Episode 359 of I’ll Drink to That! was released recently. It features Nicoletta Boca of the San Fereolo winery in the Piemonte of Italy. San Fereolo is within the Dogliani area of the Piemonte, where the specialty is Dolcetto.
San Fereolo is one of a handful of wineries in the world that have a special way with Dolcetto. While many might consider Dolcetto a light wine, perfect for filling in the gaps between more serious offers, the evidence from San Fereolo defeats impression. Instead, they are wines of reflection that will reward attention and time. In owner Nicoletta Bocca’s view, the quality and ageability of her wines is owed to the various terroirs of her particular area, and it is fascinating to hear her speak about approaching the blend of a wine at the vineyard level. She looks for parcels that might compliment the finished wine, instead of trying to shape what she receives in some other way counter to the vineyards. That might all amount to a nice sentiment if the wines weren’t so good, but as they are tremendous there is likely something to be said for her approach. More amazingly, these are wines that can be purchased cheaply indeed, and one of her prized Dolcetto retails for less than $16 a bottle. Of course this kind of pricing is appealing to consumers, but Nicoletta also explains the downside of what it implies for the region she lives and works in. If you want a real insider’s tour of the Piemonte, beyond the big names, Nicoletta should be at the top of your list of confidants. Certainly she speaks her mind in this interview.
This episode also includes a thoughtful Warm Up from Erin on the hierarchy of grape varieties.
I’ll Drink to That is the world’s most listened-to wine podcast, hosted by Levi Dalton. Levi has had a long career working as a sommelier in some of the most distinguished and acclaimed dining rooms in America. He has served wine to guests of Restaurant Daniel, Masa, and Alto, all in Manhattan. Levi has also contributed articles on wine themes to publications such as The Art of Eating, Wine & Spirits magazine, Bon Appetit online, and Eater NY. Check out his pictures on Instagram and follow him on Twitter: @levi_opens_wine