Hello and welcome to my weekly dig through the pile of wine samples that show up on my doorstep asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have arrived recently.
This week I received a couple of wines from Shared Notes Wines, the Sauvignon Blanc-focused project by the wife-and-husband winemaking team of Bibiana Gonzalez Rave and Jeff Pisoni. I’m reviewing both of the wines they make under that brand this week, and both are excellent, with the caveat that their packaging in big, heavy bottles is effectively a big middle finger to the environment. There’s just no reason to package wines like this in bottles that literally weigh more than the wine they contain. Jeff and Bibiana should know better. OK, off of my soapbox, I think I prefer the straight Sauvignon Blanc to their blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, at least in the 2025 vintage. I love that both are harvested to result in lean, snappy wines that still have some herbaceous qualities in addition to their sunny fruit. Not everyone will be on board with paying nearly $100 for a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, but those who are will find these wines enjoyable.
Chateau Montelena sent through their Sauvignon Blanc as well, and it seemed rather subdued in comparison to the Shared Notes wines, though it is also half the price.
This week I’m reviewing the Cuvée Esme Ann Chenin Blanc from Las Jaras Wines, which is one of my favorite California Chenins for its reductive, snappy, mouthwatering qualities. The fruit comes from the Junius Vineyard (formerly known as Norgard) in Mendocino County and is barrel-fermented and aged in oak, followed by 9 months in stainless steel.
This week I’m also reviewing another batch of wines from Geographic Wines, a project based in Portugal focused on making wines from many of the country’s different wine regions. This week I enjoyed their white blend from old vines in the Douro as well as their old vine red blend of more than 45 grape varieties from the same place. Sadly, these wines aren’t well distributed outside of Europe, so no buying links to offer to my readers for these. Also, the brand’s website is broken, so I can’t even give you somewhere to learn more about them.
I’ve got a couple of old-vine Zinfandels to recommend this week, from Limerick Lane Cellars, whose Marquis Zinfandel comes from a number of storied old-vine Zinfandel vineyards around Sonoma County and has a tremendous juicy lift with little trace of its substantial alcohol levels.
The 2023 Ridge Lytton Springs is a perennial favorite of mine for its complexity, impressive ageworthiness, and just generally mouthwatering offering of blue and black fruits. The 2023 vintage is an impressive edition of this wine that will likely be great for decades.
Speaking of the 2023 vintage, it also did good things for Tierra Roja wines in Napa’s Oakville AVA, where proprietor Linda Neal farms just over 4 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon. Neal worked as a vineyard manager for others in Napa for many years before deciding to focus exclusively on her own property. She makes just a single wine from the plot each year, and the 2023 vintage is certainly one of the best that winemaker Benoit Touquette has made for her.
The name Giacomo Borgogno is well known in Italy’s Piedmont region for having made Barolo since 1761, making it the oldest continuously operating producer in the region. As in many European countries, Italian wines are subject to tasting panels before they are approved to carry the Barolo DOCG designation. In 2005, Borgogno submitted two cask samples to the tasting commission, and one was rejected for not seeming typical in color, despite being made exactly the same as the one that had been accepted. In protest, Borgogno declassified the wine, and No Name Langhe Nebbiolo was born, bearing the designation “a protest label” against appellation bureaucracy. Since then, the Borgogno family has continued to deliberately declassify a portion of their Barolo production each year to make the wine. It is always excellent.
Notes on all these below.
Tasting Notes
2025 Shared Notes “Les Leçons des Maîtres” White Blend, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass—nearly colorless—this wine smells of passionfruit, green bell peppers, and honeysuckle. In the mouth, silky, salty flavors of chopped green herbs, green apple skin, and gooseberries have a nice brightness thanks to excellent acidity. A blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. 13.5% alcohol. 266 cases made. Comes in an unnecessarily heavy bottle weighing 1.54 kg when full. Score: around 9. Cost: $95. click to buy.
