Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up on my doorstep asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have arrived recently.

I’ve got some real winners this week, from up and down the West Coast. Let’s start off with some fantastic bubbles, because who wouldn’t want to start off with some fantastic bubbles?

I had the chance to get introduced recently to Concinnitas Farm, a small homestead project in the Yamhill-Carlton District of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. It’s a collaboration between estate owners Nate and Zulima Jones and the winemaking couple of Bree Stock MW and her husband Chad. What started as a casual inquiry to Bree and Chad about what they should plant on their little farm ended up as a tight partnership between the two couples, and their first wines have recently hit the market. I wrote about their still wines as part of my piece Yamill-Carlton – Willamette’s Warm Heart, for Jancis Robinson subscribers this week. But today I’m offering thoughts on their two sparkling wines, a Blanc de Blancs of Chardonnay and Aligoté, and a Blanc de Noirs of Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir. Both are excellent, but the Blanc de Noirs is a beautiful, sexy wine that I can’t wait to drink again.

Sticking with Oregon bubbles for a moment, I’d also like to recommend the Brut Rosé from Gran Moraine, a Jackson Family-owned project in the Willamette Valley that produces excellent still and sparkling wines. On the sparkling front, however, they have amassed what they believe to be the single largest perpetual reserve in the country. This means they’ve been saving and blending a lot of wine for the last decade that they are putting to good use as a blending component in their non-vintage wines, such as this rosé. That solera of old wines adds a noticeable richness and depth to the wine, and makes this pink sparkler particularly charming.

Lastly, I am always very pleased to taste the top bottling from Domaine Carneros each year. Named Le Rêve (“the dream”), it is always a long-lees-aged blanc de blancs that spends at least 6 years in the bottle before disgorging. It sees no wood at all, but all that time in contact with its yeasts in the bottle gives it a richness and sumptuousness that make it one of California’s top sparkling wines each year.

Before we move on to red wines, I’d also like to recommend the latest Chenin Blanc bottling from Aperture Cellars. Winemaker Jesse Katz makes this one fresh and bright, letting the fruit do the talking while a nice stony underbelly gives the wine some complexity.

The folks at Beckham Estate in Oregon sent along a Pinot Noir for me to try this week, which I enjoyed a lot. Beckham is famous for its use of home-made terracotta aging vessels, and this wine was fermented and aged in them to excellent effect. It will appeal to lovers of Oregon Pinot Noir, especially those who enjoy savory components with their fruit. Marijuana resin, anyone?

Sticking with Oregon for just a moment longer, it’s quite important for everyone to know that the state (and even the Willamette Valley) makes more than just Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The region is capable of producing excellent wines from many more grape varieties, and some recent bottles from Björnson Vineyard prove this point extremely well. Their Mondeuse Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Meunier bottlings are all interesting and dynamic. I was particularly excited to taste the Mondeuse as it’s quite a rare variety here in the US, not much plant material having made its way over from the grape’s homeland in France’s Savoie region.

Rhys Vineyards’ Centennial Mountain project has recently gone through a rebranding, and some of the new releases are out now with spiffy new labels and what I’ve come to think of as a steadily increasing level of quality and deliciousness. I liked both of these new releases, a reserve bottling from 2022, and the second edition of the estate’s Solera blend of multiple vintages. Both have a nice lift and brightness, and the complexity that comes from the melange of different Italian grape varieties planted on the estate.

Lastly, I was very pleased to taste the inaugural vintage of a new project in Napa known as Sown Estate. Since 2018 Andrew Greenhalgh and his wife Alexis have been farming a 5-acre mountainside parcel of grapes between Coombsville and Atlas Peak. The vines were planted in 1991. Up until recently, the grapes were sold to boutique wineries in California (notably Maître de Chai), but beginning in 2023, Greenhalgh has decided to bottle a small amount under their own label. There are many things to like about this wine, from its restrained use of oak to its rather sane (relatively) price tag of $165. Now that’s more than I (and many people) would pay for most bottles of wine, but in the world of Napa Cabernet, where new labels regularly debut between $250 and $600 per bottle, that represents a great deal of humility.

That’s it for this week. Notes on all these wines below.

Tasting Notes

2021 Concinnitas Farm “Blanc de Blancs” Sparkling Wine, Yamhill-Carlton District, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light gold in the glass with very fine bubbles, this wine smells of lemon curd, dried herbs, candied yellow apples, and a hint of chamomile. In the mouth, a soft mousse delivers flavors of dried citrus peel, candied citrus, lemon curd, and a touch of baked apple. Rich and ripe, with a faint chalky texture. Distinctive. A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Aligoté Doré pressed as whole clusters and then fermented separately with ambient yeasts in old French oak where the wine is kept on lees for 10 months, then another 10 months in stainless barrels. Aged on the lees in bottle for 26 months. Disgorged in February 2026. Zero dosage. 13.8% alcohol. 90 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $85. click to buy.

2021 Concinnitas Farm “Blanc de Noirs” Sparkling Wine, Yamhill-Carlton District, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium gold in the glass with fine bubbles, this wine smells of berries, candied citrus, and resinous herbs. In the mouth, saline flavors of berries, citrus pith, herbs, and a touch of oyster shell have a wonderfully aromatic sweetness. Rich but not too opulent. Fascinating. A blend of 45% Gamay Noir and 55% Pinot Noir direct-pressed into neutral French oak where it ferments with ambient yeasts. Blended and then held 10 months in barrel, and then 10 more months in tank before bottling for secondary fermentation. Aged for 26 months on the lees in bottle before disgorging. Zero dosage. 13.4% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $85.

