Tag: INAO

July 13, 2008 Ramblings and Rants, Wine News

Grand Jury Cru: Part Deux

I wrote a post over a year ago entitled Grand Jury Cru, which described the unfortunate plight of the wineries

June 7, 2008 Ramblings and Rants, Wine News

France Makes Progress Towards Rational Wine Laws

I can’t tell you how happy it makes me to write a piece acknowledging progress in France towards a rational

April 13, 2008 Ramblings and Rants, Wine News

Lest You Forget That Wine is Business…

As wine lovers, we all belong to a club whose entrance criteria include passion and romanticism. We return to wine

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Many years ago I decided that unlike wine which ca

Many years ago I decided that unlike wine which can so clearly evoke place, sake tasting notes were much more evocative of time - specifically a moment in time and all the atmosphere that comes with it. To wit: one of my favorite sakes this Dassai “23” reminds me of that moment when the year’s first snowfall has completely melted in the next day’s sun. Wonderfully silky notes of rainwater, malted milk, white flowers and cooked taro root linger beautifully with a great purity. The 23 here refers to the fact that the rice has been polished to 23% of its former mass, far in excess of the 50% required by its Daiginjo designation. This is a lot harder than it sounds, and quite a feat when it comes to sake. Sake seduction to be sure. NV Asahi Shuzo “Dassai 23 - Otter Festival” Junmai Daiginjo sake, Yamaguchi Prefecture, Japan.

About time to open this up and drink it, having pi

About time to open this up and drink it, having picked it up on my visit to the estate about 7 years ago. Starting to go to that place that Grüner goes with time, putting on heft and a touch of sweetness as butterscotch pudding and creme anglaise meet candied lemon peel, roiboos and jackfruit (flavor, not smell) in a creamy silky package that says, “come hither.” 2012 Fritsch “Schlossberg” Grüner Veltliner, Wagram, Austria

Sunset sniffing.

Sunset sniffing.

Branching futures

Branching futures

What stories do ancient mountains and their caves

What stories do ancient mountains and their caves tell? Stories of beginnings. It’s hard not to be inspired drinking one of the world’s most ancient grape varieties made in one of the places that winemaking began. And when made with such grace, so much the better. Blackberry and licorice, plum and a touch of dark earth, with lingering notes of candied fennel seeds in the finish. Gorgeous acidity and a finely textured skein of tannins. Armenia’s going through a hard time right now. I salute the resilience of her people. 2017 Zorah “Karasi” Areni Noir, Armenia.

Fig and cocoa powder, prunes and lavender. Somewha

Fig and cocoa powder, prunes and lavender. Somewhat ripe, but with that herbal edge, also fresh. Persistent and long, with supple tannins. A blend of Cinsault, Grenache, and Cabernet. Drink Lebanese! They’re in a bad way these days. And never forget the spirit of Serge Hochar. 2016 Château Musar “Hochar Pere et fils” Red Wine, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon.

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