Hello and welcome to this week’s dig through the pile of wine samples that show up asking to be tasted. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week seems to be Italian-themed, as most of the wines below are from Italy, and the two that aren’t are Italian-inspired. Those two happen to be a couple of the latest releases from Massican, the white-wine-only project in Napa that’s now part of the Gallo family of wines. That means that proprietor and winemaker Dan Petroski gets to source grapes from anywhere Gallo grows them, giving him a wide range of options for making his wine, as well as increasing production levels. That’s why you’ll find both his Pinot Grigio and his Gemina wines now simply California-designated, rather than with more specific appellations. But don’t let that dissuade you from buying them they’re tasty as ever, and I particularly like the latest vintage of Gemina.
I’ve never heard of the Tuscan co-op winery Societá Usiglian del Vescovo before, but they’re in the town of Palaia, about 40 kilometers southwest of Florence. Their blend of Chardonnay and Viognier is a nice melange of the two grapes and a fitting ode to the Broom flower after which it is named.
Next up I’ve got a bunch of excellent-value Italian rosés to recommend to you, starting with the Kòmaros from Garafoli, the century-old producer in the Marche region. They make a lot of good wine, but I’m particularly fond of their rosés which are always delightful. The Kòmaros has everything you want in a rosé – crispness, fruit, texture, and refreshment.
Masseria Li Veli is perhaps one of the best-known producers in Italy’s Puglia region and a standard-bearer for quality there. Things get pretty warm down in the heel of the boot, which is why you need to drink a lot of rosé. I’ve got three from Masseria Li Veli to recommend this week, but I think my favorite is the Torrerose, both because of its flavor, and because, well, it’s white Zinfandel, but not. In Puglia, they call it Primitivo, but it’s Zinfandel for sure (or Tribidrag, if you want to be precise). It’s a quintessential rosé and a steal at $22. Masseria’s Susumaniello is a rosé made from a super rare grape of the same name, and very interesting. The winery’s newest rosé of Negroamaro, called Sybar is pretty good too.
We’re going to finish up this week with some serious Barolos from GD Vajra, and from the estate that they manage Luigi Baudana. Of the three gorgeous Barolos from Vajra I tried this week I think my favorite is the Ravera, which bowled me over with its perfume and grace, but the Coste di Rose and Bricco delle Viole was pretty fantastic, too. The Baudana, too was exceptional, with a lovely brightness and supple structure that made it delicious now and likely to age beautifully in the future.
Notes on all these wines below.
Tasting Notes
2024 Massican Pinot Grigio, California
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of pears and lemon pith. In the mouth, crisp and bright flavors of pear, Asian pear, lemon pith, and a hint of white flowers have a nice juiciness thanks to excellent acidity and a surprisingly stony quality. 13% alcohol. Closed with a screwcap. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $30. click to buy.
2024 Massican “Gemina” White Blend, California
Light blonde in the glass, this wine smells of apples, grapefruit pith, and a touch of chamomile. In the mouth, extremely juicy flavors of lemon peel, lemon oil, unripe apples, and dried herbs have a mouthwatering quality to them as well as a faint stony texture. Very tasty. A blend of 49% Falanghina, 45% Greco, and 6% Fiano. 12.4% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $33. click to buy.
2023 Usiglian Del Vescovo “Il Ginestraio” White Blend, Tuscany, Italy
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of candied lemon peel, vanilla, and a hint of white peaches. In the mouth, bright lemon and peach flavors have a decent crispness to them, thanks to very good acidity. There’s a strong vanilla note that lingers in the finish along with lemon curd. A blend of Chardonnay and Viognier. Certified organic. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $20.
2024 Garofoli “Kòmaros” Rosé of Montepulciano, Marche, Italy
Light peachy pink in the glass, this wine smells of cherries and strawberries. In the mouth, bright cherry fruit flavors mix with a touch of dried herbs and a hint of orange peel. Crisp and bright, with a faint chalky texture. SQNPI certified sustainable. 12% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $16. click to buy.
2024 Masseria Li Veli “Torrerose” Rosé of Primitivo, Salento, Puglia, Italy
Pale baby pink in the glass, this wine smells of watermelon and flowers. In the mouth, crisp and bright watermelon, watermelon rind, dried herbs, and a hint of citrus peel are silky and bright and mouthwatering thanks to excellent acidity. Serve this to your guests and then, after they rave about it, tell them it’s white Zinfandel, just Italian style. 12.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2024 Masseria Li Veli Rosé of Susumaniello, Salento, Puglia, Italy
Pale baby pink in color, this wine smells of flowers and strawberries. In the mouth, strawberry and cranberry flavors have a faint salinity and lovely silky texture as notes of citrus peel and white flowers linger in the finish. Sensual and tasty. Susumaniello is an ancient grape variety from the Brindisi region of Puglia. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $26. click to buy.
2024 Masseria Li Veli “Sybar” Rosé of Negroamaro, Salento, Puglia, Italy
Pale baby pink in color with a hint of copper, this wine smells of orange peel and blood orange. In the mouth, orange zest and blood orange flavors mix with dried herbs and a touch of crabapple that gives a faint sourish tinge to the finish. Excellent acidity. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2021 G.D. Vajra “Coste di Rose” Barolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Medium ruby in the glass, this wine smells of strawberries, a hint of fresh flower petals, and a touch of smoky road tar. In the mouth, wonderfully supple tannins wrap around a core of strawberry, earth, sawdust, and dried herbs. Notes of fresh and dried flowers linger in the finish with a brisk acidity. A beautiful wine. SQNPI certified sustainable. Certified organic. 14% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $85. click to buy.
2021 G.D. Vajra “Bricco delle Viole” Barolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Light to medium ruby in color, this wine smells of strawberry jam, fresh flowers, and forest floor. In the mouth, bright citrusy notes of strawberry, dried herbs, sour cherry, and road dust have a mouthwatering acidity and muscular tannic structure. The tannins are quite fine-grained and remain very supple, as the cheeks pucker from the citrus peel brightness of the wine. Excellent. SQNPI certified sustainable. Certified organic. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $105. click to buy.
2021 G.D. Vajra “Ravera” Barolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Light to medium ruby in color, this wine smells of strawberries, freshly turned earth, and cherries. In the mouth, intensely perfumed flavors of strawberry and cherry are shot through with citrus peel, dried herbs, and flower petals as muscular, fine-grained tannins envelop the palate and begin to squeeze. The acidity here has such freshness that it almost crosses over into mintiness. A poised and regal wine built for the long haul. SQNPI certified sustainable. Certified organic. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 9.5. Cost: $105. click to buy.
2021 Luigi Baudana “Baudana” Barolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy
Light to medium ruby in color, this wine smells of berries and forest floor with a hint of smokiness. In the mouth, incredibly bright and juicy flavors of citrus peel, tiny wild strawberries, forest floor, road dust, and dried herbs are mouthwatering thanks to excellent acidity. The tannins are extremely supple and stiffen only slightly as they coat the mouth. Notes of dried herbs linger in the finish. Excellent. SQNPI certified sustainable. Certified organic. 14% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $105. click to buy.
