “Mule Plane Carignan” Carignan, Mokelumne River, Lodi, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of bramble, berries, and herbs with a faint funk. In the mouth, flavors of berries and herbs mix with bright acidity, a faint sourish tang, and gauzy tannins. Cost: $30. click to buy.

2023 Ridge “Buchignani Ranch” Zinfandel, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberry, licorice, and herbs. In the mouth, fleecy tannins and herbs mix with American oak, earth, and blackberry. Good acidity. Cost: $42. click to buy.

2022 Williams Selyem “Saitone Estate” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet with hints of purple, this wine smells of sweet blueberry and blueberry fruit and florals. In the mouth, sweet oak and blueberry are wrapped in smooth, seamless tannins. Softer acidity. Cost: $100. click to buy.

Red Wines With a Score Around 8.5

2023 Kokomo “Tollini Vineyard” Carignane, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cranberry, cherry, and sweet oak. In the mouth, sweet oak, cranberry, and cherry flavors mix with notes of tea and putty-like tannins. Cost: $28. click to buy.

2023 Louis Martini “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Zinfandel, Moon Mountain, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of sweet oak and blackberry pie. In the mouth, blackberry pie, brown sugar, raisins, and sweet oak feel a bit overripe. Cost: $83. click to buy.

2021 Reichwage “Mancini Ranch” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberries and raspberries. In the mouth, blackberry and tea flavors combine with drying tannins and good acidity. Cost: $30.

2023 St. Amant “Heritage Red” Red Blend, Lodi, California
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of oak, blackberries, and blueberries. In the mouth, oaky notes mix with blueberry, blackberry, and leathery tannins. A bit too woody. Cost: $25.

2022 Stirm Cabernet Pfeffer, San Benito County, Central Coast, California
Light garnet in the glass, this wine smells of peppery, unripe blackberry, and sour cherries. In the mouth, black pepper, sour cherry, dried herbs, and black tea combine in a savoury structure. Cost: $38. click to buy.