2025 Shared Notes “Les Pierres Qui Décident” Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apple, passionfruit, cut grass, and a hint of green bell peppers. In the mouth, candied green apple, passionfruit, and gooseberry flavors are electrically bright with excellent acidity and shot through with a hint of crushed nuts and alfalfa. Bright and juicy. A blend of fruit from Sonoma County (70%) and Napa County (30%). 12.87% alcohol. Comes in a nasty, heavy bottle weighing 1.63 kg when full. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $95. click to buy.
2025 Chateau Montelena Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, Napa, California
Palest greenish gold in color, this wine smells of lime zest, green apples, and white flowers. In the mouth, green apple and kiwi notes have a faint grassy quality to them, as well as decent acidity. 14.2% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $50. click to buy.
2023 Las Jaras “Cuvée Esme Anne” Chenin Blanc, Mendocino County, California
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of struck match, Asian pear, honeysuckle, and candied ginger. In the mouth, candied ginger, Asian pear, struck match, and wet pavement flavors are saline and bright with juicy acidity. Lean and bright, with lovely persistence. Barrel-fermented and aged in oak, followed by 9 months in stainless steel. Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $68.
2023 Geographic Wines “Inóspito – Vinhas Velhas Chão de Areia” Vinho Branco, Douro, Portugal
Pale yellow-gold in color, this wine smells of yellow plum, nectarine, and struck flint. In the mouth, salty flavors of unripe nectarines, pomelo zest, saffron, and dried herbs are bright and juicy with a hint of oaky nuttiness. Excellent acidity. A field blend of Rabigato, Viosinho, Gouveio, Códega de Larinho, Síria, and Folgasão. 12% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: ??
2023 Geographic Wines “Inóspito – Canais” Touriga Nacional, Douro, Portugal
Medium to dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black tea, black cherries, crushed peppercorns, and dried herbs. In the mouth, fleecy tannins wrap around a core of black cherries, black tea, and dried herbs. Very good acidity. The tannins gain weight and stiffness with time. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Geographic Wines “Inóspito – Vinhas Velhas Almendra” Red Blend, Douro, Portugal
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of black cherries, black plum, bergamot, earth, and dried flowers. In the mouth, smooth, suede-like tannins coat the mouth and surround a core of black cherries, black plum, currants, dried herbs, and wildflowers. Excellent acidity, lovely balance, and poise. Comes from a field blend of more than 45 different varieties planted in 1850. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2023 Ridge Vineyards “Lytton Springs” Red Blend, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California
Dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of blackberries, black pepper, boysenberries, and cocoa powder. In the mouth, blackberry pie and cocoa powder flavors are wrapped in powdery, mouth-coating tannins that linger with licorice, dried herbs, and sandalwood in the finish. Excellent acidity and balance. 14.4% alcohol. A blend of 76% Zinfandel, 14% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignan, 2% Alicante Bouschet, and 1% Mataro. Vineyard planted in 1905. 11,800 cases made. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $56. click to buy.
2023 Limerick Lane Cellars “Marquis” Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
Very dark garnet in color, this wine smells of blackberries, licorice, and flowers. In the mouth, juicy floral flavors of boysenberries, raspberries, and orange peel are wrapped in supple, athletic tannins. Great acidity. 15.1% alcohol. 350 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $69. click to buy.
2023 Giacomo Borgogno “No Name” Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Light to medium ruby in color with a hint of orange at the rim, this wine smells of strawberries, molasses, and dried flowers. In the mouth, fleecy tannins coat the mouth and stiffen slightly as flavors of strawberries, orange peel, dried herbs, and dried flowers move across the palate. Excellent bright acidity keeps things fresh, and the tannins remain supple and smooth. 14% alcohol. Comes in an unnecessarily heavy bottle weighing 1.53 kg when full. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $51. click to buy.
2023 Tierra Roja Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, California
Inky dark garnet in the glass, this wine smells of black cherries, licorice, and cola. In the mouth, juicy black cherries, cola, licorice, and chocolate-covered espresso beans are all wrapped in fleecy tannins. Excellent acidity keeps the wine from feeling too heavy and ripe, though it is quite rich, with sweet oak lingering in the finish. Barrel-fermented in 75% new French oak and then aged for 20 months. 250 cases made. 14.8% alcohol. Comes in a nasty, heavy bottle weighing 1.63 kg when full. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $215. click to buy.
