Hello and welcome to this week’s dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.

This week included the latest release of one of Spain’s top sparkling wines, the Manuel Raventós Negra bottling from Raventós i Blanc. This represents a blend of the best fruit from every vintage, assembled by Pepe Raventós (in this case, a blend of Xarel-lo and Macabeo) aged for 70 months on the lees before disgorgement. It’s done in a brut nature style, but the long lees aging means this is far from austere, offering the wonderful rich autolytic patina that brings with it marzipan and butterscotch.

I also tasted a bunch of new releases from a perennial favorite producer, Unti Vineyards in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley. Owner-winemaker Mick Unti produces a wide range of reliably delicious Italian- and Rhône-inspired wines that are also remarkably reasonable in price, in this day and age. This week I’m reviewing his crisp and bright Vermentino and Grenache Blanc, his floral and delicious rosé of Grenache, and his dark and brooding Montepulciano.

Speaking of favorites, Stewart Johnson’s Viognier from his Kendric Vineyards label continues to be one of my favorite renditions of the tricky white grape from the Northern Rhone. Many efforts in California end up being thick and heavy on the palate, while Stewarts is always bright and zippy. A chilled bottle of this on a sunny day will make for a perfect afternoon.

Anaba Wines of Sonoma sent through a recent release as well: their Felix Hunter Vineyard Pinot Noir, which offers rich cherry flavors amidst a supple, seductive texture. It’s tasty now, but give it 5 to 10 years to really blossom.

Lastly, I recently reviewed a ton of New York Cabernet Franc for readers of Jancis Robinson’s site, but a few bottles came in past my deadline, including the Vintners Pride bottling from Pellegrini Vineyards on Long Island’s North Fork. This wine is a little young yet, and it should reward another decade of aging.

Notes on all these below.

Tasting Notes

2017 Raventos i Blanc “Manuel Raventos Negra Brut Nature” Cava Blend, Spain
Light-to-medium gold in the glass with a hint of bronze and medium-fine bubbles, this wine smells of marzipan, dried orange peels, and lemon curd. In the mouth, a soft, velvety mousse delivers faintly salty flavors of marzipan, butterscotch, dried herbs, citrus pith, and dried hay. Nicely balanced between the savory and fruity, with a very pretty patina of long lees aging. A blend of 70% Xarel·lo and 30% Macabeo aged for about 70 months on the lees in the bottle. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $100. click to buy.

2024 Kendric Vineyards Viognier, Petaluma Gap, Marin County, California
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of ripe apricots, white flowers, and bee pollen. In the mouth, salty, zippy flavors of apricot and peach have a lovely mouthwatering quality thanks to fantastic acidity. Bright, juicy, and delicious, with a hint of orange peel in the finish. 13.1% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $30. click to buy.

2024 Unti Vineyards Vermentino, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of pear, pear skin, yellow flowers, and lemongrass. In the mouth, pear and pear skin flavors mix with dried herbs and a hint of saffron. Very good acidity and length. Destemmed and fermented in concrete, where it aged briefly and malolactic conversion was blocked. 13.5% alcohol. 915 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $37. click to buy.

2024 Unti Vineyards Grenache Blanc, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of melon, apples, and white flowers. In the mouth, juicy flavors of green apple, melon, and citrus pith have a nice brightness thanks to excellent acidity. There’s a faint bitterness in the finish and a light chalky grip. De-stemmed and pressed off skins. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Malolactic conversion blocked. 13.5% alcohol. 250 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2024 Unti Vineyards Rosé of Grenache, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California
Pale salmon colored in the glass, this wine smells of watermelon and orange peel. In the mouth, orange peel, a hint of strawberries, and dried herbs mix with bright, juicy acidity as notes of citrus zest linger in the finish. Silky textured and faintly chalky. Destemmed and pressed with a 2-3 hour skin contact. Fermented and aged in stainless steel and concrete tanks with malolactic conversion blocked. 13.5% alcohol. 728 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $35. click to buy.

2022 Anaba Wines “Felix Hunter Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California
Inky dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of black currant, black cherries, and chopped green herbs. In the mouth, floral flavors of blackberry and black cherry are shot through with blackcurrant and green herbs as fluffy, fleecy tannins coat the mouth. Very good acidity. Aged 20 months in 33% new oak. 13.9% alcohol. 145 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $74.

2022 Pellegrini Vineyards “Vintners Pride” Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, New York
Medium ruby in the glass with garnet highlights, this wine smells of red apple skin, dried cherries, earth, and nut skin. In the mouth, dried herbs and fresh chopped green herbs mix with oak and cola, dried cherries, and earth. Fine tannins coat the mouth and stiffen slightly with time. Decent acidity. 13% alcohol. 190 cases made. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $35.

2023 Unti Vineyards Montepulciano, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cherry and cranberry fruit. In the mouth, smooth cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate pip flavors have a faint, fleecy tannic texture and very good acidity. Destemmed and fermented with ambient yeasts in small open-top tanks. Aged in 40% new French oak. 14.1% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.