2018 Domaine Carneros “Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs” Sparkling Wine, Los Carneros, Sonoma, California
Pale gold in the glass, with medium-fine bubbles, this wine smells of freshly sliced apples, buttered sourdough toast, and sea air. In the mouth, a soft mousse delivers faintly sweet flavors of Golden Delicious apples, toasted oak, crushed nuts, and a hint of vanilla. A faint chalky texture lingers in the finish. Fermented and aged in steel before secondary fermentation in the bottle. Aged on the lees for 6 years before disgorgement. 8 g/L dosage. 12% alcohol. Suitable for vegans. Score: around 9. Cost: $125. click to buy.

NV Gran Moraine “Brut Rosé” Sparkling Wine, Yamhill-Carlton, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pale baby pink in the glass with fine bubbles, this wine smells of rosehips and sour cherries. In the mouth, a silky mousse delivers flavors of citrus peel, wet chalkboard, berries, and sour cherries. There’s great acidity here and a nice balance between fruit and more savory tones. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Includes some perpetual reserve wine going back 10 years. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $65. click to buy.

2024 Aperture “Soil Specific” Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, California
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of pink grapefruit, pear, and pastry cream. In the mouth, silky flavors of pear and pastry cream mix with pear skin and a hint of grapefruit seed. Decent acidity, with a faint chalky texture that lingers in the finish. 13.1% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $38. click to buy.

2023 Beckham Estate “Creta” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light to medium ruby in the glass with garnet highlights, this wine smells of marijuana resin, raspberries, and dried herbs. In the mouth, fleecy tannins coat the mouth and leave a chalky, dusty sensation as flavors of raspberries, chopped fresh herbs, earth, and a hint of cranberries linger through the finish. Interesting and personality-driven, with very good acidity. Fermented and aged in terra cotta vessels with ambient yeasts. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $60. click to buy.

2022 Centennial Mountain “Reserve” Red Blend, Sonoma County, California
Dark ruby in the glass, this wine smells of roofing tar, citrus oils, black cherries, and strawberries. In the mouth, black cherry and strawberry flavors have a wonderful bright juiciness thanks to excellent acidity as leathery tannins coat the mouth and stiffen slightly. Notes of herbs, tobacco, and citrus peel linger in the finish. Nicely balanced and tasty. A blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nebbiolo, Carignan, Primitivo, and Barbera. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $59.

MV Centennial Mountain “Solera II” Red Blend, Sonoma County, California
Medium to dark ruby in the glass with garnet highlights, this wine smells of black cherries, strawberries, and raspberries with a hint of flowers. In the mouth, powdery tannins coat the mouth and turn muscular, and even a little brawny, as flavors of raspberries, sour cherries, and black cherries mix with dried herbs and a hint of licorice root. There’s a faint, sweet oak note that lingers in the finish. A blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nebbiolo, Carignan, Primitivo, and Barbera from multiple vintages. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $69.

2024 Björnson Vineyard “Pamar Vineyard” Mondeuse Noire, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of cranberries, blueberries, and a hint of blackberries. In the mouth, juicy, tangy flavors of blackberries, cranberries, and sour plums are wrapped in gauzy, ethereal tannins. Long and persistent on the palate, with a hint of dried herbs in the finish. Grapes are farmed regeneratively with permanent cover crops. Destemmed without crushing. Aged for 11 months in 35% new French and Hungarian oak. 13.4% alcohol. 175 cases made. Closed with a screwcap. LIVE certified sustainable. Certified Salmon Safe. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2024 Björnson Vineyard “Pamar Vineyard” Pinot Meunier, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Light to medium garnet in the glass, this wine smells of raspberries and cranberries. In the mouth, ripe, primary raspberry and herb notes mix with a hint of strawberry and clove. Faint, gauzy tannins. Notes of cola linger in the finish. Grapes are farmed regeneratively with permanent cover crops. Destemmed without crushing. Aged for 11 months in 25% new French and Hungarian oak. 13.5% alcohol. 100 cases made. Closed with a screwcap. LIVE certified sustainable. Certified Salmon Safe. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $45. click to buy.

2024 Björnson Vineyard “Pamar Vineyard” Cabernet Franc, Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of plum and chopped green herbs. In the mouth, plums, plum skin, cola nut, and a hint of mocha are all wrapped in fleecy, supple tannins that come across as smooth and sensual. Very good acidity. Grapes are farmed regeneratively with permanent cover crops. Destemmed without crushing. Aged for 15 months in 34% new French and Hungarian oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 13.9% alcohol. 220 cases made. LIVE certified sustainable. Certified Salmon Safe. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??

2023 Sown Estate “Gala Mountain Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Very dark, almost opaque garnet in the glass with purple highlights, this wine smells of black cherries and blackcurrants. In the mouth, extremely juicy flavors of black currants, black cherries, and plum skin have a primary fruity quality and a bright acidity. Fleecy tannins coat the mouth and remain supple. There’s a nice chopped-herb undertone to the wine, which comes across as quite young at this point and will benefit from a few years in the bottle. Nicely balanced, with restrained ripeness and excellent acidity. Farmed regeneratively and organically, with no till. Fermented in steel with ambient yeasts. Aged for 18 months in 15% new French oak. 13.6% alcohol. 301 cases made. Overly heavy bottle weighs 1.56 kg when full, though it gets bonus points for being made in California of 75% recycled glass which gives it a lower carbon footprint than a lighter bottle shipped in from China. Score: around 9. Cost: $165. click to buy.